The Aftermarket Lights FAQ
compiled & edited by Kristian #562
Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.

If you're looking for information on Power Draw see Electrical Misc FAQs &/or Electrical Misc Qs GS

• Bulbs
• Auxiliary Light FAQs/Installation & Mounting Reports
• Taillights
• Turn Signals (For Signal Minders refer the Aftermarket Instrumentation FAQ)
• Modulators
• Helmet Lights?

For Installation Tips & Photos of Lights on the F650GS/Dakar click the Link
For General OEM Information - Headlights, OEM Bulb Installation Tips, Headlight Problems
For Reviews on Other Web Pages See Lighting: Other Sources & Reviews
For More information on "How many Lights can I run", "Flashers Don't Flash" and similar Q's see the Electrical Misc FAQs
For Problems with the Rear Brake Light See Brake Light

Before we start, a few facts :
1. The stated output of the CLASSIC alternator is 280 watts.
2. The stated output of the GS/Dakar alternator is 400 watts. The FI type needs more power to run its various electronics, but still has more to spare (unlikely that you will ever flash the main beam, blow the horn, cycle the ABS, turn the heated grips on at the same time).  Andy #982

And a Word of Caution:
Some found that mounting driving lights close to the indicators makes the indicators "invisible" to on coming traffic with the lights turned on.

BULBS

• Replacement Headlight Bulbs
• For Brake Light Bulbs See the Brake Light FAQ

Replacement Headlight Bulbs

• Generic Bulbs and Comments

• Replacing HL Bulb pointers

• Rewiring the High Beam

• Headlight Plug Meltdown

• HID Lights

• PIAA

• PLAZMA XENON BULBs

• Philips Vision Plus H4 headlight.

Generic Bulbs and Comments

• I run a 100/130 W headlight with a 20W pilot light to save the battery. If I run a weeks worth of short trips on the headlight (50 miles in 10 trips plus 4 nights and 5 days on the alarm), the alarm will get get the battery down to 11.8V. You only get a couple of chances to turn the engine at this power level. A 30 mile ride with the light and heated grips on still restores the battery to 12.5 V plus. If you are doing short trips with the extra lights you might want to get a smart changer and/or a voltmeter fitted. Andy Leeds UK #982.

• Driving Lights. You don't need to spend a lot of money. I got some lights with great reflectors and H3 55watt Halogen bulbs for $19 at Auto Zone. (The bulbs are the most important feature, IMO) They light the road just as good as the PIAA, and a little better than the Motolights. (Their reflectors aren't the best) I had to make my own bracket ($8) and wire my own relay and switch ($5), but well worth the money saved. Michael #883.

• Quartz halogen bulbs run hot, VERY HOT. There is a reason for that. The reason is so that when you turn it off, the envelope ("glass") is so hot that the evaporated tungsten settles back onto the filament instead of on the inside of the glass. That is why H-4 bubs last so much longer than regular lite bubs. Regular one turn yellow from the tungsten on the inside of the glass. The fact that the tungsten IS inside the glass contributes to filament failure, too. DO NOT TOUCH ... finger oil on the quartz will make a weak spot, leading to a micro-fissure, leading to the loss of the iodide gas (a member of the halogen family on the periodic table of the elements), leading to bulb failure. So do NOT touch the glass of your bulbs with your fingers as you install them. Too late? Use a little isopropyl alcohol to clean it. And use a tissue or cloth between your greasy paws and the bulb. Flash #412 (CO)

• I wore rubber gloves when I opened the package and placed the bulb. I was also _real_ careful when installing the bulb not to touch the bulb. For that reason, it may very well be worth it to remove the fairing for installing the bulb. it is quite possible you will drop or accidentally touch the bulb whilst fiddling blindly underneath the dash while placing the bulb. On my bike, the clip just will not stay put; since I could not actually get in a place where I could see under the fairing _and_ grab the clip, I invariably knocked it loose. The whole thing seems like it would be just fine if that clip where somehow permanently retained on the housing. Also it will be damn near impossible to not touch at least something with the bulb as you insert it. A piece of greasy dirt or some other scheme might end up causing the same effect Sir Flash mentions. NormJ #473

• If I remember the clip fits into a set of retaining notches. To remove it you push the clip like you are trying to clamp the bulb in even tighter, squeeze the two ends towards each other to clear the retaining notches and then while keeping the ends together you allow the clip to release past the notches. It is possible to just catch one side of the clip in a retaining notch. I guess its also possible to break the notch off, but it would surprise me. Installation is the reverse of course. Chris in Santa Cruz, CA #782

• I think Chris makes sense but I don't remember exactly how the clip fastens, and it's almost impossible to actually see properly without taking the housing apart. I'll try to take a look tomorrow. I'd have to admit that I have to get the angle of my elbow and entire body exactly right to grasp the clip with my fingers. I have to reach under the housing with my left hand even though I am right handed. When you get it right, it should snap right in. I make a point of orienting the new bulb in my hand exactly as I removed the old bulb. NO WAY I could do it right handed, even though it's my better hand, as my fingers are too large to get at the clip. Maybe there's a metal tab that is bent, or the spring is bent. Possible your bulb was not properly seated? It only fits one way for all the tabs to match, and then has to be fully inserted for the clip to catch. Regarding the same operation in the GS, I have no idea. Todd #389.

• I went to NAPA, Part number Wagner Lighting #BP1210/H4 for $12.00 . 80/100 watt with no problems. Make sure you have a good clean connection w/plug & Clean where base seats in housing. Don't touch the glass bulb it self or if you do clean with alcohol & cotton ball. Dave #365.

• A 100/130 draws exactly that on low/high. PIAA claim that their Super White bulbs put out the equivalent of an 85w bulb, but draw only 55/65 watts. Even still, those bulbs are listed as 55/65, since that's what they draw. I didn't replace my 55/65 PIAA Super White ($34) with another when it burned out after only one year. Instead, I used a Sylvania bulb that they claim is 20% brighter than regular bulbs (same wattage). it was only $9 at pep boys and I couldn't tell any difference from the PIAA. Mark #403.

• The reflector does have an ENORMOUS impact, but a truly higher wattage bulb will produce more light. Not a bogus higher-wattage-equivalent, ("our 55 watt bulb makes 85 watts of light;" light is not measured in watts). I want to swap the stock 55/65 for a PIAA 80/80, and the light output should be greater. I recently swapped my car headlights 9006 55watt bulbs low beams for 9005 65 watt bulbs and the light output is much greater (I also used low glare bulbs so as not to blind oncoming drivers). Mason #631

• I just looked at my 97. With my steering at full right lock I can see the bulb and the white plastic ring it is locked into. The metal spring/clip pivots at one end and its two ends hook into retaining notches on the other (riders right on my bike). It is plastic, so it could break. New headlight? Chris in Santa Cruz, CA #782

• I think I saw (Andy) saying some time ago that a simple upgrade to the lighting system would be to change the pilot bulb to 20w and the main bulb to 100/80 and use the pilot for day-time riding. I just spoke to Motorworks and they say that the 20w bulb will melt the plastic headlamp housing (maybe it’s just the pre 2000 classic). In any event they said that the 80 watt low beam used constantly will not drain the battery. Pat#1210 '94 Classic F

• Motorworks sold me the lamps and said they'd be fine! They were right, its been run for 16000 miles or so with the same lamps and holders. The headlight is 130/100W and it does drain the battery if you are below 3000 rpm for any length of time, you see it light up more when you rev the engine above idle. 100/80 might be better. I'd bet one of the new Motorworks guys is confusing the classic with the GS. The GS has BMW not Aprillia wiring, so you can bet its cheap, nasty and under specified just like the R series. Andy Leeds UK #982

Replacing HL Bulb pointers
NormJ #473

Okay, per mason 631's request, here is a brief set of pointers regarding changing the headlight bulb. The reason this may be relevant to anyone is that the little manual that comes with the bike fails to mention how satanically nasty the little clip that holds the bulb in place is. If it were manufactured with some kind of permanent mounting to the white plastic ring on the housing, it would be cake; instead, the tight quarters under the fairing and the clip's demonic desire to pop loose of its own accord make the job a hassle.

1. If you have the time and are _real_ concerned for protecting your new bulb from being accidentally touched and/or soiled, go ahead and remove the fairing per the FAQ. it will take longer but may be easier; you will have better access to the headlight assembly.
   
   I did not remove the fairing because one of the crush-nuts (or whatever they are called) that holds my screen on is nearly impossible to reinstall. I am out of valium and my allergy medication is preventing me from drinking the amount of beer it would take me to calm down after the nightmare of reinstalling that little bugger.

2. Pull off the 3-prong wire plug to the light. this may be easiest from below and in front of bike.

3. GENTLY begin removing the rubber stopper that seals/protects the back of the bulb and the reflector. do this by starting from the outside circle, gently loosening one section at a time, moving around until the stopper feels "loose". then gently pull it straight back. it has three slots that match the prongs of the bulb. you can put your thumb on the prongs and pull back on the stopper, so that you are not yanking on the whole assembly.

4. Now, take a peak at the retainer clip that is holding the bulb in place. It is evil. Learn to fear it. It is released by pinching the two right ends together so they both release from little hooks to which they "stick" due to the spring action of the clip itself.
   
