Spark Plug FAQ
Compiled & edited by Kristian #562
Please read the Disclaimer before
attempting any work in this FAQ.
Last Updated: 13 June 2007, by Winter #1935
- About Spark Plugs
- Misc Spark Plug Questions
- Will an extended tip plug cause ill/harm to my GS?
- What gap should I use on an extended tip plug?
- What gap should I use on a Iridium plug?
- My new plugs do not come with a screw-on terminal/cap
- NGK Plugs in Canada
- Any hints on accessing the spark plugs?
- Any hints on removing the plugs on a GS without removing the airbox?
- My spark plug appears to have corroded
- Leading causes of dry spark plug fouling, as indicated by dry, black, sooty residue. (NOTE: Not "wet" fouling)
- DPR9EIX-9 instead of the DPR8EIX-9?
- Intercom noise after spark plug change?
- I have a Dual Spark - How would I know if one was not working?
- What spark plug cap do I use on my FI model bike?
Other related FAQs:
According to BMW service sheets, the spark plug(s) on the F650 should
be changed every 10,000kms (6,000miles). Changing your spark plug(s) can
be an easy task - it just depends on your model of bike and how easy it is
to access to spark plug(s). Spark plugs can also give you an insight into
the internal operation of your engine - depending on their condition. I
like to keep old plugs around, and write on the packet when they were
removed. That way I can check later to see if there have been any
|Advice: Change Plugs on a Cold Engine|
|Unless it is really urgent, only change the spark plug when the
engine is cold. The engine case is made of aluminium, and the spark plug
(where it adjoins the engine) is made of steel. Different metals expand at
different rates when heated. Thus if you change your spark plug when the
engine is hot, the torque you apply when installing the new plug will not
be accurate. If you are performing a regular service, most people will
warm the engine and remove the oil. Then they leave the bike overnight,
and check valve clearances and change the spark plugs when the engine is
About Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Specifications
Which Spark Plug Should I Use?
The following table lists the available spark plugs for the F650. If
you are aware of a plug that is not listed, please let us know. The OEM
plugs are shaded in green.
||Classic / ST|
|Single Spark FI|
|Dual Spark FI|
||DR8EB usually only from BMW dealers
||No platinum plugs listed for CS
||Sometimes used for surging & stalling|
problems on single spark bikes.
|Extended Iridium Tip
||Denso Iridium site states IW20 for 1997 F650|
Denso websites are conflicting and confusing
||(Anyone have one of these?)
What is the Spark Plug Gap on the F650?
The Spark Plug Gap is 0.6-0.7mm. The Standard Plug is NGK D8EA or the
NGK DR8EB for dual spark FI models (2004 onwards). They
are preset from the factory. You can use feeler gauges to check. If your
plugs are not gapped properly out of the box, the vehicle should still run
fine. But, like having your valves set not-quite-right at the service
interval, you would likely encounter problems down the road sooner than
you would have if they'd been set right to start. Since the F650 calls for
replacing the plugs every 6000 miles, it really isn't all that much of an
Note: Please check the Misc Spark
Plug Questions section for comments on the gap for extended tip and
Iridium tip spark plugs.
Decoding NGK Spark Plugs
The following table helps to decode NGK spark plugs. Example 1 is the
D8EA (12mm thread diam, temp range=8, Long thread, Special) and Example
2 is the DPREIX-9 (12mm thread diam, Projected tip, Resistor Type, temp
range=8, Long thread, Iridium, 0.9mm electrode gap).
||B = 14mm|
D = 12mm
C = 10mm
||C = 16mm
|Projected Firing Tip
|Resistor Type (Interference Protection)
||2 = hot|
12 = cold
||E = Long|
H = Short
||S = Standard|
A = Special
B = Special
IX = Iridium
||9 = 0.9mm|
11 = 1.1mm
Platinum plugs are available. NGK D8EVX Platinum. (NGK Racing: R217-9
(retail approx. $19.99))
Do Platinum Plugs make any difference?
