The Very Strange Noises FAQ

by Kristian #562 (20/10/01)
Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.
Last Updated: 18 Feb 2007, by Winter #1935

• My Bike seems to make a Strange Noise. How can I fix it?
• Do you have a short list to help me?
• So what does it sound like and where does it come from? (list of noises)
• Other Comments / Hints - to help you find the noise
• What Should I Mention in the Forums? (So we can help you)
• What is the Mechanics Stethoscope?

For other helpful FAQs:

• Hard Starting / Poor Running FAQ
• Troubleshooting FAQ

There a number of common sources of Noise on the F650. If you're looking for Vibrations see this FAQ.

The table below should help guide you to your noise. However if you can not find it based on the table, read through all the noises.

• Noise 1 - Clicking from mid-lower Front Forks - As yet unidentified. When replacing the fork gaskets you have to remove the spring in the fork. And you can put in the spring "upside" down, one end of it is thicker than the other and this end has to be up (into direction of the upper fork bridge or better: the driver). Maybe someone didn't know that fact (even the man who assembled it somewhere in Italy).
  
  
• Noise 2 - Clicking when Steering Turned see the Steering Head Bearings FAQ or Handlebar Clamps BUT try first tightening the Tighten Steering Head Nut (in Middle) or Handlebar Riser Mount Bolts.
  
  
  • Feedback #1 I had the same problem two years ago. I too thought that it was the steering bearings. It turned out to be loose mounting bolts under the upper triple clamps which fasten the handlebar mounts to the clamp. When they loosen, in addition to letting the bars wiggle a bit too much, they can make a clicking noise when you brake to a stop. There are two bolts, a jam bolt and a tightening bolt. They are hard to reach without a deep socket or using a tool that is not supposed to be used on bolts. The torque value is low, only about 14 NM I think, to keep the rubber mounts from compressing too much.
    
    
  • Feedback #2. Check the main nut for the head bearing shaft. It is on top of the triple clamp and under the handle bars. I put up with this "sound" for months after the dealer adjusted the steering head. Although I couldn't move the nut with my hands, as soon as I put a socket (1 1/8" [26mm]) on it I could turn it with my hand. After tightening the nut with lots of force on a 1/2" drive socket wrench the "sound" went away. It was loose.
    
    
  • Feedback #3 I also put up with the clicking for a while until I tightened the steering head lock nut. On my '97 the nut is 30mm. I was told to torque it down to 30ft-lb but it loosened up again, so went for 50 ft-lb and that seems to have done the trick.
    
    
• Noise 3 - Rattling from Engine at Idle Possibly Compression Releaser Turn up your idle a notch. If its occurs at low rpm, especially when not fully warmed up, it is the centrifugal de-compressor. It's a fairly regular click - means it's about to engage because the engine is turning over too slowly. If it is happening above 1500 rpm, there's a problem. If it's just the de-compressor, assuming it's had basic maintenance and oil changes, unless you are going to get the valve clearances checked while you are in there, don't bother to open up the engine at all. If it's an OLD Bike, Could be Cam Chain Rattle, most probably caused by a fragged chain tensioner, rather than a worn timing chain. Refer the Cam Chain FAQ.
  
  
• Noise 4 - Brake Squeal See the Brake Squeal FAQ.
  
  
• Noise 5 - Buzzing sound from the front of bike (1997 F). The ignition and cable guide assembly maybe loose and missing one of the two bolts that attaches it to the under side of the triple clamp (upper). Check that your ignition switch assembly isn't loose. Makes a really annoying rev. dependent rattle that sounds like something loose in the valve train. Pete. Ignition Switch FAQ.
  
  
• Noise 6 - A very noisy cam chain will be the sound of the "plink plink" of the chain smacking it's housing during trailing throttle and after throttle blips while idling. But the F has a hydraulically tensioned cam chain, it would be very unlikely for it to be loose.
  
  
• Noise 7 - Ignition Mount/Cable Guide "Just got back from lunch about a mile away. On the way there I heard a buzzing sound from the front of bike (1997 F). When I stopped to look around I found that the ignition and cable guide assembly was loose and missing one of the two bolts that attaches it to the under side of the triple clamp (upper). I tightened the remaining bolt and now need to get a new bolt. You might want to add this to your list of things to check occasionally." Ignition Switch FAQ.
  
  
• Noise 8 - When I try to start my bike there is a "Tic Tic Tic" sound coming from the Solenoid, (Large Round Object just Rear of the Battery on the Airfilter Cover with two big red wires coming out of it). What is that?. See the Battery FAQ for details. Read it carefully. Your battery may just need water, if you caught it in time, but you might already have ruined it running it dry, so first try and refill it with distilled water, push start your bike and ride it for a good 20min-1/2 hour to recharge it. If it is still dead after that your battery is probably fried. On these bikes (esp. the Classics), you need to check the battery water OFTEN. The Starter solenoid clicks when it doesn't have enough power to turn the engine over OR if your Airbox fills with enough Gas or Oil, that it can leak down into the cylinder and stop the engine turning over. Your battery MAY also have died due to the charging system overcharging. See the VR FAQ for more info. Note: Attempting to start your bike with a low or failing battery is a really bad idea because there is a real risk of the starter solenoid contacts welding closed due to low voltage arcing. If this happens you will have to disconnect the battery (because the permanently closed solenoid contacts will crank your battery dry) and either replace or repair the starter solenoid.
  
  
• Noise 9 - Farting and a loud popping from the front of the bike. Possibly Blown Exhaust Gaskets. Recently went to replace gasket where header pipe meets cylinder head. After pulling left header pipe I found culprit of noise, blown out header pipe to collector gasket. This was a corrugated sleeve that failed under the clamp. Replacement gasket is no longer corrugated. Added bonus was the commonly reported backfiring problem, I thought I had to live with, is now completely gone. Try this $11.00 fix if your bike is backfiring. See the Exhaust Gasket Replacement FAQ for details.
  
  
• Noise 10 - Making weird "wooo" noise when compressing the rear shock. Culprit: Humming rear brake calliper (wheel moves slightly when compressing the rear shock).
  
  
  • Solution: Stop compressing the rear shock and listening for silly noises, perhaps a little anti-seize on the back of the pads.
    
