The Cable FAQ - Classic and GS/Dakar
compiled & edited by Kristian #562; updated by Scott ID, #1244
Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.

Stiff or Non-engaging Clutch
Throttle Cable Play
Broken Throttle Cable
Preventing Broken Throttle Cable (GS/Dakar)
Tach (rev Counter) not working? See Tachometer Cable
Easy Throttle Cable Replacement
Clutch Cable Knurled Screw Tip
Stuck Choke
My Clutch Cable Broke. What is the Story with these Two Different Clutch Cable Part Numbers for the GS Clutch
What is the Story with these Two Different Throttle Part Numbers for the GS Throttle
Cable Hook Getting Loose
What should I look for if the Throttle Cable is stiff?
Speedo Cable Replacement
GS/Dakar Speedo Erratic or Not Working? See this FAQ
Looking for Speedo Calibration Information? See this FAQ
Correct GS Clutch Cable Routing?
Stiff GS/Dakar Throttle Cable?

For Replacement Clutch Levers (On Handlebar) refer Aftermarket Levers FAQ.

Stiff or Non-engaging Clutch
by Flash 412 (CO)

The other day my clutch started acting funny. It didn't seem to want to engage properly.

I adjusted the cable at the handlebar for more free play and it seemed to work reasonably well. But the engagement was SOMETIMES non-linear and jerky. Other times it was as smooth as always. I figured that maybe one of the metal strands in the cable had come loose and was sometimes catching. Since I had a spare cable, I figured I would change it out. When I got both ends loose, I inspected them each for as far as I could pull out the inner cable core. Nothing visibly wrong. I pushed the core back and forth in the sheath and compared that to the feel of the new cable... no difference. Hmmm.

Recalling that at the 30k service, well over 1500 miles ago, I had elected to neglect to lube the cable pivots "until later," I figured that maybe now was later. It was. The clutch lever was rough on the bottom side where it contacts the perch. I dressed it with a file, cleaned it well and then treated each and every possible friction surface to a generous coating of powdered graphite, rubbed in. Reassemble in reverse order.

Now it is as smooth as butter.

While I had the little tube of powdered graphite out, I did the same for the brake lever (being careful not to lose my druckstuck in the process).

Throttle Cable Play

by Kristian #562 & Todd#389

Q. What is the Throttle Cable Play and how do I adjust it.?
A. The GS Manual notes 1mm (0.04 in) for those who like it exact.

The Classic Manual says 1..2mm. Spakur #1117's German Manual for the Classic, an (Aftermarket) Repair Handbook specifies 1-2 mm of throttle play.
The adjustment is under the rubber nib under the RH Instrument Cluster, just after the bend. Undo the Lock NUT, tighten up the slack using the adjustor (threaded tube) and just nip (Not too much force, it's a FINE thread !!) the lock-nut back up against the adjustor. Tighten up the slack, and with the bike idling, swing the bars from side to side, if the revs change, the cable is either routed wrongly, or the throttle is too tight.
In a carbed bike there should always be enough slack to make a slight clunk at the carb end when releasing the throttle. Unless you've taken the carb's apart and misadjusted the linkages, this should mean that the carb slides are bottoming out. If they don't touch down, the cable is always under tension (bad for wear), and you will have trouble controlling the idle speed.
At small arc rotations like that 1mm on a circumference is near as dammit to 1mm on any plane.

Broken Throttle Cable (Classic)

by Kristian #562 & gar

There are TWO different retainers (holes) for the throttle cable end inside the Throttle Tube assembly. The first (closest to the front) is where the throttle cable actually goes. The second notch is for a return cable which is not a part of the throttle assembly of the Classic. My F-650 is the only bike I have owned newer than 1980 that does not have a push-pull throttle. Most Jap bikes (street, dirt bikes still have single pull) now have 2 throttle cables. The second (on OTHER Bikes) is a safety cable to pull the throttle cable closed if the open cable breaks and for some reason caused the throttle to stick open. The stock throttle tube (obviously from an outside supplier) has the notch for the second cable, I assume because it is easier and cheaper to sell something you already make and will work (i.e. push-pull) instead make a new part just to delete something that doesn't need to be deleted. If anyone knows the exact throttle cable tube off a Jap bike, the info would be useful.