The almost overwhelming General Consensus on the F is a resounding
"No". Waste of money. They CAN however aid hard starts if you
have a fouling problem, but you should look into the cause of that problem
Opinions on Platinum Plugs:
- I just thought I would share this, although some of you may
already know. I recently bought bits from "Motorworks" Web site
to do a general service, when on the web site I noticed Platinum plugs,
they said that they improved power and fuel consumption so I thought I
would try them. I have just gone through the first tank of fuel since
fitting them and find the following:
Over all, impressed with the smoother more powerful engine, but doesn't
give better fuel consumption, well not for commuting perhaps on a long run
it might. Grayratg
- Smoother power delivery, with certainly low/mid power
- I used to have a slight roughness at about just under
4,000 rpm under acceleration but this has gone now.
- I use the bike for commuting daily and normally get from
50 - 52 mpg, this has not improved with the plugs in fact its about the
- I'm not meaning to sound like too much of a
nay-sayer, but wouldn't you think that you'd experience the same little joys
with new plugs of any flavor? What's the idea behind platinum plugs anyway? That
the coating won't foul as much in the heat of the engine? Or that the coating
causes better conductivity? I'm thinking it's marketing hype, but I could be
wrong. Seacuke #1214
- I am just wondering if your regular plug was old,
before you changed to platinum? Could that have caused the differences? It is
perhaps a little to soon to draw conclusions on fuel consumption after only one
tank...? Spakur #1117
- Platinum plugs do not look like regular plugs. They
are NOT like regular plugs. The electrode is a very fine platinum wire. This
electrode does not degrade like a regular one. Because it is more or less a
point, the spark is a "better" spark due to electric field effects from a point
source rather than a "flat surface" like the standard plugs. I ran Bosch
platinum's in my R80G/S bikes for about eighty thousand miles or so. They were
always still running GREAT at replacement time. Once I had a rather unique
platinum plug failure. But Bosch sure did right by me. WARNING! If you change to
platinum plugs, make REAL SURE that they are NOT RESISTOR PLUGS unless you go
ahead and change your plug caps to NON-resistor type plug caps, too. Running
resistor plugs in resistor caps can worsen fuel economy significantly. Flash 412
- Platinum plugs have a very thin center electrode
that is supposed to provide a better spark that requires less voltage to fire.
The platinum may also be more resistant to erosion of the electrode. They have
been developed to satisfy the auto manufacturers requirements for longer
intervals between tune ups. As you know, that is not a big concern for the BMW
motorcycle factory. Now we have Titanium plugs and Iridium plugs. I have no idea
what these plugs are supposed to do, besides cost a lot of money and presumably
make more profit for everyone involved in their manufacturing and sales. Richard
Split Fire Spark Plugs
- It's the same marketing gimmick that got
people to buy more razor blades by putting two - then three!- in a single
razor head. Technical reports (search online) show the V splits really don't
have any significant difference for power. Remember: the spark only jumps from
one spot - one electrode - at any time. Plus with a split plug, the spark has
more opportunity to arc instead of connecting in a straight path to the other
- I'm not sure if the "platinum" coating helps
either because it's really just a very small, very thin coating. You'd have to
have a lot more to make it seriously effective.
- Simply cleaning the plug and setting the gap
regularly will probably work as well. And check the wires, too.
- And you may want to check the lawsuit against
www.ftc.gov/os/1997/9702/splitfir.htm and here
- And for a chart of misfires and popular plugs
- Here's an alternative to power boost options... but you'll need to
experiment with your jets!
www.dragbike.com/news/features/product_directhits.htm. Ichadwick -
Apparently, BMW recommends Iridium for the GS. I picked up my bike from
the 20 000 km service today (GS Dakar). The tech said he'd put in a Denso
Iridium sparkplug. He said BMW has instructed the dealers to change to
this plug when bikes are in for service, and that the OEM plugs are really
not that well suited for the engine. And, yes, the bike runs appreciably
better with the new plugs. More responsive, and the slight surging or
stumbling I've experienced around 3.3k revs is now all but gone. They're
perhaps the most expensive sparkplugs out there, but IMHO they seem to be
worth it. Oyvind #1052, Norway
On one of my magneto ignition, high compression and kick-start only
single cylinder bikes I had to use Champion Gold Palladium plugs. They
lasted forever and the bike always started at the second kick. With
"normal" plugs the beast was sometimes almost un-startable. I
rode it ( on track and road) for +300 000 km so I knew how to start it.