    
• Noise 11 - Rattling from the Chain Area. This could be poor Chain Tension, a Loose c/s Sprocket or a Chain Roller. See the Chain Sprockets FAQ. My missing chain tension roller caused a sort of rattling. This was on a '01 though. Sean-STL
  
  
• Noise 12 - Rattling from the Front of the Bike. I've had a rattle from the from end of my F for the past couple of months. Very annoying and I couldn't locate the source. I went for a ride this morning, on the way back, stopped to fill up the bike. Stop, put bike in neutral, reach forward to turn the ignition off .... That's odd, I could have sworn there was an ignition switch there when I started the ride. *grin* Well, at least I found my rattle. The switch assembly hadn't fallen very far, and no damage was done. $1.20 and a couple of new Allen screws and it was all back together. Pete
  
  
• Noise 13 - Front of Bike Rattle - For six weeks I rode half leaning out of the seat, because it really sounded as though the rattle was coming from under me. Poked around everywhere. Then finally one day getting on it I turned the handlebars while they were still locked, and noticed the whole ignition assembly jump around. Looked underneath, only one bolt left of two, and it was just about out as well. Six weeks for new bolts, still waiting. Likewise a grin, because I felt silly spending all the time looking completely the wrong place. Aleksander in Dubai
  
  
• Noise 14 - LHS Side Rear Rattle - At one point the aluminum foil under the left rear plastic piece---it protects against heat from the muffler--it was loose and made a little noise as it moved around. Bill No.391. See Exhausts Heatshield.
  
  
• Noise 15 - Front of Bike Rattle - The large nut under the handle bars. Loosen the top pinch bolts on the fork tubes and re-torque the Steering Head Nut (in Middle). Mine has come loose a couple times. Re-torque the pinch bolts to 25nm. Steve#417. See the section Triple Tree & Handlebar Clamp Replacement in the Steering Head Bearing Replacement FAQ for how to do it up.
  
  
• Noise 16 - Rear LHS Rattle. Check the bolt that secures the muffler to the frame. Above muffler, below seat. Rear Exhaust Bolt Location Marty #436
  
  
• Noise 17 - Update on Popping when shifting. I posted a message about 3-4 weeks ago about our 97 F650ST popping when shifting from 3rd to 4th. My 97 F650ST has gotten a popping noise the last 1500 miles sometimes when shifting from 3rd to 4th. It happens about 1 of 4 times or so. It has happened a few times from 2nd to 3rd. It happens when the clutch lever is in all the way (disengaged) and after the shift lever is shifted just before letting out the clutch. I checked the front sprocket and it seems fine. I've adjusted the chain and lubed it. Still is there at times. Bike has 13,000 miles and I looked in the FAQ and couldn't find anything similar. There is not a vibration when this happens but the sound seems to be coming from the front of the bike in the area of the front sprocket (maybe) or maybe a little further back, not from rear of chain. Chain is original. Any ideas anyone. Thanks. UPDATE: Kristian guessed that maybe the chain was hitting from the slack being taken out in a hurry. I think that is what it was, as we just replaced the chain and sprockets (See the Chain Sprockets FAQ) and the popping is gone. Thanks, Kristian. DaveJ#888(Hannibal,MO)
  
  
• Noise 18 - 01 Dakar 650 clunk clunk clunk Front end noise? I have developed a front end noise @ about 4k mostly offroad miles it sounds like my whole headlight assembly is about to fall off but nothing I can find is loose. Could this be from the forks themselves?. Try checking for play in the steering head bearings. Also, are you running an ABS machine? People describe the ABS activation/reset as a "clunk". Maybe you're hearing that. Advrider
  
  
• Noise 19 - A while back I posted about this rattle that I had. It seemed to be up front and only at certain load/vibration conditions. This sound went away when I slid the front forks down and took off the lowering kit. I did not notice any bolts that were loose when I did this but the sound none the less is gone. Don - Rochester, NY
  
  
• Noise 20 - Transmission rattle, 2001F650GS Dakar, 4500 miles. It sounds like there is a lose set of "jingling" keys in my transmission. The is very subtle, and only occurs when I am in gear and moving. Anyone have any ideas? At first I thought the front disc or caliper was lose, but that was not it. Michael 1045 (Cause Unknown).
  
  
• Noise 21 - Buzzing From around the Fairing/Speedo Area. Electrical/Speedo Problem? GS/Dakar Only- Q. I do most of the work on my bikes but the electrical systems are not my bag. I recently replaced the battery on my 01 GSA (Which I purchased used) positive first then negative and when I connected the new battery the Tach made several rapid clicks for about 5 seconds. After that, the speedo made four short clicks every 15 seconds for about 5 minutes. You can just barely tell that the speedo and Tach are moving during the clicking. Is this normal? I'm guessing not. The bike seems to run fine. Any thoughts? Thanks for any feedback.
  
  
  • Answer: It's quite Normal. See the Speedo ABS Sensor FAQ
    
    
• Noise 22 - Feedback #1 When I'm pulling from 2500-3500 in 3rd upwards I have a strange metallic rattle from the engine. Any ideas anyone HELP. It seems that if I open it hard the noise reduces. It is when I am trying to be frugal with the fuel and just have low throttle twist. It could be mix but it sounds very loud (please forgive me as I have only just returned to bikes so everything seems loud, GREAT but loud). The noise does not happen when revved at stand still only under load. It seems to come from the front of the engine as far as I can tell. Sounds almost like the piston is rattling under load and as the revs increase and the bike speed picks up the noise stops. I have no clue :-). UKRider
  
  
  • Feedback #2 I have (I think) the same symptoms as you describe on my 1995. On my bike it is evident in most gears (at least 2-4), but most often in third gear (at ~50km/h). It always happens in low rpm (like 2500-3500 or so) under acceleration (especially slow acceleration) and disappears after a few seconds. The sound also goes away as soon as you engage the clutch (pull it in). The sound looks like it is coming from beneath the engine, so first I thought it was one of the stands that was vibrating. The problem has been there since last summer (about 7-8000Km ago). I started to notice it when I was travelling offroad in Iceland. I have not yet figured out what the problem is. I have done the 60.000Km service this autumn (after the trip to Iceland) and I couldn't find the source to the problem then. I am starting to think that it could have something to do with the chain, since I changed my chain in the beginning of last summer and the chain has some really tight spots and some which are very loose spots (bad chain or perhaps to much gravel has killed it?). If you find out what it is I'd be very interested in knowing what it was. When I get back home (later this month) I'll take a look at the problem again, and checking all the reasons listed in the Strange Noise FAQ. Another thought that struck me was that it could perhaps be the cam chain, but there is no problem at idle, where the cam chain problem (I think) is most often noticed. Spakur
    
    
  • Answer 1: My 97 F650 had a mechanical noise at low rpm from the time it was new. The noise was a sort of rattling, and seemed to quiet as rpms increased. I wrote it off as a characteristic of the engine. The first time I had to replace a valve ship (at 20,000 miles), I found that the spacer in the cam spring lightener was installed backwards from what was shown in the service manual. When I installed the spacer as shown in the manual the noise disappeared...My theory is that the shape of the spacer results in slightly more cam chain slack if it's installed backwards. Traverse City John Refer the Cam Chain FAQ. (It was the Cam Chain Tensioner).
    
