Changing your F650 Chain and Sprockets

compiled & edited by Kristian #562
Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.
Last Updated: 14 June 2007, by Winter #1935

For other FAQs related to this topic:


Maintaining your final drive (your chain and sprockets) is important four your safety and a well operating machine. However sooner or later your final drive will become worn in several ways. The sprockets will wear which makes it harder for the chain to "grip", and the chain will over time degrade making it loose. This FAQ tells you how to change your chain and sprockets. If you are after other chain / sprocket related FAQs, you should check the General Chain FAQ and the Sprockets - Other Sizes FAQ.

Warning: Make Sure You Get it Right
You do not want your chain or sprockets to come loose while riding your bike. This could result in all sorts of nastie things happening such as your rear wheel locking up. This could result in serious injury to yourself and potentially others. When testing your newly installed chain and sprockets, wear all the gear - in fact wear all the gear all the time. And not only could the chain coming loose cause you serious injury, but could result in damage to the engine. This could become costly when repairing the bike.

Changing your Chain and Sprockets

by David #476, Andy #618 & Kristian #562
Additional Pre '97 Comments by Spakur

Tools & Parts Required

Time Required


While the procedure is outlined below, before you remove the Rear Wheel, refer the Rear Wheel Removal FAQ for more detailed information on Rear Wheel Removal.

  1. Place the bike in neutral and put it on the center stand. Take the counter/shaft sprocket cover off (The one Stamped "BMW"). There are 3 Allen Bolts. Set it aside.
  2. '97 Classics and above, GS/Dakar. Bend the lock washer down using a cold chisel or an old screwdriver.
  3. Remove the CS Sprocket Nut using a 30mm socket. This may require a long handled wrench to provide the necessary leverage for stubborn bolts. The nut unscrews counter-clockwise.
    Note: Ideas for removing the c/s sprocket

    The whole c/s Sprocket will try and turn if is not held by something, so to stop it turning you can either: See the General Chain FAQ, Removing the Countershaft Nut for further ideas.

    1. Put the bike IN 1st GEAR. This will hold it via the Engine Resistance. This is easiest and should work most of the time.

    2. Place one foot on the Rear Brake to hold the Rear Wheel in place. (You can also put it in (1st) gear AND stand on the Rear Brake!)
    3. Follow the Manual and unscrew the Plastic Centre Plug in the RHS Engine (Alternator) Housing, insert a Hex Allen-Key Socket in there and Hold the Flywheel while you undo the nut. [Addendum from Colorado Bob #1297: The size needed for the Hex Allen-Key Socket is 6 mm. My Hex Socket's diameter is larger than the alternator hole, so I used a 7 piece Allen Wrench set that is one piece (the pieces fold into the handle) into the hole and braced it against the brake pedal (that's AGAINST, not pushing down on it). The handle pushes against the brake pedal as you turn the nut loose. It makes the job a piece of cake. You don't have to contort your body with one foot one the brake, etc. When you go to tighten the nut, the engine (or the "flywheel" if you want to get picky) turns, the wrench will also turn until it contacts the brake pedal from the other direction. The pedal stops the hex wrench and flywheel from moving while you tighten the nut. No other gyrations involved. For pictures see the General Chain FAQ, Removing the Countershaft Nut]

    4. You could also use the (TDC) crank-stop bolt if it is in gear and not muck with the brake at all, if you happen to have a crank stop bolt handy, but it's a small bolt...