   On the left side is why the clip sucks. When the tension of the clip is released, it wants to move left and back, thus coming free of the "notch" in the white assembly that holds it. It is reinserting the clip into its left side "notch" that is keeping anti-anxiety drug makers in the black; it just doesn't want to go back in _and_ stay in place while you close it over your new bulb.
   
   SO TRY NOT TO DISLODGE IT FROM THE LEFT SIDE NOTCH!!
   
   Gently squeeze the two right ends together and keep tension towards the right of the bike as you try and swing the clip open.

5. Try to do as little jostling as possible when you pull the bulb out. It should come straight back and out. You are quite likely to knock the clip loose right here. If so, savor the moment and trot-out those seldom-used curses you keep filed away for special occasions. Stick the new bulb in keeping the same caution. I found this process to be easiest from the right side of the bike, with the bars turned full left.
   
   I wore rubber gloves and moved wires out of the way to keep from fouling the bulb glass.

6. If you haven't dislodged the clip by this point, run out to the nearest 7-11 and buy a lottery ticket. Otherwise, turn the bars full right and stand on the left of the bike. Insert the clip's mid-section into the notch and push it right until you hear it "click". This is easy. What sucks is not knocking it loose while you try to close it over the bulb. I did this by clicking it in the notch, then while still on the left side of the bike, gently folding it over the bulb until it was fully in place but not clipped.

7. CAREFULLY turn the bars full left and move to the right of the bike. While pulling the clip towards you (to the bike's right), pinch them together and push them forward until they seem to fit in their proper place. Then release them. For me, it took about 5 tries for this step; when it finally worked, it was by allowing one side of the clip to seat first, then doing the next. And in the meantime the clip might very well pop out of the left side of the housing

8. I cleaned the prongs on the bulb and the socket at this point.

9. Reinstall the rubber gasket with the utmost in care.

10. Put the plug back on.
    
    I sincerely hope that my technique was just dumb-ass from the beginning and that no one has ever or will ever have the same problems changing the damn bulb.

UPDATE:

A few months back I posted an anguished account of my severe difficulties replacing the head lamp bulb. the stupid clip kept coming off and was impossible to reseat. Some joker replied that s/he had zero trouble replacing bulb and that it took only 90 seconds to accomplish. I wanted to track that inmate down and fill their gas tank with bud light. try running your bike on that schwag. Well, parked on the grass in the windy plains of S.D., I replaced my headlight bulb in about 97 seconds with no hassles. That damned clip stayed put no fuss no muss. Go figure.
 

Rewiring the High Beam?

Q. Has anybody rewired their high beam so that the low beam stays on when you turn on the high beam? Testing with that little high beam flasher switch seems to indicate a lot better overall light coverage with this setup. Hard to do? Good? Bad?

• The heating effect on the lamp will be interesting. Andy Leeds UK #982

• Not sure it's a good idea. In addition to Andy's comment, the load on the wiring and switch might be a bit of a strain. I'd consider using a heavier ground wire on the headlight plug also. Todd #389

• Seems to me some folks had issues with the 100 watt high beam bulbs melting stuff. High and low together would be 115 watts and even hotter. YMMV. Harl #380

Headlight Plug Meltdown

• The same thing happened to me last month on a 99 F650 while I was riding on I-580 in Richmond, CA at night. The plug was too far gone to fix and I had to have the bike towed. I agree with Randy that this is another area like the original chain, seat covers, etc. where BMW skimped on the quality of components. The next day, a local shop (City Cycle Werkes in San Francisco) soldered another better H4 plug on for $35.00. Kale #557.

• I found a melted plug when I bought the used 1999 model. The bulb had been replaced with a larger wattage lamp, and I'd guess that was the problem. Dealer replaced for ~$40.00 including the part, Joeg #1102

• If you never had to mess with the headlight bulb before, it's possible that the (otherwise perfectly good) plug eventually vibrated loose over the years and made poor contact, finally overheating. That's one plug I make a point of pushing on regularly to make sure it's well seated. Because it can get wet, it doesn't hurt to make sure it has a drop of grease or lube to prevent corrosion also. Todd #389

• I'm away on a weekend trip when the hi-beam indicator light comes on during the middle of the day... drat! But, being prepared, I'm carrying a spare bulb so I'm not too worried. When I get to my destination and reach under the dash to swap out the presumably burned-out bulb, however, I found instead that the plastic plug that connects to the three light bulb prongs had melted down on one side. So, it's not the bulb but the plug that is the culprit. I was able to get the headlight working again by using electrical tape to patch the suspect connector back into place on the plug, but I'd like to fix and get to the root of the problem. Any idea what would make one of those little metal connectors in the headlight plug overheat like that? I checked the FAQ and didn't see anything similar addressed. Also, does anyone know the part number and cost for replacing that little plug? Even better, does anyone know of a lower-cost alternative part in case typical OEM pricing is in effect? Ken #784

• Typical cause is (A) overwatt aftermarket headlight bulb, or (B) poor headlight bulb/socket connection (corrosion or loose connector). Both conditions end up pulling more current than the wiring/socket is rated for. Get a H4 replacement headlight socket at Pep Boys, NAPA or equivalent car place. Marty #436

• Believe what you want, but shorted cheap plug, made in China (probably) or some other third world country is culprit. Ground and hot wire have mated, surprisingly without blowing fuse in process. Who the hell wired these bikes without fuse circuit for headlight? I'm guessing about missing fuse, but fuse would go way before socket meltdown, if one were in same line!  Randy748

High Intensity Discharge  (HID)

See HID by Will England for a good review.

• There is a lot of discussion about lights: adding aftermarket lights, increase bulb wattage, fabricating or buying light bars, PIAA's, Hella's , Motolights and the like. What about HID? More light with less wattage. Very durable because there is no filament, and long lasting bulbs. I have a friend that did a (HIDS4Less) conversion on an RT and he has nothing but positive comments about it. Any feed back would be appreciated. Steve#1059

• There was a recent post about putting HID's on a VFR on VFRDiscussion.com. The poster included before and after photos. The light was way brighter and much whiter. BUT, you have to put very large ballists somewhere to get the lights to work, and the cost (without labor) was over $1,100! The ballists are about the size of two CD cases stacked up. Larry

• Here is something from Baja Designs' site: What is HID. The HID bulb uses an arc of light similar to high intensity stadium lighting. Unlike stadium lights, however, this new lighting system uses extremely high voltage (18-25 thousand volts) to initiate the arc so that no warm up time is required. It produces a light measuring 4100 deg. Kelvin compared to 2800 deg. Kelvin produced by a typical halogen filament lamp. The results are a daylight white/blue light that produces more than 3 times the amount of lumens as compared to halogen light, while consuming only about 50 watts of power. Once the bulb is up to full brightness (about 1 second), the controller then provides a steady 90 volts to maintain the arc. HID lamps use a controller and igniter to provide the very high voltages needed to start and maintain the HID plasma arc. HID lamps produce daylight quality light and brightness, far outperforming conventional quartz halogen lighting systems. Without the use of a filament, these lamps fire an electric charge at 18,000 volts between two electrodes encased in a xenon gas filled bulb. The results are revolutionary, consuming much less energy, significantly reducing heat generation, yet providing outstanding brightness and durability. This is great news for motorcycles, because typically they don't produce all that much lighting power to begin with, and because the bulb has no filament, vibration is not a detriment to its operating life (2000 hours). Baja Designs has a site with good info on HID lights. Here's a turnkey product for $450. Flash 412 (CO)

• Pseudo HID light bulb: Some time ago I've bought two "fake" cheap HID H4 bulbs that were advertised on EBay. Not the same, but very similar to the one advertised here. The bulbs had a higher wattage than stock (100/80W, I think, versus 60/55W of the stock bulb) and my idea was to replace the short life expensive PIAA that the previous owner had left in the bike. Somebody asked me to post my experience, and here it is:
  
  Lifespan:
  The first of the two, burned out after two weeks or so, the other survived more than a month. I haven't used the bike since then and the bulb is still there. I don't believe they last much. But it seems that the PIAA have the same problems with the difference that these bulbs are $10 a pair...
  
  Battery:
  At that time I installed the bulb, I was commuting 20miles a day and because of the short trips I didn't realize that my battery was overcharging and drying out because of the higher wattage (see the FAQ for a solution to this problem). When it was time to head home and I started riding 15h/day the battery became a problem and I had to refill the cells every day, but I managed to complete the trip. Being on the road, far from the FAQ and having done OK with the bulb on commuting trips I failed to find correlation between the overcharging and the new bulb. Mea culpa. The fix on the FAQ should solve this problem.
  
  Visibility:
  The whiter bulb IS more visible and give you the "impression" that you see more. These pictures were taken without flash, with a digital camera and they don't show much difference (in particular given the difference in Wattage), BUT what your eyes see IS different.
   

  Philips H4 bulb (60/55W)
  "Pseudo" HID Plasma bulb (100/80W)

  
  On the highway, having the impression of a better illumination AND being more visible may be of some advantage. Personally I felt safer and more comfortable riding at night. However, I had a terrible experience when going off road. In the same evening I was almost falling three times. The reason is that the light is so powerful that it blinds you when you look at objects that are too close. In the dirt I had to look for holes and stones close to the wheel and with that light it was almost impossible to have a good visual (Well, I could have slowed down a little, but this is beyond the point of this discussion....).
  