    
  • Answer 2: Check that your ignition switch assembly isn't loose. Makes a really annoying rev. dependent rattle that sounds like something loose in the valve train. Pete
    
    
• Noise 23: Unusual sound. My 98 F650 appears to display defective behavior. The symptoms are as fallows: an unusual, gargle sound after downshifting (after clutch release), rapid acceleration or rapid deceleration, the sound appears to originate and/or surface in the exhaust. I have also noticed a slight decrease in overall power performance. Jacek. See the Exhaust Gasket Replacement FAQ.
  
  
• Noise 24: Knocking when in neutral, clutch engaged. Gets Faster as Idle Raised. Actual cause unknown, but it could be the Compression Releaser Turn up your idle a notch or the Cam Chain; Refer the Cam Chain FAQ.  It might be Valves; See also Engine FAQ ;-).
  
  
• Noise 25: Engine Knock. A loud knock that doesn't go away off-idle is quite likely the big-end rod bearing. If your bike is still under warranty and the dealer doesn't want to do anything about the knock, INSIST that he give you written, DATED, documentation about the complaint and that his "solution" was to "wait and see." As Shank sez, when it comes to problems and the dealer sez, "Wait and see." what that really means is, "Let's WAIT until your warranty expires and then SEE how much you'll pay to get this fixed." Flash #412
  
  
• Noise 26: My bike makes a humming sound when under load. It sounds like a domestic feline purring, then silence, then purring again. Frequency: 1-2 Hz. I've never heard it when riding solo (so far), or when idling. It's not noticeable in 1st or 2nd gear while 2-up, but you can almost tell it's there in 3rd, with a bit of imagination. 4th and 5th, while riding 2-up, especially at lower rpms and in upward slopes, it's definitely there. As soon as the engine is under a lot of load. I haven't been able to tell whether the frequency of the sound is related to engine speed or road speed. It does not go over 2 Hz, though, even when riding FAST. It's "on" for half a second, "off" for another half second, "on" ag ain, etc. While it's "on", it sounds like a friendly cat. I've tried adjusting and lubing the chain. Didn't help, but afaict it's pretty worn so it might get better if I get a new one (along with new sprockets). I haven't checked the front tire, but the rear doesn't have any foreign objects stuck to it (checked while lubing chain). veggie_deluxe
  
  
  • Answer: Maybe your chain has streched unevenly. balam (See the Chain and Sprockets FAQ)
    
    More Details: I'm pretty sure it has. I'm going to replace it (along with the sprockets) as soon as my economy allows me to. But would an unevenly stretched chain really cause such a low rate of change to the noise? I mean, in 4th and 5th gear I'm going >70 kph. I'm not going to do any mathematical calculations here, that would just give me an even worse headache, but I'm guessing the chain would rotate quite quickly at that speed. Perhaps it's a combination of unevenly worn sprockets and unevenly stretched chain.
    
    
  • Answer: I agree. And here's why... if you assume that a 17" rim has a TIRE diameter of about 20" then multiplying by Pi gets you 62.8" which is 5.24 feet. A mile is 5280 feet. Let's just assume that the circumference of the tire is 5.28 feet or 1/1000 mile. At 60 mph, you're going one mile per minute, or 1000 revolutions of the rear wheel per minute. Divide by 60 to get about 17 revs per second. If you have a hairlipped link getting caught in a combination of front and rear sprocket wear spots every 8 rotations, that gives about a 2Hz repetition of SOMETHING. Flash #412
    
    
• Noise 27: After the valve job, my bike is acting really weird. Now when the key switch is turned to off, I can hear a rythmic clicking sound coming from the instrument panel!!!! I am still experiencing great difficulty in starting the bike cold. When I turn the key switch to on and then to off, after a second, I can hear a strange sound comming from the injector's area (not the familiar sound comming from the rear when you turn the key on). The sound is like something electromechanical shutting off. I don't remember hearing this sound before. (see also Noise 28) balam
  
  
  • Feedback 1: The clicking could also be the Starter Solenoid (Next to the battery). What causes that is a Low Battery. Check your Terminals and check the battery once more. You did refill it only with distilled water right? Kristian #562 (See the Battery FAQ
    
    
  • Feedback 2: actually, it doesn't have to be a weak battery. If, for some reason, the engine just won't crank (in my case it was a cylinder-full of gas), you'll get the same symptom. veggie_deluxe
    
    
  • Answer: The engine has automatic decompression lever on one of the valves, that opens the valve when the engine is stopped.Sometimes the lever does not fall into place and all the valves are closed, that causes the lockup during cranking, or when the starter has to overcome the compression, you get too much current draw, and the voltage drops below normal, thus resetting the computer.That will cause clicking, ABS noise, hard starting... Just make sure your battery is always charged up, and clean connections. Pooshkin
    
    
• Noise 28: OK, thanks. Now that takes care of the clicking, but what about the other sound? The one that I can hear at the injection module? I sounds a second after I turn off the key and the way I'd describe it is like an electrical antenna going down in a car after you turn off the stereo... I know there is no antenna in there it just sounds a bit like that to me... balam
  
  
  • Feedback: I went out in the garage and turned the key on and then off. About a second after turning off the key mine makes the " antenna going down" sound also. I had never really noticed it before. Maybe you just have a case of -I worked on my bike and now I'm nervous i did something wrong. Best cure is to just go for a ride. The bike will let ya know if it's happy or not. Tom McCallum
    
    
• Noise 29: Sometimes I hear a noise, which I believe comes from the engine. I haven't dug any deeper into the location of the sound yet, but I have found this: The noise is a scraping mid frequent noise, and has about one evolution per second when the bike is idling. The noise is only audible sometimes when I start the bike (1 of 5-10 times) and it always disappears when the engine gets hot (after a few minutes that is). The noise is audible when I start the bike in neutral. It also accelerates along with the engine when I put the bike in gear and ride off. The noise has been there for the last 6 months and 3-4000km or so. The problem was evident before the last time I changed the oil and at that time I didn't find anything strange in the drain plug. The noise only appears once in a while and then only for a minute or two before the bike gets hot. spakur #1117
  
  
  • Feedback: cam-chain or it's tensioner (Trevor #999), Starter sprague clutch (Flash #412), automatic decompressor (Richard #230).
    