The hole tends to wear fairly badly as well, if they are badly oval, it might pay to check the handgrip/throttle assembly before you make a big trip. On the Classic, undo the TWO Screws on the RH Instrument Cluster and gently prise the two Sides apart. NOTE the position of the Large Plastic Washer is INSIDE the Housing, up against the side of the Flange of the Plastic Throttle Tube. (If anyone can provide Photos for this FAQ I'd be grateful .k)

My lower (front) retainer broke, so as a temporary measure I put it in the upper one. I had to hacksaw a gap in the slot between them to make the cable fit properly otherwise it kinks up over the divider. You'll know what I mean when you see it. Like this it is inherently weak, so you can't use it for long.

For those of you who yank the throttle all the way to the stops, THAT is not good for it. So if your neighbours 15 year old son does it one day you might want to ask him to desist. Not having one in Downtown traffic or worse on the road is not fun, but repairable (as above) with a hacksaw or a knife (but it's HARD Plastic), and a Screwdriver to get the instrument cluster apart.

Broken GS Throttle (GS/Dakar)
by Haakon #626

Q. Does anyone know the right part number for an '01 Dakar throttle cable? The dealer had two different cables that were slightly different lengths (about 10mm) and they didn't know which one was correct.

It appears that there are two different lengths of cable - for both the GS and GS/ Dakar.
For the Dakar: Part no: 32 73 2 345 552, shorter length 117 mm cable is used with a "single cable disk" until FG ZF 62502. The same part no. for the GS (not the Dakar) is used up to 04/00.
The other, part no 32 73 7 660 040, length 127 mm only applies to "double cable disk". This is both for the GS and GS/ Dakar. On my throttle body there is only provision for one cable, as it is on/in the twist grip, but I have an early - pre 04/00 GS. Note the Parts database for part # 32 73 7 660 040, actually notes that the OLD PART NUMBER is 32 73 2 345 552, so it would appear that cable is now superseded on later model bikes, however it also notes it is not exchangeable retroactively, so if you have an old Dakar/GS you have to use the shorter cable.

What does FG ZF 62502 mean?

Z means Exchange, Retroactive Exchange, Utilization of Both Old & New Part Possible.

(I think) I know what a single cable/double cable disc is. My '01 Dakar has TWO holes for the end of the throttle cable in the plastic disc attached to the throttle body. One of them lines up with the cable, and the other one is off to the side by maybe a half-inch or so. If you put the cable in the wrong one, you'll break your throttle cable. Robin #790

So the answer would appear to be:

1. Look at your throttle body for TWO holes.

2. Look at your throttle Tube (on the Handlebar for Two Holes).

3. Determine if your Bikes MANUFACTURE DATE is older than 04/00.

If yes to any of those questions, you need part # 32 73 7 660 040. Otherwise you need Part no: 32 73 2 345 552.

Preventing Broken Throttle Cable (GS/Dakar)
by Scott ID, #1244

Many of us have found the throttle cable to be frayed at the throttle body, where the cable leaves the cable housing. (This is often discovered during the 12k mile valve check.) Why does the cable fray here? Notice the hole where the cable passes through the plastic firewall. It is not lined up with the throttle cam. As a result, the cable housing approaches the throttle at an angle, and this causes rubbing against one side of the bare cable. (Note that this is conjecture at this point, but it appears plausible.) If you drill a new hole in the firewall, the cable housing will line up better with the throttle cam, and rubbing of the bare cable is minimized. See below picture for a before/after comparison (the green line shows the preferred routing; notice a new hole has been drilled to the right of the original hole):

Easy Throttle Cable Replacement

Unknown

12/12/01

If any one of you has ever had to replace a throttle cable, you know that the BMW manual states that you should remove the fuel tank. (Classic.)