Those plugs had a center electrode that was less than half the diameter of
"normal" ones. More important, the bike ran better as far as I
could appreciate. I can not explain how and why but plug choice seems to
be more than just heat range. Design and materials matters also. Haakon
BMW F650 97 650 IX24 0.032
BMW F650 ST 97 650 IX24 0.032
About $20, but expect that price to be significantly lower in almost any other
country. I think the plug code is IX24M.
Should I install Iridium Spark Plug(s) in my bike?
- If your bike is working fine with the current spark plugs, why waste money.
- Extended tip plugs are suggested more for surging and stalling problems on single spark FI models. Some people perceive an improvement in dual spark bikes using extended tip plugs, however no one really has "factual data" on this mod.
- Iridium tip plugs (not extended tip - e.g. DR8EIX) have also been percieved by some to improve their bikes performance. Again, what this leads to in "factual" performance I have no idea.
Autolite Spark Plugs
Hal stated that he uses Autolite spark plugs because they have a longer
reach, thereby giving him better performance. I need to verify if this is
a safe thing to do? The difference in length is only .041". The gap
is also in question:
- The NGK D8EA is supposed to be .024 to .028 inches.
- Autolite states a gap of .032 inches.
What are Resistor Plugs? Well by now you might have realised that the
major part of the resistance in the F Plug/Coil system is provided by the
Plug Cap. Some bikes use Resistor Plugs, so another solution could be to
just have a 0kohm Cap and Run Resistor Plugs in your bike, but not
- MPG on my R80G/S went up about 10% when I realized I was running
resistor plugs AND resistor caps and changed to zero Ohm caps.
- NGK do make a resistor plug, the NGK DR8EA. The OEM cap was 1kohm.
Substituting a 5kohm cap is probably OK. A 0kohm cap without using a
resistor plug like the DR8EA is NOT OK. If you use anything (but)
more than 5k, you'll probably get less spark than you would with 5k due to
impedance mismatch. But using 10k would probably be just fine in
practice. But for good fuel economy DON'T use both a resistor cap
AND a resistor plug. In other words, I don't think it really matters all
that much one way or the other as far as making the bike run. Economy
might suffer slightly. But would you really notice?
- Resistor Plugs.
I've been getting a lot of interference on my helmet comm.
lately and one manufacturers website said the cure is to use "R" type plugs. I
picked up the "R" version of the D8EA for my classic and have been reluctant
to install it as the length of the plug seems to be different from the stock
D8EA. Anyone used the NGK DR8EA.
Better yet, anyone used on and found it actually cut down
on the RF interference? Sean #1015 Ottawa Canada
- I may be way off
base, but I thought the resistor in the stock plug caps performed the same
function as an "R" type plug. True? If so, adding an "R" plug would simply be
adding more resistance to the spark circuit. It probably wouldn't make much
difference in how the bike runs if the resistance isn't too high (for a while
I used a 5kohm NGK resistor in one of my plug caps when the stock resistor
went bad -- and my '99 ran just fine). Bob#550 (Olympia WA)
- What Bob said.