    
  • Answer: Unknown / not provided.
    
    
• Noise 30: My 4 year old 16,000 mile F650 GS has suddenly and inexplicably started making an odd noise: a 'tick-tick-tick-tick' that's louder than the engine at tickover but gets drowned out at around 3000rpm. My friendly local bike courier says it's the tappets [ed: the F650 has shims, not tappets], which makes vague sense to me. oldben
  
  
  • Answer 1: Thanks for the advice. Guide rail tensioner was the official verdict from the garage. oldben [ed: See also the Cam Chain FAQ
  • Answer 2: It could just be a fragged tensioner. Flash 412 (CO)
• Noise 31: Between us - we are around 330 pounds - my 210 driving and his 120 as GIB (Guy In Back). We went through a left hand traffic circle (15 MPH) and something in the front scraped. A little while later turning left from a dead stop at a traffic signal another scraping sound from the front tire area. Both turns were accompanied by a slight amount of suspension travel but not a lot and the turns were very mild. The sound seemed as if it came from the upper right side of the front wheel but this is very speculative. I have not experienced this when driving solo and I could see nothing impinging on the front wheel. A2Trak
  
  
  • Answer: I'm with Motoplaner - especially if you have a factory lowered model. There's a service bulletin to explain how to fix the dragging side/centerstand (for the lowered model). Marty #436 [Ed: See also the Classic Lowering Kit FAQ or the GS Lowering Kit FAQ. For the service bulletin, see page 1 and page 2]
    
    
• Noise 32: when your bike stalls, does it make a loud noise? Where does it originate from. Is it the decompression release? I stalled mine in a mud hole with a passenger and that noise was much louder than normal. Now it makes kind of a crunch crunch sound when under load and @ a low rpm. (starting from a stop). I went over all of the external parts of the bike and found nothing loose, except the retaining clip for the sidestand, but that wasn't the origination of the noise. Hard for me to narrow down where the noise is coming from because I need to be moving to here it. gsatlanta
  
  
  • Solution 1: Oops, it was a very sloppily adjusted chain. Last time I adjusted, the lightbulb in the garage was out. gsatlanta
    
    
  • Solution 2: I'd wager it's the compression release. I trigger mine a lot off road, even with the 15/49 sprog set. Definitely before a stall. dlearl #476
    
    
  • Solution 3: Take a look at wheel bearings and the rear chain (sprocket) carrier bearing(s). They can definitely make crunch-crunch noises - probably louder crunches the more weight that is on them. You DON'T want to wait until they fail completely...
    
    
• Noise 33: ...hit the ignition and all the lights dimmed but it did try to turn over almost started (only had the starter button depressed for about 5-10 seconds which is usually plenty of time for it to fire). Released the button gave it a couple of seconds and tried again and got nothing at all when I pushed the starter. Also noticed that there was a buzzing coming from the front of the bike. Turned the key off, no buzzing, turn it back on without touching anything and it is back. Push the starter button and the buzzing stops and the lights dim. [ed: battery on recharger for 10hours]. If I turn the heated grips on the buzzing goes away as well (though I can see the lights dim a bit). This seems similar to Noise 8 though the noise goes away when I actually try to start it. The noise is coming from in front of and below the battery. apostate #1618
  
  
  • Answer 1: If your battery is carked, this can cause all sorts of possible things, including buzzing noises etc from relays. First of all you must eliminate the battery problem. jack
    
    
  • Answer 2: Well, off to buy a new battery. Tested battery with key off, 12V no problem. With key on dropped to 4V. With started pressed it dropped to 3V. Could have sworn I tested it with key on last night and got 11.9V but it was late.... apostate #1618 [Ed. See also the Hard Starting and Poor Running FAQ]
    
    
• Noise 34: The symptoms (see Noise 3: Rattling from Engine at Idle) are similar in that there is no noise above 1500 rpm and when the engine is warm. When the engine is cold and while it idles itself to warmth and 1500 rpm there is "Khat-Khat-Khat" sound than a "click". Once warm I don't hear anything abnormal. In a way it does sound like a solenoid/heavy relay. Seems to be coming from left side(gear lever side) of the engine. The engines done about 2000 miles. I've not known the bike to have been raced. arun
  
  
  • Answer: That "rattle-rattle-click" IS the compression release. If it does it at 1500 rpm, maybe your chain tensioner is bad or going bad. Maybe the plastic chain rails are worn. Maybe the oil is too thin. 3000 feet is nothing. Before you start messing with the carbs, give the bike a thorough service. Without a GOOD baseline, you can end up "adjusting" the thing into a horrible state. Flash #412
    
    
• Noise 35: My 97 F650ST makes a VERY strange noise when I pull through 4200-4500 RPMs in 4th and 5th gear. It also makes the noise occaisionally when I decelerate from about 65 mph to 60 mph. I'm running the highest octane I can find (BP gas). It seems to make the noise more AFTER it is warmed up. It does not make the noise when you rev in nuetral through those RPM's. The sound is something like a engine knock, chain rattle, keys in the cylinder sound. kraberry2
  
  
  • Feedback: First, DO NO USE HI-TEST FUEL. Run regular gas. Next, remove your cam chain tensioner. If it comes out in more than one piece, it is broken. Flash #412
    
    
• Noise 36: Starting about 100kms after oil change I have had what sounds to be a "plastic" type rattle (note: Temperatures today when rattle started were about 8C colder than yesterday when bike was fine). Sound may have been there longer since I tend to stick to > 4000rpm when riding, but I have not noticed it. The rattle has the same beat as the engine (ie 1 rattle for 1 rev from what I can guess). It occurs in lower gears from what I can tell (1st through 4th). It happens with clutch engaged, or dis-engaged, happens while in neutral. Always between about 3500rpm and 4500rpm. Occurs equally going up and down hill, accel or decel. [ed: Oil changed second time, rattle returned] Winter
  