  Conclusions:
  I had enough. As soon as I get the bike out the winter storage (still snow in Boston) I'll remove the bulb and switch to the Philips. If anybody is interested in doing more tests, the bulb will be available FOC. BUT I am thinking to give a try to whiter bulb having stock wattage...  gim  '97 F650, Waltham, MA.

• I also think a lot of H-4 housings are made of plastic that won't handle the heat of HID bulbs. One reason the conversion kits cost so much is the housing needs to be replaced. David #476, '99 F650.

• Next.
   

PIAA

• I changed to the PIAA Extreme White bulb--a bit costly but does seem to improve the light and draws the same power as stock. Others have done this also and it seems to work ok. Bill No.391

• I changed to the PIAA almost right away. I'll echo Bill in L.V. seems to be better and a bit of cool purplish blue tint. I went with the HID version, bought it at the dealer for like $45. Have fun getting in there to change it, will take a bit of patience (least it did me). I was the moron who didn't unscrew the fairing. Duh, that's why I was out there for a half-hour changing that thing. I was very proud of my dexterity though. Colbster of So Cal

• My PIAA Super White seemed whiter, but I don't believe it was actually brighter. the $32 bulb lasted 1 year. My PIAA auxiliary driving lights light up the night, a whole other level of brightness. but whether or not the charging system can handle the extra load with long term use, I don't know. I only use them occasionally when I really need them and I've had to replace one voltage regulator after 3 years. Mark #403

• I recently replaced a Philips 60/55watt for a PIAA 80/80watt and have found the difference to very noticeable, both day and night. Some people have been using 100/130watt bulbs without problems, but I didn't want to risk that. And if you unscrew the fairing (easy, see the FAQ), changing bulbs is a snap. Mason #631 - 97ST

• Hate to say it, but my PIAA Super White burned out pretty fast. I have the original back in. Chris in Santa Cruz, CA #782.

• Flash was right-on about the $45 PIAA replacement bulb. First, it was whiter and brighter at short range; i.e., it lit up signs better, but at 70 mph at night I was dangerously out riding even the high beam. my friend's $9 Napa special cast a beam at least 40% farther. Second, the low beam filament pooped the linens on me after just 9 weeks. And it died in heavy fog and rain in southern mn ... folks were clicking their lights at me and I had no idea why (deer up ahead? speed trap?) until I leaned over the bike and noticed no headlight. (it worked when I pulled out of hotel 1 hour before). Rode under high beam to a mom-pop parts store and for $8.05 out the door I replaced it. If you are considering the PIAA bulb that is marketed as twice the power of the stock 12v 60/55, I suggest you buy a NAPA special and spend the rest on beer ... it would be safer.

• I've mentioned way before this post that switching headlight bulb only as an alternative route to take. I DID and have no problems with TON more light than stock. 100/130 is what I use (PIAA bulb) and it has provided nearly the light of add on PIAA's. I've had both and have the experience of the add-ons and have no problem with the light provided by my single bulb switch over. Some have mentioned heat as a danger to higher 100/130 wattage, but you have to prove it to me. Mine stays COOL to touch. I'm not just touching the glass, but reaching behind and touching the reflector and plug in, where one would expect more heat and damage, "if" it were to occur. No heat on my '99 model! One year without any problems and no comparison to stock headlight and a much simpler solution than the expensive add on PIAA's. The PIAA bulbs are not cheap either, at 40$ US. My 100/130 is PIAA. Randy748/Calif

• When I got my F650 last year, I dropped in a PIAA replacement bulb in the headlight. It is WAY more bright than the stock bulb, and is a "cut-and-paste" replacement. I think it was about $35.00 Highly recommended -- especially if you do any night riding, and there's nothing sticking out the sides of your bike or to shear off when you go off roading. BillW#930.

• I have already installed them. They look OK to me, brighter than the Sylvania. I think the beam has a different shape, but I am not sure. Hi doesn't look much different from low. I don't have time/tools to do a better comparison now. Don't know how long they will last, but anyway, they are cheap (and with 1 yr warranty). gim (orange '97ST)..

• Flash was right on PIAA bulb. Yep mine burned out in about the same time frame maybe less on the low beam only. Expensive lesson now I run a 10.95 special from "other guys" that puts out the same light, maybe more. Hey live and learn right! tom1089 s.c. pa.

• I replaced the stock headlight bulb with a $40 PIAA a little while ago. This evening I had dinner with some friends and noticed that my low beam had burnt out. Doesn't like it lasted very long. Do PIAA bulbs normally have a high price and short life? I really noticed a big improvement with the PIAA but can I afford the $40 every couple of months? What other alternatives have any of you found? Dave # 717

PLAZMA XENON BULBs

• I'd say stay away from them. The blue lights are a bit of a sham in that they claim to get more light output from the same wattage, but, in reality, you get less light because these bulbs are painted blue - putting a filter on the light is just going to reduce output. If you really want the blue HID look (you could argue that they increase conspicuousness), then don't buy some no-name eBay offering - buy from a reputable manufacturer as quality can vary greatly. The add you reference is full of half-truths and misleading statements anyway. Stay away from the temptation to use a higher wattage bulb as well - unless you are prepared to add heavier wiring and a relay. Even then, your housing/reflector/lens may not be able to take the additional heat. The consensus advice for better bulbs seems to be Philips Vision Plus. You can buy them here. Of course the only way to get a significant amount of additional light on the road may be to add auxiliary lighting. Here are a couple of good links for you that debunk the 55W=80W, etc. BS: Link 1; Link 2. MichaelC #941

• MIchealC's advice is good and his comments are accurate. Blue "HID look" bulbs are a complete waste, and the Philips bulb is widely considered to be excellent. While several Inmates have been using higher wattage bulbs (as high as 100/130) with no problems, you are taking a risk. If you want a blue-ish bulb that is not heavily filtered, and are comfortable running an over-watt bulb, check the PIAA bulb link below. The PIAA bulbs should be better quality than the no-name bulbs, the output should be significantly greater than stock, they are blue, but not extremely so, and at 80/80 watts should be less risky than higher wattage alternatives. Mason #631.

• I tried something called "Xenon" 80/60w (or similar) but supposedly much brighter and with a hint of blue (the blue is what I wanted, to be better seen), though around here people print whatever they like on packages, and it *did* melt my socket. Stick to well-reputed manufacturers. Aleksander in Dubai 98ST.

Philips Vision Plus H4 headlight.

• The 650GS has one H4 bulb (dual intensity for hi/low). There is a second smaller bulb that serves as the parking light. I'm using one now. They sell them in packs of two so you'll have a spare or one to sell. BradG 1002

• Same on the classic. one dual filament headlamp, one 10 watt parking lamp. Mark #403

• I've been running one in '99 classic for several months now w/out problem. I didn't notice too much difference. It's a bit brighter, but nothing that would knock you over. Then again, I've got a set of PIAAs which I use frequently so I may not be in the best position to judge. T-boy #456 (Wash., DC)

• I've had the Vision Plus H4 in my '99 Classic for about six months now with no problems. It is noticeably brighter than the stock H4 bulb. Bob#550. I use a Philips "Vision Plus" H4 bulb in my '99. It's noticeably brighter than the stock bulb, but draws the same current. I thought changing the bulb was easy. I've no experience with PIAAs or Motolights. Bob#550 (Olympia WA).

• I have used Philips Vision plus and they are much brighter. Here is an online site to order them. These guys are good and fast and no shipping charges. http://www.autolamps-online.com/halogen/index.htm. Dick #420

• These bulbs are only sold in pairs, and I just ordered a pair, so if you're still in CT I'd be happy to sell you one bulb for half of my cost. Just so you know, they're not DOT approved for use in the USA. James #523 CT

• This is the one I use: http://www.powerbulbs.com/pvph4.htm. Jason#1027 UT

• I also have the powerbulb, and like the extra light. It does fit a bit loose in my housing, but that has not been a problem. 99 classic. Paul #813.

• I have used the 100/130w H4 bulb inn my 99 Classic F650 for the past 6000 miles or so. I live in Eastern PA, the temperature here is up to the mid 90's this summer, I took trips up to 4 hours of continuous city traffic riding with the headlight on low beam all the time, never melted any wires or plastic housing for the headlight. Cat0020 in PA #1056.

• I use Phillips "Vision Plus" bulbs and really like them a lot. You can get them from http://www.powerbulbs.com and if you tell John you're with the chain gang, they might still give you a special deal. When I got mine, I got them shipped from UK to USA for free. Another plus is that they come in pairs, so you have one for another bike (if you have one) or you have a spare. David #476, '99 F650.

Auxiliary Light FAQs/Installation & Mounting Reports

• General PIAA/Motolights/HELLA Auxiliary Light FAQs
• Report: Light Installations for PIAA Lights
• Report: F650ST Driving Light  55W Cyber White Remote
• Report: Hella Optilux Driving Light Install

PIAA/Motolights/HELLA FAQs

• How do I install them?
• Do I really need a Relay?
• What about Alternatives for Mounting them?
• Will they overload my Alternator?
• Why do I keep Blowing Fuses after Installing them?
• Are they any Good. Opinions?

Q. How do I install them?

I'm putting the PIAA lights on my '99 F. The instructions say I need to find a wire to tap in to to be a power source for the switch. Suggestions? I don't have a voltmeter or wiring diagram of the bike.