On my old Airhead, the mechanics kept replacing my R-plugs with Bosch plugs
"to make it run right". Do my own work now, no more arguments...:-) But they
were probably right. Consider putting a filter in the 12V power line
(s) to the intercom system (assuming it's not strictly dry
cell powered). See Radio Shack for options. Marty
General Spark Plug Info
- I just
noticed on the plugs I pulled today that the bottom 4 or 5 threads were black,
like they were actually INSIDE the combustion chamber that far (yes they were
the right plugs). Anybody had the head off with the plugs in that can confirm
this? The reason I bring this up is that any anti-seize (yes, I was taught to
use a TINY dab and reduce the torque by about half...I use the touchy feely
method after all these years) that is on the threads of the plug COULD get
burned and the metallic debris fall into the cylinder Marty #436-Chicago-97
- You can
use a tiny dab of never-seize on the threads (I seldom do). If you have one, you
might consider using a torque wrench until you develop the right "feel" for
torquing various items like plugs. (Keep in mind that the torque required for a
used plug is less, due to gasket crush.) Many will argue, but for me the biggest
thing to keep in mind is the different expansion rates of the steel plug vs. the
aluminum head. Whenever possible, I try to remove and install plugs only when
the engine is dead cold. Overtightening a used cold plug into hot aluminum may
eventually result in problems. An experienced mechanic can get away with it for
years, but I wouldn't recommend it as a general practice. Todd #389
- Some folks put a bit of anti-seize on the threads of the new plug
before installing it. Harl #380
- In my experience, most motorcycle plugs are torqued to 25 NM.
First Plug Change (spark plugs for idiots)
by Ted in TO, 01 GS
OK, so this may be just obvious stuff, but I have never dealt with
plugs before, and have less mechanical experience than I would like. I
decided to do a bunch of routine work on the bike last night (battery,
coolant, oil, spark plug, accessory plug).
- While it
is good to combine work on the bike, combining an oil change and a spark plug
change is not a good idea. You want a warm bike to change the oil, and a cold
bike to change the plug.
- I did the
whole thing with no special tools other than those in the stock kit, but I had a
h*ll of a time getting the plug socket in and turning (not enough room to work
in). I recommend buying a good socket.
- Since I
was checking the battery, I had all the plastic ripped off, and this made it
easier to get to the plug (well, a bit easier). I ripped off the right hand side
plastic, plus the piece that goes over the top. I then removed the snorkel and
air box. This gave me access to the top of the plug.
- The plug
itself is on top of the engine, on the right hand side, sort of sticking up and
right. Look for the single thick wire that has a 90 degree bend and goes down
into the engine. you will see a rubber plug with stainless around it going down
into the engine. This is the plug cap. You will not be able to see the plug
until you remove this.
- If you
bought the plug already (you should have) it may have a little threaded bit on
the very top. Don't worry about the threads. The spark plug cap pushes on, it
does not thread on.
- I found
the cap to be very sticky. I could sort of wiggle/twist it back and forth, but I
could not pull it off, and was reluctant to really pull too hard on it in case I
broke something. Keep wiggling, keep pulling and eventually it will come off.
important detail. Clean the recess (the hole where the spark plug is situated).
It often (always) accumulates a lot of sand, grit and dust there, so it is a
good advice to use compressed air to blow all the dirt out, before you
unscrew the plug. You do not have to do it just prior to the plug change. The
day before or something will be sufficient, if you keep to tarmac until the
change. If you unscrew the plug with a lot of dirt in the recess, some of it
will fall into the engine, NO GOOD. Some will also get stuck on the threads, NO
- Once the
cap comes off and you can see the top of the plug, it is pretty obvious. The big
socket in the tool roll just fits neatly in there and you can unscrew the old
plug. One note: the socket has two holes drilled in it so you can slot a
screwdriver (or the pin provided) in there and use it to turn the socket.
Unfortunately there is not enough room to turn the socket 90 degrees and use the
next hole to turn another 90 degrees. So if your plug is really sticky, you have
to turn as far as you can, then remove the socket from the plug and rotate it
back one face (60 degrees) then use the screwdriver again. You can get 60
degrees, but not 90 degrees.