  
  • Answer: The new improved tail latch / door (04 / 05 model GS) was causing the rattle. It just so happened I had put my drink down on the door, and that stopped it from rattling. Just to be sure I put everything back on the bike and took it out for a spin - sound was there. Removed the tail latch / door... sound gone. Used some foam. Winter
    
    
• Noise 37: Just like you I did an oil change. It was a fairly new bike with only 3000Km on the clock and was the second oil change since new. All was well for about 500km then I started to notice that the engine was making a bit more noise than usual. In my case it was loudest from about 2500rpm through to 5000rpm. Slowly, over the next 500km the noise increased in intensity and sounded a little bit like bad bottom end bearings. I did another oil change, just to satisfy myself that all was OK. Opened up the filter and it seemed pretty much normal for a new bike with only 4000km on it. Nothing improved with the new oil change. Over the next 200km the noise got even louder and was the worst when the engine was cold. My dealer guessed at the cam chain tensioner and replaced it. It actually did seem better when I picked it up but the noise was back the next day. Probably it was just really well warmed up when I got it back and the noise was less pronounced. The next morning it was real cold and real loud. Dealer took it back yet again and this time they open the engine to hunt down the problem. It took most of the day as all looked OK at first. Then on a whim the tech decided to actually mic the bores as well as the pistons and rings. PROBLEM FOUND!! Bario
  
  
  • Answer: The cylinder bore was well outside the maximum spec! Not by premature wear, the bore was quite nice. It was simply not right from day one at the factory. Although it was news to me the tech told me there is actually an "A" cylinder and rings and a "B" cylinder and rings, and mine were mismatched. I was surprised by this but the tech allowed me to view the parts in question and there was no doubt that the bore was too big for the piston/ring combo in my case. It was tight enough to go unnoticed when brand new but as it wore in a bit and loosend up the eror became apparent. Bario
    
    
• Noise 38: I have noticed on my last few months that a strange noise occurs from the front of the bike when I am at 30 to 35 mph. Best way to describe it is like this. If you put a metal ball in a cup and then shake it so the ball goes round and round. That is what it sounds like. I recently had my 6000 check and it happened before that. I forgot to mention it but I figured the mechanic would catch it. I am a little concerned. It sounds like it might be coming from under the speedometer or top of the fork. It makes the same sound whether in gear or with the clutch in. Bobcatou #1157
  
  
  • Feedback: Wheel bearings (jack up the bike, spin front wheel and listen), front wheel balance, check torque on the brake caliper mounting bolts, plastic / bodywork, cam chain tensioner, loose rocks on top side of bash plate...
    
    
  • Answer: (Unknown, not listed)
    
    
• Noise 39: I've experienced two occasions where it sounds like the engine (I'm assuming it's the engine - it may not be) is making a loud "grinding squeal" - that's the best way I can describe it. It happened once after attempting to start the bike after it stalled and happened again when I was actually riding on the highway and I was shifting down about to come to a stop. The bike is relatively new with only 250 miles on it so far. I know the manual says not to "slip the clutch" - I'm assuming that this means not to use the "friction zone". cheri
  
  
  • Feedback: make sure it's got oil and water (coolant), Check your rear caliper/brake assembly
    
    
  • Answer: (unknown, not included)
    
    
• Noise 40: When riding (01 F650GS) 2k miles. I have a rattle coming from the front area around the headlight or steering head. Rattle is only heard when riding over expansion joints or small potholes. Have checked various things but cannot find source of rattle. Just afraid something is going to fall off the bike. dgriffin #1696
  
  
  • Solution 1: [ed: someone else with similar noise found it was the windshield] I replaced the Dakar windscreen with one that does not use the normal mounting points. Riding offroad a few weeks ago in the Mojave National Preserve I could hear a noise like china plates banging around. Taking the front end apart I found the problem, there is a wing shaped piece of sheet metal that was no longer being anchored by the Dakar screen mounting screws. This part was bouncing around on top of the headlight. Jerrya
    
    
  • Answer: A while back I posted asking what could be rattling around up front on the bike? I received many answers, but none fixed the problem. I believe that the biggest problem was the fact that my bash plate and engine guard bolts were loose and after changing the oil in the bike I got all those bolts tight like they should be. dgriffin #1696
    
    
• Noise 41: So I'm leaving work yesterday and it sounds like a playing card is clothespinned to my wheel. The sound goes away by the time I get home. Last night I was heading out to eat and strange knocking sounds started coming from the bottom end. The knocking slows down as I slow down. Bangs a couple of more times when I stop. Seems to be from low on the right side. Generator? Clutch? Crank? Water pump? Fuel pump? I guess I'll find out soon enough. It's a '01 Dakar with 21,000 miles. I have noticed a buzzing noise lately as I pass a wall or something close on my right side. Almost a chain sound. Troutrider
  
  
  • Answer: I got to work this morning and sat down on the curb and took off the sprocket cover. While checking everything out I noticed that the chain roller was clunky and grooves were appearing on it. I've got 10,000 miles on the gold DID chain and it looks decent. I ordered a new roller assembly. Troutrider
    
    
• Noise 42: When I shut off my 01 GSthere is a noise sometimes. It kind of sounds like its coming from the starter. Its like something is releasing tension and it makes a big CLICK. Doesnt always do it though. Anybody know what that would be? echo
  
  
  • Answer: MAYBE it is the sprague clutch on the back of the flywheel. The starter spins the flywheel to start the motor. There is no mechanical solenoid to engage the starter with the flywheel. Instead, the gear on the "back" of the flywheel is "attached" with a one-way drive. The starter can spin the flywheel, but once the bike is running, that gear remains stationary as does the starter. Perhaps when your motor stops, sometimes it "stops" as it comes up on compression and then counter-rotates for a bit. If it did that, the motor WOULD be driving the starter for a quarter turn or so (at the crank). Flash #412
    
    
• Noise 43: Is it just my bike or can anyone else audibly hear the dual spark ignition firing at idle? I only notice it on start up if I'm not using enough choke. It's sounds like there is a lightning storm going on the cylinder until I add some more fuel to the mixture via additional choke. It must be too lean of a mixture combined with a cold combustion chamber? I can honestly audibly hear the snaps, crackle and pops going on. I have never heard this before on any other vehicle. Yes, I have brand new plugs NGK D8EA. Yes they are gapped properly. Yes the caps look great with no carbon buildup. Yes, the wires are even new. Yes, I have premium 91 octane fuel in the tank too. Yes, I would say the idle is quite low (probably under 1,000 RPM) when I hear this. The noise I'm hearing certainly doesn't sound mechanical. It really sounds like electrical arcing going on. I would think the compression relase would be more of a "mechanical" sound? Powder Blue
  