A1. I connected it to high beam positive wire. Marko

A2. If you use the high beam tap, you will only be able to run the PIAAs with the high beams on. The benefit to that is being able to control the light with the high beam selector (i.e. left thumb). the downside is you can't run the low beams and the PIAAs. I added a second switch during my installation as an afterthought. It's a three-line water-proof switch mounted in the dash. The PIAA relay input goes to the middle line. the other lines are connected to the parking light (my original tap) and the high beam. using this switch allows me to run the PIAAs regardless whether high or low beam (by setting the switch to the parking light side). It also allows me to control the PIAAs by the high beam selector (by setting the switch to the high beam side). this setup gives you the most flexibility AND convenience when riding the back roads. makes it easy to shut down the PIAAs and high beams simultaneously for oncoming traffic, but also allows for lane splitting with the PIAAs and low beam. Mark #403.

A3. I ran mine back to the fuse box under the seat-- to make it switched with the bike and to keep the wiring organized and logical. I put an inline fuse about 6 inches away, also under the seat. My switch is a very neat OEM-looking, weather-proof toggle switch through the dash, between the gauges. Jo' in NJ

A4.  The parking light positive lead is a popular choice and recommended in Cyclegadgets instructions. A word of caution, however: If you inadvertently turn off your ignition to the park position (thereby turning on the PIAA's), and don't notice that you've done so, it won't take long to run down your battery. Also, I've forgotten to turn off my PIAA's in stop-and-go traffic, and have needed a push to get started. Cary in Vancouver.

A5. Relays and driving lights. I installed my driving lights several weeks ago, and I ran a wire from the hi-beam to my lighting relay: this wire triggers the relay which then has my driving lights go on and off with the hi-beam. This has worked very well so far. But Natalie recently posted a comment about having the driving lights on with the low beam by using a 3-way switch. Since I don't drive much at night in busy traffic I never worried too much about that. But winter is here, and last night I ran an errand on the bike, and of course city traffic was busy, and I felt obligated to keep my hi-beams off. I felt pretty invisible with my yellowish driving lights off: I've been told by friends that they REALLY stand out in traffic.   Scott, ID #1244

A6.
1- Get yourself a voltmeter or Digital Multimeter if you can.
2- diagram of the H4 plug/bulb from the driver standpoint:

low beam
____

| |
| |
ground high beam
(green)

I tapped the high beam, added an inline fuse at the battery + lead, and a waterproof two-post switch to disengage the entire system if needed.

3- Of course you are using a relay and new wiring for the supply leads instead of the existing wiring, right?
In Summary, Clockwise from left vertical post: Ground (brown), Low (yellow), High (white). The arrangement is logical.  Jason#1027 UT

Q. Do I really need a Relay?

Q. I just added 110 watts of lighting to my '02 Dakar. Hope my battery can survive it. I wired the halogen "Rally" lights to the hi-beam wire just before the wires enter the headlight. Doing this, the additional lights come on with the high beam, and off when on low beam. I may add a switch to allow me to turn them off completely if desired. My question: Will I overload the original headlight wires by essentially doubling the amount of draw through them?

A. Short Answer If you didn't feed the new light with a relay, YES, you are likely to melt down your wiring or switch shortly.

• I would use the current from the tap you made into the high beam wire to activate a 12V relay then use a separate circuit to provide power to the relay and on to the auxiliary lights. this will prevent overloading your wires and your high beam switch and still allow you to integrate a separate switch into the circuit between the high beam wire and the relay in order to deactivate the aux lights and still be able to use the high beam. relays are cheap insurance against future electrical problems. Randy.

• Not knowing the wire gauge and amperage load, hard to say if it can be drawn through the system. I agree that most often wiring to the relay output instead of thru the signal wires makes for greater load carrying ability. This is due to the wire gauge being heavier thru the relay. whitefish 02 Dakar Idaho.

• One suggestion is to tap into your hi-beam wire to run the relay. Relays are so small, the extra load won't hurt. Since you don't want the extra lights to come on every time, add another switch as noted below. Ground the other side of the relay.
  
  This will probably look like crap but here goes.
  
  tap into
  hi-beam switch relay
  -----------------| |--------------( )-------------- Ground
  
  
  battery-------------------------||--------------- Your Lights
  
  Depending on the relay, you'll get a normally open contact or two. Maybe even a normally closed set of contacts. That's what I mean by || above. The relay will be real small but essentially, it's a coil that closes the contacts when the relay is energized. For 110 watts, you'll pull around 9 amps. Make sure the relay contacts are sized at least for that along with the wire too. Take one side of the normally open (N.O.) contact and wire it straight to the battery. Wire the other side to the lights. When you hit your brights and the switch is closed, the relay will energize. When that relay energizes, the contact will close and supply power straight from the battery to your lights. That will give you a nice bright set of lights. I didn't show fuses in any of the circuits above.... you'll need them.

• I can tell you that I have been running a 110 watt headlight for 17,000 miles without a problem. The bike is designed so that if you have too much draw you will blow the fuse long before the wires melt. The extra light really helps. Stuportech, Dakar.

• If you are advising Scott that he can run 170 watts (110 + 60) thru his headlight and switch wiring, IMO you are misleading him, unless the wiring in the GS/D is more substantial than the wiring of previous F models. Todd #389

• No just a 110 watt H-4 head lamp is about max for this system. If I miss read his question I apologise. I am a tech not a reading specialist I am afraid. Clearly 170 watts is too too too much. Extra lighting takes extra stuff just like you get with PIAA kits.

• I bought a separate relay, and wired everything per its instructions. The only thing the original headlight wiring is doing now is triggering the new relay to activate the new lighting; the new lights have their own wiring, fuse, etc. I will need to add up my watts, and see how close I come to 400 watts max if I add heated grips and a vest. Scott

Q What about Alternatives for Mounting them?

For Installation Tips & Photos of Lights on the F650GS/Dakar click the Link

When installing the lights bear in mind NOT to put them too close to the turn signals Here's Why:

• Headlights + Turn Signal. While caging it the other day, I faced two different motorcycles stopped, waiting to turn left with turn signals on. Both had multiple headlights at the same level as the main headlight, and in both cases I had to concentrate *really* hard to see that the turn signal was really on - the brightness of the headlights reduced the visibility of the turn signal - due to their proximity? It was daylight. Sounds dangerous to me . . . had I not been a rider, I probably wouldn't have even bothered to look. Muriel #582

• Good observation. Many people install a higher wattage bulb in their headlights and run aux lights too. Maybe not a good idea. Paul.

• That is what happens when you follow the monthly magazines' advice to run high-beams. That may be OK in some circumstances, but not all, and the rider needs to understand when to use them and when to ride with the low beam on. Richard #230, Pacifica, CA

• I got raped on my PIAA lights $$$$$$, BUT. they mounted nicely under the fairing so to speak. Bottom of the fairing right behind the fork leg...sorta where the 'skid' plate is...there is a hex bolt there on either side... I mounted the lights there...don't know if this will work for you, but the little PIAA's work well there...no fuss no muss...also they sit right up against the Hepco Becker engine guard and a little behind so they are protected front he bottom and sides. They came with all the associated relays and switches...I just took em right to the battery. Nick #1085 Glenwood 

• I made a bracket out of aluminum plate. the plate is bolted to/through the plastic headlight bracket (fender washers used for support), with a third mounting point using the screw right in the middle of the fairing, just under the headlight. this mounts my PIAAs about 6-8 inches apart, under the headlight. they are just high enough that they wont hit the fender when bottoming out, and they are narrow enough that they are protected from falls. My recommendation (assuming the lights come with a switch), is to wire them "always on", then use a 3 position, 3-wire switch (hi-off-low) between your low current source and the relay. one wire goes to the hi beam, the other to the parking light. this setup will allow you to run your lights in any configuration, always on (low or high), switched by highbeam, or off. I've got a stencil for the bracket I made, but the shape where the lights attach is specifically for the PIAA 1200s. No welding was involved. I had the metal shop where i bought the aluminum put a 45 degree bend in it at about the middle (cost only a few dollars). Then I used a jigsaw w/metal blade and a grinder to do the rest. can send you a picture, too. I wouldn't want my lights attached to the fork tubes because they aren't suspended. every road shock will be applied to the lights...bad on your eyes and the bulbs. mark #403

Windshield Mounted

• I wouldn't put extra stress on those windshield screws in a million years. It must work since they're selling them, but I still find it hard to believe that mount is sturdy enough to hold extra lights. Thomas849 (Norway, '97ST).

Q. Will they overload my Alternator?

• PIAA 1000's. The combined draw of 170 watts, will most likely exceed the excess output of the F's alternator (275 watt - 170 = 105 watts). Several people myself included run a pair of 55 watt (55 + 55 = 110 watts) PIAA's I can run my lights alone without a problem but I do not try to run the lights and heated grips at the same time too much draw. You could switch the bulbs in the 1000 to one of the PIAA bulbs which draws 55 watts but puts out 85 watts worth of light. If I remember right the output of the Pegaso alternator is 175 watts, so one might think that there is at least 100 watts of excess capacity in the classic F alternator. I have 55 watt PIAA lights mounted on mine, no problem running the lights but I do not run my heated grips at the same time. So far 3 years with no problems. Peter Jensen #233.