Over the weekend I replaced my throttle cable WITHOUT removing the fuel tank. It was actually quite easy.
When we removed the old cable, we attached a small chord to the carb end of the old throttle cable using electrical tape.
Then, we used the old cable to pull the chord up under the gas tank, and to the triple tree.
When we were ready, we used some electrical take to attach the carb end of the new cable to the chord we had pulled up with the old throttle cable.
We had no trouble pulling the new cable under the gas tank with the chord.
What looked like a 1-1/2 hour job, ended up taking about 15 minutes.

Clutch Cable Knurled Screw Tip

David #1060

14/12/01

Good tip (learned from experience): Always keep the 'slot' in the cable adjuster away from the cable inner movement path. If the cable inner rubs against this the sharp edges soon cut through the cable.

Stuck Choke

Norm#874
Q. My Choke Lever is Stuck. What can I check.?
A. See if the the screws holding the left-hand switch module on the handlebar are too tight - I did that and caused the switch to stop moving freely.

My Clutch Cable Broke. What is the Story with these Two Different Clutch Cable Part Numbers for the GS Clutch

Classic Riders: If you're Classic Cable FEELS broken it may not be. It might be this instead.

GS/Dakar Riders: Some riders have reported prematurely breaking Clutch Cables on early GS Dakars, as follows:

Haakon #626. The old one -32 73 7 650 222 was phased out 20.07.2001. The new one - 32 73 7 661 757 is much softer. The inner cable is made with a lot more, thinner, strands. It does not come with the rubber "boot" at the clutch end. It feels like the new one is easier to operate, probably due to the "softer" inner and the all over more supple design. When you keep the old cables in situ as spares, remember to lubricate them and close protect the open ends to keep dust and water out.

Manual says "CLUTCH CABLE 32 73 7 650 222" for the GS. I'm told it has changed. Parts centre has given me 32 71 7 661 757 but the cable looks too long. Richard
I had mine changed under warranty, and would assume that the part number has been modified to reflect this. Apparently there was a problem with some cables. RDW
The old cable has a fairly severe bend in it just upstream of the left-side cases. Mine broke at 8K miles, was replaced under warranty by the new cable. Don't have the bike handy, so I can't check the part numbers, but your experience sounds like the shop's doing the right thing. Don't know if you have a GS or a classic, but there was a problem with the design of the clutch cable on early GS's. There was a rather sharp bend in the cable sheath right before the cable attached to the LS cases. Mine went at about 8500 miles, and was replaced by the new part, which has a nice gentle curve instead of the sharp bend. It was covered by warranty. Robin #790.
Has anyone had a problem with their clutch cable breaking? Mine broke, not at one of the ends but in the middle. This is on my 2001 650GS. Of course I wanted it fast. It is very difficult to ride without a clutch cable. honeybrk
Yep. Haven't seen much lately, but remember this as pretty common last year. Doesn't snap, but frays one strand at a time. Shelley in NM.
I don't leave the driveway without a spare clutch cable. Was stuck in Moncton, NS in Sept for a day and a half because of a broken cable----- lesson learned. bmwterrien2.
When I tour, I carry a spare clutch cable and a pair of levers, among other stuff. Being stranded for a cable or levers is just dumb, IMHO. Those things break if someone knocks your bike over in a parking lot. They each take about five minutes to replace and almost no space to carry. INSTALL the new one and zip-tie the old one for a good-used spare. Flash #412
I went out and bought a spare clutch cable. Turns out I have one of the "bad" cables on my '01. I ran into PQBON at the dealer and he suggested I just zip tie the new one along side the old one. I was sceptical but I gave it try and sure enough there is just enough room to do this. Sure I could carry it in luggage but I don't always use luggage and the cables are pretty stiff. So now I have a new one ready to go. All I have to do is remove one zip tie (keeps it up out of the way on the engine end) and the bits of plastic and electrical tape keeping the ends sealed. After recently replacing my throttle cable because I found it was frayed I thinking I should do the same for that one too. May be out of room though. It is very tight where the cables go over the radiator over flow tank. I think the new cables are better, or so I'm told. In fact, the old one never parted on me any way so I'm not in the market for an alternative. I "installed" the new one and left the old one in place as a spare. As Kristian asked, I'll say I find clutch pull with the new cable noticeably easier. May just be that it is better lubricated. Makes no difference if I bind them up in a full left lock turn of the handlebars either. BG#1002
I just put on the new cable. As bg, the old one never parted on me any way so I'm not in the market for an alternative. I also find the clutch pull with the new cable noticeably easier. NIGHT & DAY easier. As good if not if not better than the Classic. Kristian #562
On my way to McDonalds for my senior coffee my clutch cable snapped! Only 36,250 miles. I think that was the first clutch cable I have ever had break on a bike. My dealer didn't charge me any labor, just the cost of the part so I don't feel too bad. Dave # 717.