  
  • Feedback: Is the idle speed really low when you're not using enough choke? I think you're hearing the compression release lever whacking around in the head. It's quite disconcerting to hear this thing. As for hearing the spark, I'd have to hear it myself to believe it. [ed...] Idle should be around 1300-1400 anything lower is NOT GOOD for the engine. Yep, the compression release has a resounding "smack" to it, could sound electrical and it occurs at less than 1000rpm. Either way, get the idle up and try not to do stupid things to your engine. Shank
    
    
  • Answer: I rode in the frost again this morning and started to hear the noise as I reduced the amount of choke. I think the first respondant was right and it probably is the decompressor. Powder Blue
    
    
• Noise 44: the persistance of what I can only describe as a "mystery rattle" noise coming from somewhere in the front end of the motorcycle at speeds beween 30-50 mph. Regardless of whether I'm accelerating hard or just moseying on up the road, starting at right around 30 mph I start to hear what sounds like some sort of mechanically-induced, fairly consistent, rattling noise which seems to emmanate from somewhere within the instrument cluster/ windshield area. It's sorta hard to describe the noise accurately, as I'm always hearing it through my full coverage helmet and dealing with the wind noise generated at 30 mph. It almost sounds similar to the clicking/clacking noise made by a standard computer keyboard, or somewhat like a small plastic object being shaken gently inside of a 35mm film canister. The noise doesn't seem to be coming from anything in the suspension, as uneven road surfaces, potholes, etc. don't seem to affect it. timagination
  
  
  • Feedback 1: Don't know how the Dakar is set up in this regard, but check your headlight adjustment screw. On my '03 CS I had a rattle up front and it turned out that the adjusting mechanism had failed. Zeke BBG#26
    
    
  • Feedback 2: I get the cluster rattle from my garage door opener as well as the windshield mounts (ceebaileys) The windshield noise comes and goes, and the GD opener goes in the pocket on long hauls. gsatlanta
    
    
  • Feedback 3: [ed: Similar rattle] So, the first time, I took the entire front of the bike apart, searched for the culprit, found nothing, and put it all back together. Rattle gone. Sa-weet... Then it started happening again... I took it all back apart again, but this time I put black weather stripping in places where I assume the rattling could have been originating. Once I got it all weather stripped, I put it all back together again. This was about 3000 miles ago and no more rattle. billmallin #1629
    
    
  • Feedback 4: I have a similar rattle. It is a small piece of glass inside the headlight. The Headlights isn't FULLY busted, but a stone hit it just so that it whacked a chip of glass off the INSIDE of the Headlight Glass... Kristian #562
    
    
  • Feedback 5: Check to make sure space does in fact exist between ABS wheel speed sensor and wheel disc. Prop the front wheel up and spin it. Use a flashligh as I believe that .001" is the minimum space allowed. Then shim out appropriately. There exists a bolt and nut in the center of the frame just above the crash bars. I don't really know what this thing is supposed to do, but I found it loose and retorqued it. Make sure your or any chainguard hardware is securely attached. I'm missing a bolt on mine and it does rattle a bit. jetdocs550 #1546
    
    
  • Feedback 6: [similar noise] I have suspected it's a loose connector or wire flapping around due to the turbulence from backdraft, or maybe stray road wind coming up from underneath. Sadlsor #1444
    
    
  • Feedback 7: Upon further investigation I found that my headlight / dash pod assembly was being held on by two threads left on the one of two bolts that should have been holding it all together. New fastners from HD, lockwashers and locktite and all is quiet. damalden #1598
    
    
  • Feedback 8: My rattle was the ignition key switch held by two allen head bolts in the upper triple clamp. One bolt had fallen out the other was loose. (See also Noise 5, Noise 7, Noise 12, Noise 13, Noise 15) Chris in Santa Cruz, CA #782
    
    
  • Answer: tonight I was poking around the front end, re-inspecting everything I could see.....the headlight adjusting screw (which I never before realized existed) wasn't loose.....no unauthorized parts bouncing around inside of the headlamp.........but I noticed that the front brake line and the accompanying ABS sensor wire are free to rattle against the after part of the front fender. Tapping these two against the hard plastic part actually produced a sound much like that which has been driving me nuts. I taped the two cables to the fender and drove a few miles. At first....no rattle (at least I'm pretty sure). The rattle did reappear, but after dismounting I realized that the tape had come undone. timagination
    
    
• Noise 45: I have a sporadic grating noise coming from what seems like the tranny on the right side. It comes and goes lasting for a few minutes then kicking off as fast as it kicked on. The sound follows the engine RPMs and does not change if pulling in the clutch. The bike is running very strong and whatever the noise is, it does not affect performance yet. Unfortunately, it is getting louder. ...the BMW dealer here in Istanbul changed the generator bearings and put in a new starter for no effect. The problem does seem to occur when running at lower speeds but that could be at higher speeds I can't hear it over the rumble from my ultra cool Adventure pipe. The noise follows the RPMs. As I rev the motor with the clutch engaged or disengaged, the grating noise increases with the spin. It happens moving or standing still--when the motor is cold, warm and more at lower speeds. But it will also disappear for awhile only to return. Sometimes it gets triple loud for ten seconds then subsides. When it happens it clicks on like a compressor when flipping on the AC in a car and stops the same way. strikingviking
  
  
  • Feedback 1: Of course you've eliminated the chain, sprockets and chain roller as possible suspects, right? Mine did that. Also, although it's on the left side, the cam chain tensioner and guides can allow the cam chain to make the same kind of noise when they wear out. SScratch #1082
    
    
  • Feedback 2: Remove the front sprocket cover and see if the chain has been rubbing on the inside of it. I once heard a ticking/grating sound, and it turned out the drive chain was too loose. Scott #1244
    
    
  • Feedback 3: I'm betting the countershaft sprocket nut is loose - and the front sprocket sliding in/out on the shaft. YMMV. Marty #436
    