• If you have a classic, I recommend against buying anything that draws 110 watts. My rectifier failed (just found out today), and they're saying it is due to overloading the system. With only 280 watts, there's not much to spare. I'm not sure I agree with them. I know I was cutting it close, but the one variable I don't have the numbers for is how much the ignition draws. Just thought I'd let you know, cause it's going to be a pricey fix.  With respect to the VR, I'm clueless. I don't own any heated clothing, but have heated grips. I've run MANY times using a voltmeter (on my GPS, which reads ~.4V lower than actual, due to the diode, as it's been described to me). Running the PIAAs and NOTHING else, voltage seems to be maintained at a reasonable level, albeit slightly lower than without the lights on, perhaps a half volt lower. turn on the grips, voltage drops to lower than ideal, even dangerously low. I NEVER run the grips and lights together, and yet, my VR failed. I don't know if it was due to the lights, but of course the dealer wouldn't warranty it, stating the system had been over-taxed (and I have a good dealer). it was actually BMWNA that denied the claim. You can't beat the light output of the PIAAs, but when you add up the draw of the whole system, you find that you are extremely close to maximum (for classic, 280w) without including the ignition draw (nobody knows what it draws). and that does not include turn signals, dash lights, fan, and any other overlooked draw. So far, no one has posted that they use PIAAs all the time on their classic and have had no issues with ANY electrical bits. so you are taking a chance. if you're traveling internationally and want the light, go with PIAAs or Hellas. the PIAAs are small, which is awesome...not sure about the Hellas, but the Hellas tend to use h3 bulbs which are available almost anywhere. PIAAs tend to use reflector/bulb units that you have to buy from PIAA (cha-ching...) do yourself a favor and buy the VR in advance (about $150), and then HOPE that your wiring harness to the VR doesn't look like mine. I replaced my wiring from the alternator to the VR with heavy wire because my 3 yellow wires were toast. All this applies to my '99. Mark #403.

• Constant use of 2 - 55 watt driving lights, heated vest, and heated grips will be more load than the Classic system will sustain - you might have better luck with a GS but it's a lot of load. 2 - 35 watt lights and a heated vest is probably the largest continuous load the Classic will sustain. Todd #389.

• As I remember, the MotoLights use a rather chintzy 12V insert, like you see in the Hardware stores for an under-the-counter lights. The PIAA are 55W each so they draw about 8 Amps total. I think your vest will draw about 70 Watts, but that is intermittent--You don't run it full blast all the time. Either you turn it on-off with a switch or the thermostat controller does it for you. If you draw more than than the alternator can handle, then you pull some from the battery, but as soon as the vest is off then the alternator feeds the battery again. My assessment is that you would have no problem running the PIAAs, your head/tail lights and your heated vest. Dick #420

• Motolights draw 6 amps. NewMexEd.

• Replace your brake lights with LEDs. That'll save you some watts you can put toward the headlights. Twinrider.

• The normal taillight doesn't consume all that much power -- just 15 or 25 watts. And you should not be riding your brakes, so you need the higher-power (55W) brake light only when you're braking. And for those short times, the battery can supply that power. (In stop-and-go traffic you might not want to have your high-beamers on anyway.) Timberwoof

Q. Why do I keep Blowing Fuses after Installing them?

Q. OK, the new "ally" lights work great, but I've blown two fuses in two days. But they work great when the fuses are intact. It seems the fuse blows if I start the engine with the high beams (and the Rally) lights turned on. I don't know about the other years, but the '02 Dakar has the lights shut down while cranking, and then they come back on after the engine fires up. This is when the 15A in-line fuse seems to blow. The relay I bought for the lights is not of the same brand, but for a different brand driving light. Could the relay be rated too high, and is drawing more power than the fuse can handle? If I use a 20A fuse, am I likely to blow the halogen bulbs? The short-term fix is to turn off the driving lights prior to cranking, but that requires me to remember to do so.

A1. If I recall, your new lights are rated at 110 W. Add the 55-60 W that your headlight uses and you're at 165 - 170 W. At steady state, the system runs at around 12.6-12.8 V which is 13.5 A. However, as you start up and shut down, the voltage varies. As the voltage goes down, the amps go up. You're not that far away from blowing a 15 A fuse when your steady state is already at 13.5A. I'd try a 20A fuse keeping in mind that the normal fuse for the headlight/turn signals/horn/brake light is already at 15A. As far as blowing your lights, no worries. The fuse just sits there fat, dumb and happy until is sees more than 20A when it blows. It'll pass whatever the load demands but no more than 20A.

A2. Starting the bike with the light on puts a tremendous strain on the battery, that's why there's a cut-out relay in the new bikes. Todd#389

A3. How much current will a dead short pass?[1] It takes TIME to heat the metal of a fuse to the point where it will melt. The higher the current, the less time required. The fact that the fuse melts in a hurry when subjected to a gross over current situation, rather than slowly as when subjected to a 5% over current situation, is an indication that it will indeed pass the higher current. [1] the supply voltage divided by the internal resistance of the voltage supply.

Then Check the Electrical Misc FAQs - Shorts - Blown Ignition Fuse Cure.

Q. Are they any Good?  Opinions

• Alternatives (Generic)
• Hellas
• Motolights
• PIAAs
• Touratech Fog & HID Lights

O - Alternatives (generic)

• Before springing the big bucks for PIAA trot on down to Pep Boys. I kid you not. Look at their Rally lights. They are the same lights for a tiny fraction of the price. The packaging is even the same, silver cardboard wrapped around styro with lights compartmented. I bought mine for $35 three years ago for my R1100GS. They are identical to the PIAA 1400 series, 55w halogen bulb. At the time they used the yellow dichroic reflector, the new ones have dichroic bulbs and blue reflectors. What don't you get? The PIAA decal, the fancy switch and motorcycle specific wiring. They come with miles of wire, for use on cars, and an ugly rocker switch. I wired mine direct with no switch as I wanted them always on for conspicuity. 3 years and 50,000 miles later, they're still shining, original bulbs and all. I was in the store a few weeks ago, they still have a variety of them for under $50, including the chrome units and the blue reflector models. I swear they're all made by the same manufacturer and PIAA jacks the price 500% to provide a cachet. Oh yeah, I think Wal-Mart has a small selection as well. Alan #442 FL

• I almost bought a set of mini 55w lights, solid aluminum housings with brackets, a wiring harness, switch and relay for $19.99 at Pep Boys. Wal-mart had similar items at similar prices. But thanks for the warning Art, you are correct to advise against installing extra lights (or anything really) without a relay. Mason #631 - 97ST in PA.

• Flash has sent to me some headlights so that I might be able to see where I'm going in the dark (Harbor freight part number 37536-2VGA, www.harborfreight.com). I'm gonna mount 'em somewhere on my '99 Classic. Lights1,  Lights2, Lights3.

• In attempt to better see those pesky deer at night, I just picked up a set of Halogen "Rally" lights from NAPA for $59. These are 55watt lamps. I've read through the FAQ, but didn't see any mention of this brand, so before I begin the install, I thought I'd solicit some opinions. Also, has anyone put these kind of lights on a Dakar? If so, where did you mount them? Scott, ID

• Have mine in my '00 classic since August past with good success and terrific illumination. It's an EiKO (the quality lamp), part 6265, H4 12V, 100/80W, heavy duty. No idea where or how my dealer got it but he said he's installed tons of them with no complaints or melt downs. Art 884

• Another option is 55/100W bulbs...this assumes that you'll use the 55 at slow speed or daytime running...and the 100W only at night at higher speeds (when you REALLY need it). I haven't replaced my bulb in the F yet, but did in my old Airhead, with great results. Marty #436-Chicago-97 F650F

• It's very possible to get great light without HID. My $40 Harbor Freight driving lights don't generate enough light to warrant high speeds in the pitch black, but I can do 75 with plenty of vis with my high beam and the driving lights on. I've ridden with a Kaw ZZR12 and they have dual aircraft landing lights for driving lights stock- HOLY KAW that's a lot of light. (admittedly they had to upgrade the charging system to do that) It was like daylight at night except that even on the divided superslab it was too bright for oncoming drivers. IMHO there's enough juice in the charging system to handle nice, reasonably priced lights+ other farkles, you just have to be conscious of the power your spending/depositing. You can't dog the generator if you're only pulling 3K on the Tach. Also, it's possible to control lights individually based on your draw. Once I get my genuine *Seacuke LED voltmeter* I'll be ready to throw some serious lighting on- my HF fog lights were crap and they both had shorts in the light itself- dead weight now. 2001 F650GS, Aurora, CO. chppdlvvr

• I rode around the woods (both asphalt and dirt) for several hours today with my aux lights (110 watt), heated grips on high, and vest on 3 setting. No problem. It still starts back up just fine. I don't have a voltmeter installed yet, but I did notice the battery tender is staying in the charging cycle longer than usual today. But at least it had plenty of juice left to start! Razz '03 black GS, Colorado.

• I have 2 BMW'S one is the adventurer the other a f650,Having spent wads of money with BMW having the fogs lights supplied on my adventurer at a cost of 550 UK pounds, I thought I would attempt to install some of my own on my 650, Here is how I did it for a cost of less than 50 pounds, went to local car shop and purchased a pair of small fog lights for 30 pounds, spent 5 pounds on a handle bar switch, made a set of brackets to mount the lights on. The only down side to the installation of the lights was I had to drill 2 holes on each side of my fairing, but the result was good for a fraction of the BMW cost. Like the bike, the lights are used on a regular basis and are very effective. If you wish to see a photo of them please E mail me for a photo. kevig, F650, UK.