  4. If you have a Pre '97 Classic, you will have to remove the Circlip, NOT a Nut and a Washer. (Note this picture does NOT show the OEM Circlip. The OEM Circlip SHOULD BE the Middle of these three. Please read the Internal/External Snap Rings FAQ before proceeding. (That's a 15T NON-OEM Sprocket by the way)
  5. Loosen the rear axle bolt and screw the chain adjusters on the left and right side of the swingarm towards the front of the bike an equal number of turns. This will slacken the chain. After moving the wheel as far forward as possible I still could not get the chain over the C/S sprocket. I had to remove the chain from the rear sprocket to gain the slack I needed. This is easy to do.
  6. Lift the chain off the front sprocket and remove the sprocket. I did not need a gear puller (good thing too, I don't have one). The Sprocket Specialists one I bought has three threaded holes in it which would be useful for removal if ever required.
  7. If your sprocket is secured by a circlip (1995-1996): Examine the O-ring behind the sprocket; if it's not PERFECT, replace it. You can get one at a BMW dealer for $1.50 or any hardware store for .39c. Now clean the area around the seal and the splines of the shaft. An old toothbrush or a detail brush and WD-40 work well for this. If your sprocket is secured by a nut (1997 and onwards), you will not have an O-Ring.
    O-Ring Notes
    While reviewing the Aprilia Pegaso online parts, Flash found a warning that solved the mystery of the O-ring behind the countershaft sprocket (see this image). Theories include:
    • The O-ring was to help stop the wobble a bit when a Circlip was used and also to possibly help Jam the Circlip against the Sprocket so it didn't rotate.
    • In the old setup, the O ring probably provided pressure against the sprocket/circlip to prevent it from wobbling. In the new set up, the nut is torqued down and locked in place with a washer. If the O ring were left in there, and it provided some pressure to the sprocket, once the O ring started to degrade (or completely fall apart) the sprocket could start wobbling, perhaps even enough to release enough space that the nut could spin relative to the locking washer.
  8. Wipe all the WD-40 off and apply a liberal amount of BMW #10 grease to the shaft and inside splines of the new sprocket.
  9. '96 Classics and above, GS/Dakar:
    1. Put the new C/S sprocket on, then the lock washer (either new or old). Note: When placing the new c/s sprocket on, you should have a 1/16" gap remaining for the lock-washer.
      Note about the Sprocket Direction

      If you didn't check when you took it off the face marked EXT (or the face with slightly raised Boss goes outwards). Here is a picture of the INNER FACE. Without the rubber Dampeners (only on the OEM 16T Sprocket), the Inner face is flat and the outer has a small raised Boss/Collar as you can see in this shot of a 15T non-OEM. see "What happens if you put it on the wrong way", below.

      (Addendum from Colorado Bob #1297: If you are installing an AFAM brand sprocket and get confused as to which way the sprocket goes on, the side with the Part Numbers faces towards you.)