    
  • Answer: None provided
    
    
• Noise 46: I plan to replace my timing chain and guides in a few weeks when I do a valve clearance check. At the same time I was hoping to do something about my decompression mechanism. It makes the engine sound very average from idle to about 2000rpm. About a month or so ago I replaced the cam chain tensioner and it certainly reduced the noise. The noise I have now is not nearly as loud as prior to the change. When I replaced it I checked the travel of the tensioner and it was right on the 9mm limit. This is why I am going to replace the cam chain. I know the 9mm limit may be reached because of worn guides but since the bike was probably ridden for a while with the tensioner problem by me and possibly the previous owner, I figure the chain could be worn so I don't want to take any chances. Anyway the engine is still distinctly noisy up to 2000rpm. Even thought the 9mm tensioner limit of effectiveness is almost used up, I figure it should still be doing its job. Around 2000rpm the noise fades until it disappears and you just have normal piston noise. Perhaps it is just a worn timing chain, but the decompression mechanism makes sense to me. dnd
  
  
  • Feedback 1: My suggestion (and this is coverered in the FAQs) is take a good long hard look at the Hydraulically Operated Chain tensioner and replace that. Chances are it is your noise culprit, not the Decompression lever. Either that or the idle is too low, but on the FI you cannot "really" change it yourself (although someone reckon's he tried) unless a s/w upgrade lowered it somewhat. On mine and (others classic, when I had one) that noise would disappear at the correct idle. Seems odd I must say, about the noise. Have you compared it to another's GS? I wonder if you have gunk in your Oil feed which is stuffing up the Hydraulic Tensioner...? Kristian #562
    
    
  • Feedback 2: IMHO, unless your bike has 60,000 plus miles AND is running crappy, it think you're wasting time and money replacing your timing chain. Your decompression release is SUPPOSED to make noise below 1000 RPM. dlearl #476
    
    
  • Feedback 3: I'd pull the valve cover, rotate the engine until the DR has a little play and wiggle it. If it's EXTREMELY loose, I'd worry about it, if it isn't, I wouldn't. With your mileage, I seriously doubt there's anything seriously wrong with your engine unless it's been horribly abused by a previous owner. dlearl #476
    
    
  • Answer: None provided
    
    
• Noise 47: When turning off my 2002 GS, I hear a moderately-pitched (MP) clunk sound. It sounds like its coming from the valve/cylinder area. Its not as high as a ping or as low as the clunk you get when you shift from Neutral into 1st. Whatever it is, it's probably not healthy and the bike would be better off without it. I can sometimes get rid of the MP clunk sound by turning the bike off in Neutral or with the clutch pulled in, but there's not a consistent correlation. I checked the Strange Noise FAQ and something in me says that it has to do with the Compression Releaser. (Either that or its something I'm doing...) meribona
  
  
  • Feedback 1: Hmm might be what mine did. I assumed it was something to do with the starter. If so its nothing to worry about. echo
    
    
  • Feedback 2: Sometimes I hear the decompression device clunk just as the engine stops rotating. If that's it, no worries. mark1305 #1495
    
    
  • Answer: I think you're describing what I'm hearing. The moderately-pitched clunk sound I hear is just as the engine stops rotating (the clunk is the last sound the bike makes before the engine stops). That's the only time the MP clunk happens. meribona
    
    
• Noise 48: Whirring of gears...or at least that's what it sounds like. It's not a knocking noise, more of a hum. My engine developed this noise, it's persistent but inconsistent, happens at idle and at speed. I thought maybe it was the cam chain tensioner gone bad, allowing the chain to rub against the case, but I replaced that with no seeming affect. Earplugs have helped, but haven't totally eliminated it. Got any idears? SScratch #1082
  
  
  • Feedback 1: Are you sure it's based on engine speed and not wheel rotation? My new chain whizzed(not peed) for awhile after I changed sprockets and chain. It would most likely be the actual timing chain-but it's a little soon for that to die. justin843
    
    
  • Feedback 2: Oil pump/water pump drive gears going south? (Doubt you could hear that WITHOUT the earplugs, as they're plastic). Marty #436
    
    
• Noise 49: On rough dirt every now and again at different rpms, different speeds I would end up with a strange rattle. Not a regular sound, and only happened going down hill on some dirt roads... Turns out every now and again I had a rock that was somehow bouncing up under the engine in bouncing around on the engine guard / bash plate. Winter
  
  
  • Solution: Not sure, may be add the additional aftermarket guard and hope it fixes the problem. Winter
    
    
• Noise 50: This one has been a puzzle for the last 1000+kms. Between 4500 and 5000 rpm usually in 2nd and 3rd gear I had a rattle. Was not metallic, sounded like the fairing (on my old ZZR 250 I would have to replace one of the grommits regularly because the fairing would begin to rattle). After much investigation, applying pressure to certain parts of the faux tank, I kinda gave up. Could not find anything that was loose, and it did not sound like the engine. This morning I found it - on the diagnostic connector was a small sticker that would flap (like a ruler when you "twang" it on a bench). That flapping did not normally cause any noise, but between 4500 and 5000rpm it was probably synchronised with the engine speed or something - result noise. Winter
  
  
  • Solution: Turn sticker / cable around so sticker is pinned down, or cut the sticker off. Winter
    
    
• Noise 51: When I turn OFF the key, there are three tick, tick, ticks then a one second pause then it starts over again. It is very faint but I can hear it with my helmut off. It does this for a minute or so then stops. I took the cluster back off and reinstalled, still there. Bike seems fine, nothing weird. Anyone have a clue to what it is? Or if I need to stay 50 feet back for that first minute after parking? heymarz
  
  
  • Solution 1: Is the tach or speedo needle twitching with the tick? Totally normal. Don't fret. you are probably overly sensitve to instrument cluster anomolies right now. I notice mine doing it from time to time right after shutdown. jetdocs #1546
    
    
  • Solution 2: This is normal, it's the gage needles resetting to zero. If you were to rotate a needle it will stay in the incorrect position until you turn off the key. At that point, it will tick back to a park position and reset itself to zero. roamer
    