Q. Can I ride without it to get home?
A. It's really not hard to ride without a clutch cable. Just shift the bike with your left foot as normal. I've done it a lot when things break off-road. (well a few times anyways). And I've ridden the F a long way on road this way as well. Have to plan the stops in local traffic and hit the kill switch a few times but otherwise it's do-able. That being said, you should have already had stock of these in your garage. It doesn't cost much to have at least one basic spare for your bike at the ready. Order it in advance and use it when you need it. 4-5 days is also ridiculous. They should be able to get this overnight on VOR. (Vehicle off Road). Who says that you need to be in first and go through neutral to get to second.? Start the bike in neutral, a bit of revs, then click it into second. Stopping at stop lights, put it into neutral as well. Without a clutch cable your bike isn't in "normal operating mode" so you have to adapt, adjust, and overcome the issues. DHP #711

What is the Story with these Two Different Throttle Cable Part Numbers for the GS Throttle?

Cable Hook Getting Loose

Q. Around the Classic Ignition Lock, there is a double hook of metal that holds the cables running from the handlebars down to the engine. This thing sometimes gets loose, and loses one or both of the two bolts. However they doesn't seem to be replaceable. Any ideas ?

Refer the Ignition Switch FAQ for details.

What should I look for if the Throttle Cable is stiff?

Symptoms

I noticed today some unusual drag on the throttle at the beginning of the twist. It was there much of the time but not always and didn't seem to depend on how the bars were turned. This is probably a Teflon lined cable housing, but does it get lubed as per the older types? Is the drag likely in the twist grip itself? Bike is a classic with 9k miles.

Teflon lined cables shouldn't be lubed. The reason is that the lubricant may make the Teflon lining swell and pinch the cable. Oyvind #1052
The heated grips can cause binding on the throttle. Maybe that's it. echo
Maybe it's time to just replace it? I found mine frayed near the FI body despite not noticing any problems prior to that. That was at around 12K miles. If you can do it yourself the cable for the newer model is only $15. Brad, N. CA., 2001 F650GS - Inmate #1002
It might be the plastic on the throttle tube where the cable end slots into it giving up the ghost and bending so it rubs inside the housing. Undo the two screws on the housing to check. WATCH for where the Plastic Washer goes! There is a weakness caused by using two holes with a small thin bit of plastic in between. Throttling back against the stop causes it to bend out of whack. I had to replace mine at 43,000km's. At a pinch you can use the other hole bit you have to file down the bit in between or the cable doesn't fit. It's not meant as an auxiliary. Kristian#562

Speedo Cable Replacement
by Todd #389 & Flash #412 (CO)

Speedometer not working?