- Check the
gap of the *new* plug before installing it, so it's within limits. I've bought
some new plugs where the gap was far too wide, so it's best to check. Trevor#999
- Pull out
the plug and pop in the new one. There is a bunch of stuff about looking at the
plugs and determining stuff in the faq. I just threw out the old one. Slot the
new plug in carefully. If you cross thread it, it will cost more than you can
believe to get the hole re-tapped (or so I hear).
- Shove the plug cap back on there and put all the other bits
together and you are good.
tighten the plug until it is finger tight, then give it another quarter turn or
so. I found several figures for tightness, but the one thing everybody agreed on
was that you can do more damage having it too tight rather than too loose. The
spec for GS models is 20 Nm.
- Test the engine. If it doesn't work, bug someone else, mine worked
Plug Chop and How do I do it?
Plug Chops are what you do to tell which rpm range is rich or lean if
you don't have an Oxygen or Gas sensor.
- Basically you run the bike under load, (some
do it at a certain rev range e.g. idle, 2000-3500, 3500-4500 etc) however...
- It is MUCH BETTER to make marks on your Kill
Switch casing at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, Full (WFO) and put a pin in your throttle
rubber so you can calibrate the throttle position, NOT the rev range)
- Then hit the kill switch, wait for the bike to
cool, take out your plugs and "read" them for soot (Rich), Colour, Aluminium
- Waiting for them to cool is recommended by
most people due to Thermal Temp Diff. around plug threads. So it can be a Long
term thing and a Royal PITA. An Idle Plug Chop is easy, because you do it
every day, when you turn off your engine.
- START with NEW Plugs or you'll fool yourself.
- Hitting the "Kill Switch" is called "chopping"
the plugs as you get the colour they are at that range, rather than at idle,
which is where you normally turn off your engine (right?).
- Take out your plugs and check the Colour.
Generally a nice "Tan" colour in the rpm range you are testing,
is what you are looking for. Lamb Chops are tastier though.
- See this very good site
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/spkplghnbook.htm for a guide to Reading
Plugs and Plugs in general.
- See the
Exhaust Rejetting Spreadsheet for additional performance-related Spark
For Plug Reads (Colours, Descriptions)
- Reading Plugs. I have an old see through plug thing that lets you
see the combustion colour. Useful on Urals, but I can't be bothered on the
F (put petrol in & ride & don't worry). The plug thing is called a
colour tune. David Angel at F2 motorcycles in the UK is the source.
Andy Leeds UK #982
Misc Spark Plug Questions
Will an extended tip plug cause ill/harm to my GS?
I posted the 2-part spark plug question, and I have since gone to the
store and purchased a Standard Projected Tip--NGK DP8EA-9. You guys are
sure my bike is not going to suffer any ill harm in using this plug? I
know (or read) in the FAQs that it works well. Can you give me a few
additional words of faith? billmallin #1629
- If Jesus rode an F650GS, he would run one of those plugs.
Projected tip plugs are Kosher.
Projected tip plugs do NOT need to be circumcised.
Projected tip plugs are OK to install on Fridays.
If you DON'T install a projected tip plug, you WILL NOT get into
(Out of curiousity... just how many people are required to personally tell
you it is ok before you'll believe it?) Flash 412 (CO)
What gap should I use on an extended tip plug?
Also, the gap. I read in the FAQs that they come pre-gapped, but (since
I am an engineer) can you tell me what the gap should be for this
extended-tip plug? billmallin #1629
- I put one in about 12,000 miles ago. It's been fine and reduces or
eliminates the roughness through 3,500->4,000rpm. I recommend an iridium
projected plug though, it works better than the standard projected plug.
Set the gap to about what the manual says for the bike (IIRC, 0.6-0.7mm),
they come pre-gapped to around 0.9. Mr. Precision
- I didn't even check the gap out of the box. FWIW, I heard the
largest gap you can run without misfire or flashover is the best for
combustion. I do not know if it's true. The racers seem to want to do it
that way. Jetdoc, #1546
- I just use the gap out of the box like the rest of you, but the
regular extended tip, not the iridium one.