    
• Noise 52: Every time I turn the bike on my tach rattles / makes a buzzing sound like it does when you reconnect the battery after servicing the bike (it only lasts for a few seconds). However I can not get it to stop buzzing. How do I stop it? Winter #1935
  • Solution: Have you recently removed fuses from the bike? In what order did you put the fuses back in? The solution is to remove the 10A fuse ONLY, wait 15mins or so, then re-insert the fuse. I also did the twist the throttle three times, but have no idea if this is part of the solution. Winter #1935
• Noise 53: My new to me F650GS with 65,000km has a grinding noise from the gearbox region, although that's hard to tell for sure when you are riding, that you can only hear when starting off in 1st gear with a bit of a load aboard and starting up a slope. Any ideas on where to start, or is this fairly normal? My '94 F650 has been a trouble free up to it's current 140,000km and I was hoping this new one would be as reliable. DancesWithPoultry (Nigel in NZ)
  • The clutch on my second F650GS made exactly the same noise in exactly the same circumstances. I realised it was bathed in oil (it sounded dry ... like a coffe-grinder) so I ignored it. I'm never sure if it ever went away, 'cos I ignored it Trevor #999
  • Thanks Trevor and all who replied. That makes sense to me. It did used to be a hire bike, so it was likely to have been hammered in the clutch region. DancesWithPoultry
• Noise 54: Is this a bad thing when I can here their slight "click a click" when the engine is cold? [Ed: On a CS] TexasArmadillo CG#1930 BBG#93
  • What RPM? Are you sure it's not just the compression release thingy going on and off, if you're idling around 1k rpm or so? dinskeep
  • It's most noticable at idle (1400 rpm) but I can still hear it up to 3000+rpm while it's warming up. TexasArmadillo
  • Have you checked the valve clearances lately? Flash 412 (CO)
  • Oh, boy, here comes the beating... They should have at the BMW dealer (in Plano, TX) when I had the 6000mi. It's at 8750mi now. And I didn't really notice much of a clicking before I took it in then. It was noticable only after I got it back. I immediately asked them what I was hearing and the mechanic said that was normal. ...but I wonder. TexasArmadillo
  • You won't know how far your valves are out of adjustment until YOU check. Either that or else something silly is going on, like your cam chain tensioner in backwards or summat. Flash 412 (CO)
  • I have 24k km on my 2004 GS. I have found on cold mornings (for the first 1000km after an oil change) I sometimes get the compression release mechanism clicking (listen for the sound when you kill the engine, sometimes you will hear it). It sometimes lasts 5-10 seconds as the engine comes up to speed and the oil starts warming up. Each time I have checked the valve clearances I have also checked the compression release is okay, and there appears to be no other strange behaviour. Winter #1935
  • Cold oil. 5 to 10 seconds? That would seem to fit my symptoms. Lately, as the weather has gotten warmer, I don't here it so much. TexasArmadillo
• Noise 55: BMW Service Bulletin 23-001-06 (061) from October 2006, identifies a possible gearbox/transmission rattle. With the engine running, in neutral, place the bike on the sidestand. If there is a rattle on the sidestand, but not on the center stand, then it is likely you have this problem. The other check is to engage (pull in) the clutch while the bike is on the sidestand. If the noise goes away, then this service bulletin applies to you. Please check the Service Bulletins for relevant VINs, and contact your local dealer to have the work performed.
• Noise 56: I have a 2001 F650Gs with 34,000 miles...After a bizarre buzzing sound from what I can only assume was in the engine somewhere, the bike just stopped propelling foward. The engine is fine and turns right over and hums just fine, but kicking it into gear does absolutely nothing. Up and down the gears I go and not one gear engages except neutral (the neutral light even comes on). I adjusted the clutch, and just can't for the life of me figure out what the problem is. The clutch is obviously no engaging, but why? A sensor maybe? OreSka #1874
  • Answer: Did your chain fall off? Are your sprockets so worn that the chain cannot grab them? If your chain and sprockets are in good shape, then your clutch is probably worn out. THAT is well covered in the FAQ and the DVDs.

These are some of the questions you might get asked, or some of the things to think about to identify and fix the noise:

Other things to try / consider:

• For plastic type rattles, find a street were you can safely press parts of the fairing with your hand to try and find what is rattling
• Swap bikes with another F650 owner - see if they can identify the noise
• Have you checked your helmet (ie Borrow someone elses helmet for a quick test ride - DON'T ride without one!)?
• Check everything is tightened to spec, including engine mounting bolts, bash plate, fairing etc... And check a second time.
• If you have just done some work on the bike, retrace your steps.
• For noises up the front of the bike around the dash area, Noise 44 is a really good place to start!
• Noises from 40 onwards tend to get a little long and can help in trouble shooting.
• After you have done some work on the bike, you are more likely to pay attention to strange noises... some noises are normal, some are not!

If you can not find your noise or a similar noise in the list, and the other suggestions do not help identify the noise... ask in the Forums. When you do, provide the following information:

1. What model / year bike do you have? (Most people forget to tell us this) Is it a Classic, GS, Dakar, CS and what year was it made in? Also tell us if it has ABS - this could help the diagnosis.
2. What does it sound like? Does it sound metalic, or like plastic? Is it a deep knock like a clonk clock or more of a tap tap? Is it a heavy clonk clonk or a lighter plink plink?
3. Where does it sound like it is coming from? Is it coming from the engine? Left or right side? Front forks? Rear of the bike? If you can safely get off the bike to hear the sound, where does it come from? Have you tried the mechanics stethoscope? Where abouts in the engine is it coming from?
4. When did it start? So when did the noise start? Has it been gradual or did it start suddenly? Did it start after a long trip? Have you done any maintenance lately? Have you heard it before?
5. Under what conditions does it occur? Tell us more about when you hear the noise:
   1. Temperature? Does it happen only when the bike is cold, or when it is hot? Does the noise change with the ambient / air temperature?
   2. Engine Speed or Bike Speed? Does it only happen between certain engine speeds (eg between 3500rpm and 4500rpm), or does it occur only at certain road speeds (eg below 30mph / 50kph).
   3. In all gears, Neutral, clutch engaged? Does it only occur when in neutral? etc (Note: Just because you can not hear it in 5th gear does not mean it is there when you are in 5th gear)
   4. Frequency? Does it happen when you turn the key on / off? Does it happen just after you start the bike? Does it happen once a minute, once a second?
   5. Load? Does it occur under heavy load, or is it just under a normal load?
   6. Road Conditions? On road or off road? Uphill, downhill?
6. Anything else? Is there anything else you think might help identify the noise?

But please, please, please - DON'T FORGET to tell us how you fixed the problem. Because then you help others.

Send some more Noises...

You know the hardest thing about working on the Noises FAQ?
You spend the next 1000kms listening for every little tick, clonk and thunk!