WAG? 70% likely it's the cable insert, 20% odds on either (top or bottom) gearbox, 10% it's the actual speedo - unless the bike was in an accident and the speedo was damaged internally..... or it could be the cable just vibrated loose at the top end. To fix the Cable, undo the speedo cable and pull out the inner core from the top. All 3 feet of the inner core should slide right out. If it is not working I'd suspect that the inner core is broken. If it's a problem internal to the speedo, like the cogs or magnetic cup, you'll likely have to send that out for repair. If it IS just the core... see if you can get a universal one from a cage bits place.

Correct GS Clutch Cable Routing?

Q. I just got my bike back from the dealer after a radiator replacement. The clutch cable is now routed differently. Before it was routed behind the radiator, now it is in front of the radiator. Is this a new preferred routing? Or did the mechanic install the new radiator without any regard to cable routing? Now, there seems to be a *very* tight fit where the lower-radiator-hose, radiator shroud, and side cover come together. Although the clutch may have less bending, it pops the side cover out of the lower rubber grommet. This just doesn't seem right. Does anyone have their clutch cable routed in front of the radiator? If so, would you describe the routing? Raymo #1173 Chicago '01GS

Answers:

My '02 GS clutch cable is routed to the right of the ignition, down through the triple, above the radiator, over the coolant tank, and to the engine. Sounds like you were visited by the "bonehead BMW tech gods." Rod, CO '02GS
My 02 Dakar came with the cable routed the way you describe it now -- "after." I rerouted it to what looked like a more logical route, which is what you describe as "before." I had similar concerns to yours. I would recommend rerouting it. DakotaDakar#1198
I pulled my radiator out a while ago. After putting it all back together it was quite apparent that I had forgotten to correctly route the clutch cable. Had to start again. Almost certainly your mechanic did the same, its an easy mistake to do. He should fix it for you. There is a photo in my owners manual which if you look closely clearly shows the correct route. Good luck. Ratso
Next.

Broken Plastic Nut at Carb?

This happens if you do it up too tight after reconditioning the carb or even just removing it. It's a PLASTIC nut. It's happened to a few folks. You may be able to get a USED one from www.motorworks.co.uk or a wreckers. See the Carb Clean FAQ

Broken Angled Steel Tube at Throttle?

This happens from Normal wear and Tear.

Tach (rev Counter) not Working?
by Flash 412 (CO)

The classic speedo cable is at the front wheel. The Tach cable is just to the rear of the clutch shaft on the left side of the motor. However, the cable housing may have come unscrewed from the instrument at the other end. Undoing the instrument end allows you to withdraw the cable from the sheath. Should you find your inner cable indeed broken, it is possible to purchase universal speedometer cable repair kits at any auto parts place. I will guess that one of those would cost a LOT less than a BMW part. (Be sure to take BOTH parts of your broken cable with you if you decide to save some money.) Also, inspect your cable sheath carefully for kinks. If it has one, then your replacement will not last a very long time. In any case, use some white lithium grease on it before you stuff the cable back into the sheath.

Cost: US$20.17 in 3Q '00 from BMW.
To I think what I will do is yank the cable at the clutch and if it comes out coat it with MoS2 grease and shove it back in. If it won't come out, I'll dump some Lockease graphite solution into the cable and hold it up for a while until it dries to lube the cable. I have been doing this to my motorcycle speedo and tach cables for years and have yet to have one break.

Stiff GS/Dakar Throttle Cable?

Q. The throttle on me Dakar seems very stiff and always has. Is this a common issue for others? Also as the throttle is first applied it is very hard to get a sensitive response (i.e.. small increase in revs) and the engine revs will go from 1500-1600 straight up to about 2100 RPM. Is this just a characteristic of the model or ?

A. You have Hand Guards? Mine did the same thing. I removed the had guard and noticed that there was nothing to prevent it form binding when you tightened the screw that hold the guard on. I added a small washer on on the screw against the bar and retightened. All is loose and works fine no problems.

The Cable FAQ - Classic and GS/Dakar compiled & edited by Kristian #562; updated by Scott ID, #1244 Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.

Stiff or Non-engaging Clutch by Flash 412 (CO)