• Next.

O - Hellas

Pictures of Light "Throw" from your chosen Hella Lights (Text in German).

See also Install Report Below.

• I have HELLA FF50's and you can buy them here for a very reasonable price. I don't want to sound like a broken record or a salesman but I honestly endorse HELLA driving lights. I've used them on all of my vehicles without a single failure due to manufacturing. They are extremely resilient and I just can't find anything about the PIAAs, aside from bragging rights, that is better than comparable model Hellas. It is irritating to see someone drop 250 quid on a set of lights that, IMHO, just aren't worth it. Here's a minor testimony to the FF50's: I just came back from a little tour of the NW. 3800 miles later I find myself on highway 90 between Spokane and Missoula in the middle of the night and it's raining. Even though I was going slower than most other drivers wanted to go, they would not pass me - but pull in next to me to let me light the canyon. No, I wasn't being a prick and leaving my lights on when they did pass. I just happened to be the brightest thing in the canyon. Yes, it was kind of a strange experience, but if you spend twice as much on a "better" lamp then I think you're strange :-). Jason#1027 UT. See the pics in the GS Aftermarket Lights FAQ.

• Hellas aren't very fancy but they've been around for a long time. Parts can be found worldwide in surprising places. Anytime you can replace a burnt lamp with a standard part from a store down the block (or a Mongolian garage), rather than have to order and wait for delivery, it's a big plus IMO. Todd #389

• I ran Hella's on my F before I sold it. They are great lights. Another advantage over PIAA's is that replacement bulbs are a couple of bucks vs. the cost of a decent dinner. Also, the bulbs are available at any automotive place. YMMV. Scott C. #345

• I just put HELLA ff50's on my 02 Dakar. Easy install and very bright. Light bar came from RCU. www.sierrabmw.com (Sparks, NV. has these in stock). $99 for the bar $68 for the lights. Rollin rob.

• I can see! After getting tired of feeling blind at night on the freeway I just upgraded my lighting as follows: Replaced 60/55 H4 with 100/80. Ok, I admit it, I went with the "Xenon Blue". I like the color and the extra wattage makes a huge improvement. Installed a pair of 55watt Hella OPTILUX fog lights using the RCU Designs light bar. The FAQs were very helpful. The Hella lights were not as pricey as the PIAAs. I used the RCU bar because I wanted isolate the lights as much as possible from road vibration (the mount on frame instead of forks). I wired these in just the low beams. I may change this later. The improvement is incredible and so far nobody has flashed me about my bright lights. I will have to watch to see if the new bulb gets too hot for the plug or reflector. I have put a couple hours at night so far and it doesn't seem to be too much of a drain on the charging system. The whole thing cost about $170. The light bar was the most expensive at $100. Warren #1219, Pacifica, CA

• I'm currently working on installing Hella Micro DE fog lights (try a search on Google). They're very small (maybe a bit long) and put out a lot of light. Can't say much about them otherwise, as they're not on the bike. Paid $117 shipped. I just got my Hella's installed on my bike (with some professional help with the mount) and I'm very happy with it. Right now I'm using only one light, to see if I can get away with it. 55W vs. 110W, plus I have heated grips. So far so good, but I need to do some comparison runs with both lights to be sure what's good. its_xls 2001 F650 GSA -- San Jose, CA.

• Next.

O - Motolights

• I have Motolights on my 02 GS and I run with them on most of the time, day and night. I've run them with my hand warmers on high with no problem. I haven't tried it yet with my electric jacket. They are great for making you more visible and at night you wonder how you could see before with only the headlight. My husband has them on his bike, too, and I have ridden in front of him with his Motolights and another guy on the same model of bike with PIAAs and there was a big difference in visibility--the Motolights were much more noticeable. You can adjust them so oncoming cars don't flash you at night, yet you can still see the road well. I also put a PIAA super-white headlight bulb in with the same wattage as stock, but brighter. They don't add a lot of extra light on low beam, but I think it makes you more visible to cars because of the very white color. When more cars have these bulbs, the advantage may go away. The bulbs definitely put out more light on high beam, though. Bonnie.

• I've got Motolights too and can tell you that the bulbs are easy to replace by unscrewing the metal/lens bevel with the "G" shaped tool included that comes with the kit. I have done this a few times and tried different types (watts, beam spread, brand) bulbs. The bulbs are simple 12-volt household type, about $8 each. I ended up sticking with the stock GE 35 watt bulbs. I agree the switch is big and ugly. I velcroed it to the top of the front fork shock riser, just under the handlebar. I think the switch is important as these lights draw A LOT of juice and can drain a weak battery in 5 minutes of sustained idling. They may be 75 watts but they draw current more like 500 watts. Joe #1065

• I don't like the moto lights because they are just 12V, under the counter kitchen lights mounted in a very nice housing. No wonder they can give you "lifetime Warrantee on the bulbs" If you want a real solid high intensity light, my recommendation is the PIAA 1100X, now that is a real motoring light and reflector. Dick #420.

• I have MotoLights. If you ask me, they are not much more than FOGLIGHTS. If you want driving lights, look elsewhere. I use Hella FF50's. In fact, I run both the MotoLights (on the forks) and the Hellas (above the mirrors) on my RT. Can't do that on the F, so you may want to consider something in between, like the PIAA 1100x's. Scott C. #345

• I've run PIAA add on lights before (Platinum Series on my1100GS) and they worked really great, but look to spend lots for these(200$+). The Moto-lights are good, I hear and draw about 35 watts each, I think. Simpler mounting to fork legs and less draw on system than other brands, such as PIAA. Maybe not quite as much light as PIAA add-ons, but still pretty good, I hear. Good luck. I know the desert feeling in dark, with no moon, especially! Moon in desert at night makes quite a difference. Go for a ride sometime with full moon (neat). Randy748

• Buy a set of MotoLights and your problems are over. They are very effective, easy to install, and guaranteed for life! What more could you want ? I have them on my Funduro and had them on my Roadster for 5 years. And, the people who own the company are nice folks to do business with !! Steve#1059 in MA

• Well, I managed to install Motolights on my motorcycle this weekend . . . and I didn't make anything explode! Installation was pretty simple, even for a hack like me, and the instructions were easy to follow. A couple of things I've noticed about them that I haven't seen mentioned, though:
  
  1. The switch that comes with the kit is pretty ugly, and big too. For now, I simply jumpered the switch wires together (so the lights are always on), but I may add a different switch at some point (just so I can turn the lights off in case of some sort of electrical emergency--otherwise, I intend to keep the lights on all the time anyway).
  
  2. The Motolight lifetime warranty includes free lifetime bulb replacement. I was just about to email Motolight and find out why I didn't get a special tool to unscrew the lens, but I decided to go out to the garage and have a closer look first, Turns out, on mine, I can unscrew the lens by hand. So I stand corrected--the bulbs _are_ easy to change.
  
  3. I didn't want the stainless steel straps to scratch the fork tubes, so I got straps that were 1/8" longer than I needed, and put some heat shrink tubing on them. Looks great, and should protect the tubes a little. Josh #581

•  

O - PIAAs

• PIAA mounting kit. Just talked to the people at CBT imports ---they say they will have a mounting kit for the PIAA 1100X driving lights ready in about a month--the kit is for the F650 . It will mount the lights on the stalk of the turn signal lights. They apparently will also have a kit for the F650GS. To be advised when the mounting kit is available-they say to send an e mail to them and they will advise when ready. Their e mail address is: sales@cbtimports.com Bill # 391

• I've broken more turn signals than anything else on my F. If you go down, you WILL break them. Do you really want to add $200 to that bill? Mark #403

• I agree with Mark, I would much rather mount the PIAAs under the headlight where they will be protected. Besides I now have flush mounted turn signals, so when I go down I only scrape them a little rather than break off the Stalk. Dick #420

• I put in the PIAA 80/80, which IS much brighter, but that's because it is higher wattage. Got 4 for $10 each in case they die early, but so far so good. $40 is just too damn much money for a light bulb. Mason #631 - 97ST in PA

• I paid about 2X the price (as the HELLAs) for my PIAA kit including Relay and switch; looks like it all comes in the Hella Kit. I have the PIAA 1100X and I really like them. They make the night like Daylight. Dick #420

• I have the PIAA 1200's. if I had to buy again, I'd probably buy the 1100X's. nonetheless, the 1200's are really too bright to use in traffic, even during the day (although I sometimes use them when lane splitting, since I wont piss anyone off for more than a second). I paid a discounted price for my lights (still over $150, I think) as part of my bike purchase. replacement bulbs (actually a bulb/reflector unit) are about $25 for the 1200's, $40 for the 1100X's. I haven't needed a replacement in 3 years of vibrating on my f650. but the price and availability of the replacements should be a consideration perhaps. I love my PIAAs. they're bright, small, and robust. I fabbed a slick bracket that mounts under the headlight (classic F), so the lights are out of harm's way in a spill. I wouldn't want to sacrifice them at that price. My PIAA was shot after about a year. I agree with your assessment, whiter, but not really brighter. I replaced it with a $9 Sylvania (9003?=h4) that claims to be 20% brighter than normal. seemed good and bright, not sure if it was REALLY any brighter. while it was still good, I ordered a Phillips vision plus or something or other. you have to order a pair, which was $28 including shipping. When the box arrived, they sent me 3 bulbs. They were apparently having an unadvertised special, which was a pleasant surprise. But now I have a lifetime supply of bulbs (my original stock, the Sylvania, and two spare Phillips). I haven't ridden at night with the Phillips yet, but I don't expect much difference from a regular h4. My PIAA super white was only $32 from a BMW dealer. I have PIAA 1200s (110watts total). they are awesome, as bright as I want, too bright for traffic and may have caused voltage regulator failure. with respect to the VR (see above). The PIAAs are small, which is awesome...not sure about the Hellas, but the Hellas tend to use H3 bulbs which are available almost anywhere. PIAAs tend to use reflector/bulb units that you have to buy from PIAA. Just hope the PIAAs don't blow a bulb... gotta replace the whole bulb/reflector unit and the 1100x costs somewhere around $45 EACH. So far, I haven't had to replace a bulb in my 1200s ($25 each). All this applies to my '99. Mark #403.