What gap should I use on a Iridium plug?
Hello everybody! I was reading thru the FAQ's and have decided that I
will replace my spark plug (I am close to 6K miles) with an iridium plug.
Based on the specs. I see that the factory gap is .6 and that the Denso
iridium gap is set at .32 > Is this the wrong plug?? Which one should I
- I took my iridium plug from the box, gave it a good look... and
then proceeded to install it into my motorcycle without messing with the
gap or anything. Runs absolutely beautifully. I'd even go so far to call
it PERFECT! billmallin #1629
My new plugs do not come with a screw-on terminal/cap
I just received a couple of the iridium plugs that I ordered through
the net (couldn't find them locally). Like the other projected tip plug
from NGK, they also do not come with a screw-on terminal/cap. I'm assuming
that I can take the cap off of the plug currently installed on my bike and
put it on the iridium plug. Is my assumption correct? Otherwise, I have to
go out and locate some caps. JC12
- I did not use the cap and all is well, in fact the NGK dpr.......
did not have caps on it. damalden #1598
- Just put the NGK DPR8EIX9 iridium plugs in both my Twin Spark
Dakar and my wife's '99 classic. In my case the older classic does *not*
use caps but just the standard threaded post of the plugs. Iridium's went
straight in. On my new '04 Twin-Spark the caps were needed and I had to go
out and scrounge two caps to finish the job. This seems to be the opposite
of what others here have found on their bikes so maybe it is a hit & miss
thing when it comes to which plug leads are on these bikes. Bario
NGK Plugs in Canada
BTW, if anyone is having problems finding these plugs up here in Canada
I found a solution. I went to a major parts supplier (Lordco Auto Parts)
with the NGK iridium part numbers and they could not find the listing in
the NGK catalogue. Even the Manager was looking at the latest book but
they did not show up as available in Canada. He said he would have to
order them direct and couldn't do that at less than 100 units!! Well we
finally found 'em by looking at applications rather than the NGK part
numbers and cross references. If you pick up the newest NGK catalogue and
look under Cagiva Elefant it lists the plug there. Using the Lordco Part
#'s I ordered 4 Iridium NGK's for a Cagive Elefant and got 4 nice new
DPR8EIX9 iridium plugs. I know, it should be easier. Who knows why the
listing is so stupid and why is there no reference elsewhere? No matter,
plugs are in and it's time to go for a road test to see if there is any
difference at all for a new Twin-Spark. Bario
Any hints on accessing the spark plugs?
- Was swapping out the plug for the first time and noticed how
awkward tring to stick that rod into the holes of the provided plug
wrench.. So I just stuck the handle of the big wrench into the top of the
plug wrench (put together as if you were going to remove your rear wheel)
and then used the rod between its jaws to turn it. Worked spiffy and one
can visualize that 1/4-1/2 turn to snug it up way easier. Didn't know if
this was commonly done or known so thought I'd share. motoplaner
- I just changed my plugs as well. I changed the plugs after sitting
for a day, so that the engine is really cold. I tightened them just barley
maybe less than your 1/4 turn. I read between FAQ and Cylmer book on that
"it is better to have a loose plug than I too tight of one" I got my plugs
at Kraco for like 1.99 each. Snake
Any hints on removing the plugs on a GS without removing the
Is there any known way to remove/install the spark plug without having
to remove the snorkel and air box (as is explained in the FAQ). I was
hoping a deep socket could do the job without even dissasembling the bike.
Any Ideas? pulixer
- Yes, you can get the plug out with removing the air box... you can
use a spark plug socket and a universal... but, it is so easy to remove
the air box... and besides, it is much easier to get the new plug started
and tightened properly with air box removed. Remove the air box.