    2. Now take your rag, spray some WD-40 on it and clean the threads of the C/S sprocket very well. Wipe excess WD-40 from threads thoroughly.
    3. Now put two or three drops of MEDIUM Loctite (the blue kind in a red tube. Shake it first) on the C/S threads.
    4. Put the nut back on (after you have cleaned all the old Loctite out of the threads with a small screwdriver or a dental pick) Tighten it as tight can with a ratchet and check to make sure the lock-washer will line up with one of the flats of the nut when it's torqued.
    5. Put the old chain back over the sprocket.
    6. Now applying the brake as you did before, or with the bike in 1st Gear, Torque the nut to 80 then to 100 Nm's. Don't Bend the Lock Washer over just YET.
  10. '96 Classics and Older:
    1. Replace the O-ring, put the new C/S sprocket on, then the Circlip. It is recommended you RTV Silicone this Circlip in place. Make sure the surfaces are clean and free from Oil or Grease first. Replace the Old Chain over the front Sprocket. See the IMPORTANT note about the Sprocket Direction above.
  11. Remove the Rear Mud Scraper & Chain Guard. This can be done without removing the Chain Guard, but having it off makes it easier to remove the chain from the old sprocket.
  12. Lift the chain off the rear sprocket and set it over on the right side of the swingarm out of the way.
  13. Remove the rear tire by pulling the long bolt out towards the left side of the bike. Be careful not to lose the spacer on the left side of the wheel.
  14. Change the rear sprocket and use new Nyloc Nuts. Apply a good amount of #10 to the inner side of the wheel bearings. (Don't forget the middle one under the sprocket carrier).
  15. With the wheel off, now would be a good time to inspect the Chain Rollers for Wear and Clean them. Refer The Chain Roller FAQ below for details.
  16. Replace the wheel. This is a bit tricky the first time because everything wants to keep falling out. What I do is this. Take the axle bolt and put it through the left side adjuster, put the spacer over the bolt. Holding the tire with both hands and resting it on my foot, I push the tire up into place taking care to get the brake disc between the pads. (or you could remove and replace the pads) Now push the axle the rest of the way through the right side adjuster and put the washer and nut on it. Don't tighten it down yet. Now cut the old chain on the bottom side of the swingarm. (I use a Dremel tool. some grind a rivet head off, others buy a chain cutter/press, others use a hacksaw) Don't pull the chain out! Refer the General Chain FAQ (under Chain Tools) for more information on methods of removing the Old OEM Chain.
  17. Take out your New Chain, set it on a clean cloth. Take the package with the master link and clip and grease in it open it up and set all the pieces on the clean cloth. Hook one of the links of the old chain to one on the new chain and pull the new chain through and around the front sprocket and over the rear one. Make sure you leave the gap on the bottom or the chain will fall out.
  18. Now. Measure your chain. Ensure your rear axle is still in the middle of the adjustment range on both sides of the swingarm (Range is from 1-7). Then pull the chain taut with your hands and align the link to be cut with the master link. Mark this link with a marker. With the OEM 16T (or 15T) Front and 47T Rear, the Classic F Chain has 110 Links. The Dakar has 112. Refer the General Chain FAQ for more information on replacement Chains.
    Warning: Chain positioning and Chain Rollers
    IMPORTANT! "When I changed the chain on my '99 F, I passed the chain *below* the lower roller. When the bike was taken for a test ride the body weight of the rider caused the chain to cut into the roller and shred it. No serious damage because it was noticed immediately. A new roller fixed things. Clearly an act of stupidity on my part but another newbie might make the same mistake so I thought I'd share the experience. I only cut four links off the 120 link chain and I kept wondering why. Unfortunately, I didn't give it enough thought." George
  19. Take another break and contemplate how pissed off you will be if you cut the chain one link too short and render it useless!
  20. Now go back and look at your mark. When you're certain you've marked a FULL link and not a half, and there is plenty of slack to get the proper adjustment, cut the excess off.
  21. Now with the Master Link in hand, Grease two of the O or X-rings (BOTH SIDES) and put them on the link (in the proper orientation according to the picture), Lightly grease the Pins and put it the Link on the chain. Grease two more O or X-rings (BOTH SIDES) and put them over the exposed pins followed by the loose side plate. At this point it will look like the clip will never go on. Have faith. Flash to the rescue. Take one of the side plates off either your old chain or the discarded bit and put it next to the master link, over the NEW Side Plate. See Fitting a Chain for more detail on this procedure.
  22. With a pair of channel locks (This is a brand name of pliers with jaws which expand so that no matter what size you are squeezing the jaws remain parallel. Important for the two jobs you will use them for) squeeze the side plates over the pins. Once the plate has JUST cleared the recess in the pins you're ready to put the clip on. WITH the master link on the bottom of the swingarm, the open bit of the clip should go towards the front of the bike. IMPORTANT: Check the picture on the chain package, The closed end goes in the direction of chain travel. Slide the clip on from the side and make sure it is all the way on and in the recesses of BOTH pins. Here's the Link on the UPPER Leg of the Chain. Here it is on the LOWER Leg of the Chain.
  23. Consider putting either a Tie-Wire or some RTV Silicone over the Master-Clip, for safety as these clips have been known to come off. You will need to CLEAN the Master-Clip and Side-Plate before applying the Silicone. NOTE: As it says on the side of the Chain Packet a Master-Clip is NOT as strong as a Riveted Link. If you wish you can order a Rivet Type Link which is Hollow and use the DID or some other tool to rivet the ends for an endless chain. The Rivet Links are not the default, so order them specifically if you want them. btw RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing. That means that the silicone compound cures at room temperature.
  24. Deep Breath, you're almost there. Take the channel locks and open them all the way, grip one side of the Counter Shaft nut and the other side of the lock washer and squeeze the washer up against one of the flats.
  25. Place a mark, using a permanent marker or other method, across the c/s nut & head of spline. Periodically pull your cover off and check to ensure the marks are still aligned to determine if you're c/s nut is working itself loose.
  26. Adjust the chain per the picture on the swingarm, or owner's manual. Do it slowly, 1/4 turn of each side at a time so they stay even. For Details of Chain Adjustment see the Rear Wheel Removal FAQ.
  27. With the chain adjusted properly, tighten down the rear axle bolt to the proper torque (100Nm). Don't forget to Nip the Adjustor Bolts Tight too.
  28. Reinstall the rear mud scraper & chain guard.
  29. Now for the very most important part: Recheck EVERYTHING. Counter Shaft sprocket O-ring in place (on 1996 and earlier models), lock tab bent over nut, Torqued to 100Nm. Chain master link on properly and clip in proper direction. Rear sprocket torqued (Nylocs are 25Nm if I recall correctly, check this) Rear Wheel greased, adjusted and tightened properly, brakes not binding. Counter Shaft cover back in place. OK.
  30. Go for a ride slowly at first and stop and check everything especially the master link. And congratulate yourself on a job well done. The money you saved will pay for all the tools you had to buy to do the job and the next time you'll already have them and it will take about 1/4 the time it took today. Lube the Chain when warm.