• I mounted my PIAA's 1100's with a Martin bracket on my GS. It wasn't that difficult at all! The difference in riding is night and day :-) I found the PIAA's on sale for 160 and paid 150 for the bracket (the part that hurt). I should say that the brackets are made with so much precision that it looks like stock. In addition Marin Fabrication claims that the lights will be safe even in a tip over. My friend mounted the Motolights on his bike a few weeks earlier and the PIAA's are hands down brighter. If you don't adjust them right you get hell of a lot of people covering their mirrors when you pull up behind! Personally, I am not that happy with the PIAA's (or any after market lights) when they are mounted up by the headlights, since they are so bright that on coming traffic cannot see your indicators at all. I am sure I could have rigged up something near the engine guards but, when I tested that location found a lot of kick back from the wheels...hence bit the bullet and bought the Martin bracket. Abe 963.

• I'm not so sure about the Martin Fabrication bars performing that well in the event of a get off. I have PIAA's mounted on my Dakar with those same bars and it looks awfully vulnerable. In fact, I would expect it to do some damage to the side panels if the bike goes over. I have Motolights on my K12 and I feel that they are every bit as good as the PIAA's in lighting up the road. They also contribute more to "conspicuity" because of the way they're configured. Just my $.02 worth. RogerN #827

• I mounted them on my Valkyrie. I bought some clamps that go on the engine protection bars (notice I didn't call them crash bars!!) and then mounted the lights to the bars. For the F650 I would build a bracket out of aluminum and mount the lights under the headlight, or I might even consider mounting the PIAAs directly to the plastic because they aren't very heavy. These lights are really great and turn the darkness to almost daylight. Dick #420.

• Web Bike World Articles. Scroll Down for Tech Articles on Lights, Headlight Modulator.

• On my RS, I'm running a pair of PIAA 1200s. I think they're great. Expensive? Maybe. Especially when hooked up to the modified euro-switch, and a full rewiring with heavy gauge wire and relays for the PIAAs and both headlight circuits. Sometimes I run a higher wattage headlight bulb, too. I've run 80/80s and 55/100s. I run around in the Rocky Mountains at night. Deer and elk are everywhere. Lots of light is a good thing. Of course, a 700w alternator doesn't hurt. I just took my F out for the first time in a couple of weeks (I was doing a service on it and got distracted). What a pathetic stock head light. Bryan #179 (NM)

• I've got the 1200s on my '99 and they are incredibly bright. besides being much brighter than the headlight (even an upgraded bulb), they can be positioned where I want them to light the road. with an upgraded bulb, you still stuck with the light pattern and position of the stock headlight housing. the PIAAs are expensive (and $25 for a new bulb, if ever needed), but so far, I have yet to see anything else even close. are they worth it? to me, absolutely. and I would buy them again. but I'd probably check out the 1100x. unless I'm mistaken, the MotoLights are also only 35 watts. Mark #403.

• The Moto lights are much less output in comparison. I used the 1100 Platinum series PIAA's on my big GS and the light was incredible. I still stand by my single headlight switched bulb for my 650 answer. Not as much light, but Plenty strong over stock with three times the light. Randy748/Calif.

• I've been running PIAA Super brights for years with no problems. The PIAA on my KLR has three years and 29,000 miles on it with no failures. The PIAA in my 01 Dakar has two years and 12,000 miles on , which includes 5000+ miles from the Alcan 5000 which was breaking parts of some bikes. I can't complain, but I understand your frustration. I personally swear by the PIAA stuff. Let me say first that I have no brand loyalties in anything, if it doesn't work, I'll say so. They sponsored me in the Alcan 5000 with their new 2.75" Xtreme White running lights and they are nothing short of awesome! The whole trip, including a rough 300 mile section of dirt and gravel (including 1' washouts) never affected these lights, not to mention that they're brightness and spread were equal to much larger aux. lights. Very compact and when mounted below and forward of my turn signals, survived three bike-down episodes. Skip

• I've tried PIAAs and don't recommend them. I bought two, one didn't fit the headlight properly and the other seemed to have improper focal properties and needed a lot of adjustment to get the beam on the road properly. High priced junk... '98 KLR 650, Fort Collins, CO. Harl #380

O - Touratech Fog & HID Lights

• Seemed nobody in the list has the Touratech fog lights in their bike so I took the plunge and ordered a pair of lights for my GS. It arrived today and I had it installed by a bike mechanic. It cost me $280 plus shipping to the Philippines and I'd say, I'm very satisfied with it. I think its quite expensive for fog lights but the build finish seems to be of high quality. By the way, the bulbs are by Hella . It came with relays and 2 switches but I only used one. It seemed quite simple to install and there's no need to do modifications on the bike to put the lights on. My friend here just got the Touratech HID light for his bike and is yet to be installed. I really liked this initially but the cost ($389 for just one side) kinda turned me off. jagged F650CS, F650GS Phillipines

• My friend just had his Touratech HID light installed last week and what I can say is that its ALOT brighter than my fog lights. Regarding installation...basically, it seems that Touratech used standard Hella light assembly in their lights w/ their custom mounts hence the high price tag ($389 for 1 HID light w/ mount). We didn't modify the bike's electrics in any way and just followed the supplied instructions w/c wasn't very clear so we had to figure out some part of the installation process. The Touratech HID fog light turned on when you switch to high beam and I'm not sure if you can make a separate switch for it. On the other hand, my non-HID fog lights came w/ a switch to turn it on. The nice thing w/ the HID is that it makes the road much brighter but its a bit blinding to incoming traffic. With the normal fog lights, I get a wider vision at night compared w/ just the stock lights. jagged F650CS, F650GS Phillipines

• We have the Touratech HID driving light on one of our F650 Classics. The results, IT WORKS. I will do a write up when I get home from Mexico. A couple of notes, watch your battery water level, and the mount needs to be modified to fit the Classic. These lights are available from Mr. d's. Best Regards, Don#301 Mr Ed's Moto Accessories.

• 

• The one thing about the more expensive Xenon (HID) light from Touratech is that it is only supposed draw 35w instead of the normal 55w for this size light. If you are really are at the limit on watts then it might the way to go. Brad, N. CA., 2001 F650GS - Inmate #1002

• Next.
   

Light Installations for PIAA Lights

PIAA Installation #1
04/11/99
Mark #403

I wrote the following out quickly and in piecemeal fashion. It's not a perfect solution, but it works for me and I actually love the placement. Also easy to adjust angles, etc. The PIAA switch is velcro'd to the base of my left mirror where I can reach it with my thumb. If you try something like this, just don't mount them lower than I did or the wheel could hit under full compression of the shocks.

 

Instead of using a single piece of aluminium, I used 3 pieces that I bolted together. Eventually I will redo this with a single piece, file the two extensions that mount the lights so that they match exactly the shape of the light bases with no overlap (or actually underlap), and paint the whole thing black. So I wont describe exactly what I did, rather I'll describe what I intend to do sometime in the future. You can see the difference between my description and the pictures for yourselves. The one benefit to having done it this way is that the two pieces mounted to the bracket allow the lights to be a little wider apart because of their shape. It's a little hokey, I know, but you can't see the bracket at all unless you get under the bike.

 

I got the aluminium pieces from a local sheet metal shop that I found in the yellow pages. Total cost was less than $20, including the bending and cutting. The shaping and further cutting of the pieces I did with a jig saw and files. The aluminium is really easy to work with. However, it took two attempts with slightly different approaches, each time really an experiment, both times frustrating. It will be smoother next time.

What you need:

• 1/8 aluminium sheet, 8 wide X approx 8 long with approx 60 deg bend across width, two inches down from top.
• Some hardware of your choice (nyloc nuts, bolts, washers)
• Wrenches to match hardware
• Propane torch or other high heat source
• Files
• Hacksaw or jig saw with metal blade
• Vice (when cutting/filing)

The 2 angle is attached to the plastic frame that holds the headlamp (that's the only part about the install I don't like). I drilled two holes into the plate matching the hardware size in a location that I knew would contact the plastic frame. I heated an extra bolt red hot, held up the plate where I wanted it, and melted two holes into the plastic, through the holes in the plate. If you have a flat angle drill, that would be better than melting, but I don't. I had to file notches into the plate where it exited from under the fairing so there would be no metal-to-fairing contact, yet allow the plate to exit as high as possible. Now, mount the lights where you want them and draw around the bases with a pencil. With a saw, take off as much bulk as you can and file the rest to the shape you want.