My spark plug appears to have corroded
There have been reports of older (pre fuel injected models) bikes
having corroded spark plugs / caused by the plug caps. Please check the
Plug Caps and Coils FAQ for more
Leading causes of dry spark plug fouling, as indicated by dry,
black, sooty residue. (NOTE: Not "wet" fouling)
In my search for wisdom regarding fouled plugs I have plowed through
the faq, NGK's spark
plug guide, and too many Google searches to count. After reading acres
of verbiage, and sifting our the contradictory data, here is what I have
boiled it down to: (robert in TX #959)
- Too "cold" of a spark plug, resulting in the plug operating at a
- Too rich of a mixture.
- Excessive idling (including stop-and-go driving).
- Retarded timing. -- robert in TX #959
- Crap Beru spark plug caps allowing intermittant firing. (They
allow plugs to wet-foul when they're totally dead) Flash 412 (CO)
- If you have a sick oil burning donk, then the plug will oil foul.
The solution is a re-ring and cyl hone and/or valve guide job for a
permanent fix. Otherwise go 2 grades hotter than recommended for spark
plug, this will keep oil deposits burnt off the plug tip. Keep pouring oil
in to the engine, so it does not run low. IF you run hard miles like this,
you COULD bash a hole in the piston, but it will probably run out of oil
DPR9EIX-9 instead of the DPR8EIX-9?
So, I'm reading that the Denso IX24 is the better plug for the GS for
many reasons. Problem is...that particular plug is difficult to come by
locally. However, many shops offer the NGK DPR9EIX-9 instead of the
DPR8EIX-9, the 8 being the exact equivalent and the 9 being slightly
different with regard to temperature? The guy on the phone said it was a
little cooler but should work. I also read of some people using the 9, but
no followup...which is probably a good thing. rob feature
- It'll ultimately depend on what the true compression ratio you are
getting on your bike is, the octane level of the fuel you are using, how
fast (and therefore how hot your engine is getting) and the spark advance
that your computer is producing... But the pragmatic way to evaluate it is
to try it and then look at the plug afterwards (soot on the plug means
it's too cold, tarnished ceramic insulation casing indicates its too hot).
The NGK website has a pretty extensive explanation of the science behind
- I think I'm gonna try the DR8EIX. I can get it locally and it's an
exact match to the recommended IX24. rob feature
- Actually, I think what makes the bike run better is the "P" which
stands for projected tip. It puts the spark a little deeper in the
cyclinder. I've had both the iridium and regular projected tip plugs, and
they both worked better than the iridium dr8xxxx non projected tip.
Intercom noise after spark plug change?
Intercom noise is sometimes caused by RF noise. The RF noise can be
generated by spark plugs / plug caps with no resistors. Take a look at the
table below... If you replace the plug caps on the earlier models with a
non-resistor type plug cap, you may experience noise. If you replace the
spark plugs on later models with a non-resistor spark plug, you may
experience noise... In other words: either your spark plugs or plug caps
should be a resistor type.
|1994 - 2003
||RF Noise possible
Where can I find a supplier for the NGK DR8EB?
- The DR8EB was a specially made plug for BMW from what I can find
out - and in theory is only available through your BMW dealer. Winter
- I just ran into this for the first time recently as well, and my
discovery was the same: that plug is made special for BMW by NGK, and is
only available from BMW dealers. It is not in the NGK parts catalog.
- My BMW dealers (stealers) don't use them don't stock them. they
use the D8EA. Anyway I bought the DR8EA today, and the noise has gone from
my helmut in the autocom unit. (on a decent ride to work tonight will
really tell). liddell
I have a Dual Spark - How would I know if one was not working?
- Note: It is NOT a good idea to just disconnect one plug cap. This could lead to damage to the coils.
- The suggestion in the Clymer (for Funduros) is to remove one plug and ground it against the engine (somewhere away from the open plug hole) and then attempt to start the bike. If the plug works, you'll see the spark. Then just swap the plugs and repeat. I've used this method in the past and it is fairly easy to tell whether or not the plugs are working properly. [Ed note: This should work on both the Carb and FI dual spark models] banner #1750
What spark plug cap do I use on my FI model bike?
- NGK XD 05FP works on an '01 F650GS according to cdnabn49