Obviously, I filed each of the two small pieces individually, then bolted them onto the bracket. The last thing I did was drive a screw through the centre into the plastic tab attached to the fairing for added support. Considering the bracket is mounted to the plastic frame, they are actually very solid and don't vibrate like I thought they might.

Good luck with whatever you do. By the way, the $160 price you found on the internet is the same price I used to negotiate with my dealer. If shipping's not too bad, it's a good price. They're $195 everywhere else I've seen them.

Installation is pretty basic:

• My PIAAs came with a relay and a little crimp/splice connector that was supposed to be wired to the highbeam (+). instead of going to the highbeam, I wired the relay to a 2-position, 3-wire switch (waterproof, from an auto parts store, mounted through the dash).
• The middle wire on the switch (out) was the wire to the relay, which required a (+) feed. the upper wire on the switch (in) was a wire tapped into the highbeam (+). the lower wire on the switch (in) was a wire tapped into the parking light (+).
• So when I have the switch in the up position, the PIAAs will only work if the high beam is on (i.e. controllable by the left thumb switch). when the switch is in the lower position, the PIAAs will work any time. and of course, the master control is the other switch that came with the PIAAs. if it isn't on, the lights wont be on regardless what position the dash switch is in.

PIAA Installation #2
By Flash #412

Homemade Light Bar Installation:

The Wolverine gave me a set of PIAAs that she pulled off her International Scout a decade or more ago. I went down to Home Depot and bought a couple of galvanized brackets used for attaching a wooden 4x4 to something or other for about $2.50 apiece. I cut some of the tabs off the brackets and drilled some holes in them. Using a grinder, I radiused the ends to match the radii of the PIAA brackets. I broke the other corners and edges with a file and then painted them with black semi-gloss engine enamel followed (after appropriate drying time) by treatment with a heat gun to harden the paint.

I drilled holes and mounted the brackets to the plastic engine side covers below the gas tank with a couple of screws each. I soldered some ring terminals on the ends of a pair of pieces of wire an inch or so long to be used as safety restraints in the event that the brackets break from fatigue while I am riding. Hopefully I would notice the light dangling and rescue it if the brackets turn out not to be up to the job.

The brackets follow a line on the plastic that tilts them forward. This is a Good Thing since it means that the lights are tilted somewhat up when the bike is unladen. With a load, the back of the bike drops some which means the lights need to be tilted down so they don't shine up in the trees. If the brackets were level with the ground, I might not be able to get enough down-tilt to keep them where they need to be.

The angle brackets are splayed slightly OUT as attached to the bike. But the PIAA brackets have enlongated holes that allow enough left-right adjustment to get the lights pointed in the right direction.

I ran a healthy wire (via a fuse) from the battery to a relay TyWrapped to the frame that holds the fairing. The relay is activated by a three-position (center off) SPDT switch AND via a diode from my horn relay. The diode connection means that whenever I beep the horn, the lights will be illuminated as long as the horns are blaring (if they aren't already on). (The diode keeps the fact that the lights are on from beeping the horn.) One leg of the switch is connected to the parking light circuit. (I have a Euro lightswitch and can run only the parking lights if I want.) When the switch is in that position, whenever the ignition is on and any lights at all are on, the auxillary lights STAY on. The other switch position is wired to the high beam signal. This means that whenever the highbeams are on, whether flashed or on steady, the auxillary lights will illuminate, but go off when on low beam (or parking light only, or not lights at all).

The light brackets were attached to the angle brackets and the angle brackets to the bike side covers with 4mm screws and hardware. In the photos, the nuts are regular nuts with washers and locknuts. But I later replaced the standard hex nuts with NyLock nuts, retaining the other hardware.

Each light is grounded at its nearby radiator mount. Each of the hot wires runs up around the steering head and into the area under the dash inside some clear plastic Tygon tubing to avoid and chafing and shorting. Where the hot and ground wires join together to go to each light, the pair runs inside heat shrink tubing. The wires simply come out from under the fairing and go to the lights. Molex connectors were used near the lights to simplify removing the lowers when necessary for maintenance or repairs.

The PIAAs each have a 55W bulb in them. Turning them on casts a blue-yellow light. Riding out in the boondocks at night, the difference between just the stock headlight and with the auxillary lights is almost like night and day. I think I am spoiled. I haven't taken any long rides at night with my GSP-voltmeter yet. But riding ten miles with the lights on seems to have no deleterious effect on the state of the battery charge. It is summer, so I haven't tried them with my heated grips and/or electric vest. I figure that if I notice the voltage dropping while running heated accessories, I can either turn them off for a few miles or else just unplug one of them. If I were to drop the bike and destroy the PIAAs, I'd probably replace them with some different (MUCH less expensive) lights.

Here are a few photos showing how they ended up. (Sorry about the crappy focus on the second shot.)

F650ST Driving Light
Teddco #1192 GA 97ST
01-Oct-02

Anyone looking auxiliary lighting for an F650 may want to consider he setup shown in the photos.

• I bought a set of remote controlled, 55-watt automobile driving lights at Walmart, Cyber White Remote Series NV-526W by Navigator, $39.00. Cut one driving light off the wiring harness, terminate and seal bare wire ends in the harness. (I put the amputated light on my wife's Honda Rebel.).
• Widen the slots in one mounting bracket to the size of the bolts that hold the horn bracket casting on the underside of the lower triple clamp.
• Mount light bracket under horn bracket bolts.
• Mount light that is still attached to wiring harness.
• Fashion a bracket out of pipe hanger and mounted the receiver (visible in photos) inside the fairing, fastened by the nut that holds the right front turn signal.
• Remove gas tank, route harness, secure with cable ties.
• I ran hot and ground directly to battery since harness has in-line fuse.
• Mount remote holder with double sided tape to dash.
• I added some thin elastic cord on the remote that slips under the holder to keep it in place. Still plenty of room between light and fender.
• Nice wide, spread out beam that turns with forks.

Optilux Driving Light Install

by Will in CA #1021

 

 

I have installed the Optilux lights by Hella available at JC Whitney for 49.99 plus shipping (part # 07UB3236P this is the round model with clear lens).  In the event a

bulb burns out they use 55-watt H3 halogen bulbs available at most auto parts stores.  I did use the relay that came with them but the wiring harness and switch were really cheap so I got my own 3 way waterproof switch, fuse holder and the stuff to make a wiring harness.

 

FRONT VIEW OF MOTORCYCLE

LEFT SIDE VIEW OF MOTORCYCLE

 

I made brackets that mount the lights to the fairing just above the turn signal lights.

 

CLOSE UP OF LIGHT BRACKET

ANOTHER CLOSE UP OF THE BRACKET

 

I used the same rubber nut thingy’s and screws used to hold the “classic” windscreen (BMW part # 46 63 2 345 091) in place hoping that if I take a fall the rubber will pull through the plastic instead of breaking it.  I wasn’t sure if they would hold up to the task but they do.  They have been tested now with thousands of miles including rough dirt roads at high speeds with plenty of vibration and nothing has come loose.  

 

CLOSE UP OF THE WELLNUTS

CLOSE UP OF THE WELLNUTS

 

The switch and indicator light are mounted using a bracket made from stainless steel sheet metal held in place by the two Allen head bolts (replaced with longer bolts) holding the left mirror to the handlebars.  If I were to make another I would put the large hole that mounts the switch another ¼ inch or so further away from the handle bar (towards the rider) allowing a little more room to operate the high beam low beam switch.  Because prototypes out of aluminum are easier to make and the metal can be purchased at many hardware stores this is recommended.  The final installation could also be done with aluminum but I like the shine of stainless steel.  Directly behind the stainless bracket are stacked washers as spacers on the new longer bolts allowing the bracket to sit with no pressure on the rounded part of the mirror handle bar clamp.  More washers are required for the bottom bolt because of the design of the mirror handle bar clamp.

 

With a full-face helmet the indicator light is just out of view.  It should be considered that this little light can be annoying at night if it’s two bright or in the wrong place.

 

CLOSE UP OF THE LIGHT SWITCH BRACKET FROM THE LEFT

CLOSE UP OF THE LIGHT SWITCH STRAIGHT ON

 

The three way switch is wired so the up position is running the auxiliary light with the high beams the middle position has the auxiliary lights off and the down position runs the auxiliary lights with the running lights (on all the time; thanks Rodskogi).

 

The new relay is mounted under the dash just behind the tachometer.  Using wire ties it’s hung from the fairing-mounting bracket on the left side positioned so the terminals point down.  Marking the terminals using tape on the sides makes it much easier to read the terminal numbers with the relay mounted.  Other wise it’s very difficult if not imposable to read the numbers with the relay mounted.

• Run a new hot wire from the terminal 30 on the relay to the battery (remove the fuel tank to do this) with a fuse close to the battery.

• Two hot wires go from terminal 87 of the relay to the each of the new lights.

• The other wire on the new lights goes to ground, any good ground to the frame will do.

• Connect one wire from the relay terminal 85 to ground (a wire can be run from the battery ground although it’s not necessary as long as it’s a good ground to the frame).

• One wire goes from terminal 86 on the relay to the middle position of the new switch.  

• From the EXISTING high-beam wire near the connection on the back of the head light bulb (you may be able to find another spot to tap into this) run a wire to the new switch high position.

• The low position on the new switch connects to the EXISTING parking lamp wire just behind the head light (you can tap into other spots for this one).<