More Photos:

Figure 01 - New Front Sprocket & Chain - Note Rivet Link at 11 O'clock - See also CS Sprocket Nut

Figure 02 - The Old Sprocket about to come off

Figure 03 - Old Front Sprocket & O-Ring Behind Sprocket (note: O-Ring is only used on 1996 and older models using the Circlip rather than the Nut to secure the countershaft sprocket)

Figure 04 - Motion Pro Chain Riveter at work. Normally requires two hands, unless you are taking a photo!

Figure 05 - Rear Half-Axle & Alignment Gauge. New Chain & Sprocket installed.

Figure 06 - Job Complete, New Chain & Sprockets!

Figure 07 - Pre '97 Snap Ring - Left Supplied by BMW (incorrect), Middle Snap-Ring (correct), Right (Kristian's E-Clip Solution)

Figure 08 - EXT means External i.e. Install Sprocket with this face outward.

Figure 09 - Adjustment Marks

Figure 10 - Tension Adjustment Bolts

Figure 11 - RTV Silicone on E-Clip (Pre '97 Bikes ONLY)

Figure 12 - Lower Roller - Dirty Chain

Figure 13 - Upper Roller

Figure 14 - Rear Axle Nut

Figure 15 - RTV Silicone on Chain Master-Clip

Refer also to the:

Quick-Fitting a Chain

by Flash #412 # Kristian #562, May '02

This FAQ is for changing CHAINS only, without the Sprockets.


  1. Put the Bike on the Centrestand.
  2. Loosen the Main Axle Bolt.
  3. Set the wheel toward the front of the adjustment range (a couple notches back from full forward) with the Chain Tension Adjustment Bolts. i.e. Loosen the bolts and PUSH the wheel forward as far it will go.
  4. Cut your old Chain or separate it by removing a link, but do NOT remove it from the bike yet. Special Chain Tools and a variety of methods to do this are outlined in the Chain Tools Section of the General Chain FAQ. I prefer grinding the head off two pins. Of course if you have a Master Clip already, you can simply remove that and lever out the Master Link, to separate the chain.
  5. To install the new chain, make sure the bike is in Neutral so the sprockets can freewheel, and using the master Link (with the pins in it), piece the end of the OLD and NEW chain together, and pull the old chain out past the rear sprocket until the new chain comes around far enough to see both ends of the new Chain. Disengage the old chain from the new one.
  6. (If you bought a 120 link chain, and are going to cut it, MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOT OFF A HALF LINK before marking to cut it. Don't forget to leave some slack. Press a pin out and unless you screwed up, it will be right. Some old dirt biker friends of mine told me ALWAYS fit the chain to the sprockets ON the bike. NEVER just count links and cut the chain on a bench. I decided to learn from their hard-earned mistakes)
  7. Insert master link from Rear WITH the provided X-Rings for that (far) side, Place the provided X-Rings for the Near Side over the exposed Pins, Place face plate on front of link, and compress with Vise Grips. You can also place a # 6 or 8 socket wrench over pin with the C clamp behind the master link and behind socket wrench. Tighten C clamp until seated (pins from rear sticking through face plate in front). Make SURE you grease the X-rings (BOTH sides) and the Pins with the little pack of white grease provided, BEFORE insertion of the Master Link. Don't get any dirt impregnated in the Grease.
  8. TIP: When you go to install a clip-type master link, you may find it difficult to press the side plate on far enough to mount the clip with the X-rings in place. There's a trick you can use:

    Take an open half link from either your old chain or the end you just cut off your new one. Place the link on top of the new side plate with the opening that the pin went through over the pin hole in the side plate. Use your pliers or Vise grips or C-Clamp to squeeze the pin through the side plate. You should alternate pins a couple of times, proceeding slowly.
  9. In three steps or so, you'll have the pins through the side plate ready to receive the Master Clip. Do NOT over-tighten the face plate onto the X-rings, or you will just create a Stiff Link. The master Clip Should slide into place over the grooves in the pins without there being a GAP between the Clip and the face plate or without it being difficult to get the Clip on. The grooves in the pins should just be visible past the Faceplate.
  10. Install the Master Clip with the ROUND END facing in the direction of Travel. See Master Clip in Place. Place the clip over both pins and slide back using a pair of pliers or a Screwdriver, until it sits firmly in the grooves on the pins and the open end is CLOSED.
  11. It is Highly Recommended you RTV Silicone the Master Clip in Place!
  12. Refer the Rear Wheel Removal FAQ for details on realigning the Wheel, setting the Chain Tension and Tightening the Axle.

Swingarm Removal is Easy

Adrian#668, 24-Sep-01


Some people prefer to take off the Rear Wheel and the Swingarm when they change the Chain. While not at all necessary, it has its advantages. Refer the Rear Wheel Removal FAQ for details of Wheel Removal.

The procedure as described in the Shop Manual has ok pictures and description.



It appears that when most people come round to changing the chain and sprockets on their F650 they usually go for an aftermarket chain such as I did. They are probably a stronger chain but the genuine replacement from BMW is also worthy of consideration. For a start it is endless (no master clips or rivets) this results in having to remove the swing-arm to fit it, but since we all should be looking at our swing-arm and idler arm bearings for wear it is a good opportunity to have a real good look down there as well. It is also no harm to give the usually inaccessible places a good clean out, especially since this is the one place that endures the worst than or highways and byways can throw at it. It is also relatively reasonably priced.


This started off as just a simple chain/sprocket replacement so we will stick to that. The genuine BMW "REPAIRSET CHAINWHEEL" (their term) is part No. 27 712 345 694. This contains the following:

On my particular model (pre '97 Classic) the front chain-wheel is held on the gearbox shaft using only the circlip so I had no use for the Hexnut and locking plate. I did notice however that when the new one was fitted it did wave a little as I rotated the shaft. The shaft appeared to be true so I think that it is due to being held only with the circlip. I see from the Pegaso repair manual that it's front sprocket is held in the same manner.


The bikes tool kit contains all the Allen keys that you need but you will also require the following:


  1. Remove the Rear Wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal FAQ).
  2. Open the two bolts connecting the swing arm to the tension strut. (Marked A in the pic.)The right hand one of these has to be removed first as it screwed into threaded lug on the swing-arm. The left hand one is a nyloc nut and bolt.
  3. Hang the rear caliper out of the way (do not remove or open any bolts on this) and unhook the brake line from the swing-arm.
  4. Open the swing-arm pivot bolt and tap it through with a suitable drift. You can then pull the swing-arm back out the way. Watch out for the two nylon washers between the swing-arm pivots and the frame. They sit against the faces Marked "B" in the Photo above.
  5. Remove the three bolts holding the front sprocket cover. Unhook the old chain from the sprocket. Remove the circlip (or Bolt/Washer if your bike is '97 or newer) from the shaft and simply pull the sprocket off. Remove the O ring inside and discard.
  6. You can now give the area a good cleaning. I sprayed WD40 on the surfaces (take care with the bearings) to soften the dirt and simply wiped it clean. The stuff is everywhere keep at it and at least you will have the satisfaction of a clean rear for a few days. You can take the chain guide off the swing arm and clean under it.
  7. When the area is clean gently push the steel bushes from the idler arm bearings.
  8. This will expose the needle bearings. They should have loads of grease around them but put some into the bore and gently rub it all around taking care not to dislodge the needles each time. You can also do the swing-arm bearings in the same way. Take care here not to lose the spongy washers on either side of both pivots. Check for broken needles.
  9. You might also want to grease the Centrestand nipples as they are easy to access (marked "C" in the above Photo). No the colours don't mean a thing)
  10. Unbolt the brake pedal and chain roller (pulley) at this stage I swapped it with the top one but if your roller is fine then just clean both it and the sleeve on which it is mounted. Grease the inside of the roller and put it back. You should put a dab of grease on the brake plunger prior to re-assembly. Remember that your caliper is off the disk so be gentle with the brake.
  11. Put the new O ring on the gearbox shaft. Oil it a little first and just push it on. Fit the Sprocket on the shaft. The sprocket has ext stamped on it to avoid having it mounted the wrong way (external I presume). Put on the new circlip. See Internal/External Snap Rings FAQ before proceeding if your bike is '96 or older.
  12. Push the new chain through and mount it on the sprocket.
  13. Reassemble the idler arm and refit the swing-arm taking care to replace the two nylon washers. I dabbed them with grease and stuck them onto the swing-arm pivot prior to assembly. Enough grease and they will still like s**t to a blanket.
  14. Bolt the tension strut to the swing-arm this time fitting the left bolt first.
  15. Remove the old sprocket from the sprocket carrier on the back wheel (now is a good time to clean the hub and check the bearings. Clean all the gunk from the nylon nuts (it is probably a good idea to replace these nyloc nuts. Refer to the torque table for all torques.
  16. Replace the rear wheel and caliper. Replace the brake line in its restraints. You will notice how much more forward your back wheel is now and probably realise that you should have done this a long time ago (or is it just me).
  17. Replace all the plastic and grin broadly with satisfaction at another job well done. I should note that I am disappointed at how much debris had adhered to the swing-arm, idler-arm and the underside of the bike but I blame it to a certain extent on my gravity chain oiler. It does drip a little and the oil is flung off the chain when riding.

Misc Questions

General Questions

Is this normal to have a new chain and need tightening shortly after install (seems like it would but not sure)?

After tightening the chain to the appropriate 1.4 to 1.8 in. and retightening the axel nut, the chain tensioning screw and the bracket that holds it on seems lose. Is this play normal?

Do I have to put the chain back in the same direction as it was? Spakur #1117

I installed the AFAM 15 tooth sprocket today. With the bike in first gear, I manually checked the shaft for movement. It has at least 1/4" play in it. Is that normal? The play is in the transmission. Rotational about the shaft. Not in the C/S sprocket; it is definitely tight on the shaft. Colorado Bob #1297

What happens if I put the Front Sprocket on the Wrong Way Around?

"Help! I am probing the Collective Consciousness of the Chain Gang to see if there has been anyone with the problem I am having. Bronhilda the '94 F650 has thrown her chain three times. I have visually lined up the sprockets last time I renewed them and the chain 4000km ago and they looked OK. The chain tension was at spec or just a little tighter the last time it happened, breaking the chain. Yes it did throw off the chain (off) every time. The first time it came off, it was with less free-play than spec, but the other two times I progressively reduced the slack to about 20mm. It only broke the last time because I was travelling at about 80km/hr when it came off and wrapped around the side on the rear sprocket. I used the best grade of Regina Gold Link O-ring available. I had not checked the guides and rollers so I guess that it the first place to start." ..... and a little later ..... "Found the problem. Some idiot put the front sprocket on the other way around! The offset was wrong." Nigel in NZ

So What else can cause a Chain Breakage/Derailment?

Is it normal to replace the chain every 12,000 miles?

Free-play in drive shaft / Drive shaft teeth worn

The multi-tooth of the drive shaft where the sprocket is mounted has become a lot of play. The circlip is a week construction and the sprocket went off on the Karakorum Highway in Pakistan. We could repair the drive shaft, but the teeth are worn now. How can we rework the drive shaft, how difficult is it to get the drive shaft out, how can we harden the drive shaft. What parts should we exchange? bikesonworldtour

Chain "jumping" around while on center stand?

I recently changed my chain and front sprocket (15t from 16t). I have the standard rear sprocket which appears to be in good condition with 12k mls on it. If I put the bike on the centre stand and put it in gear the chain jumps. It does'nt hop off either sprocket or anything like that but the uneven running worries me. I am wondering is this normal. The effect increases in the higher gears. The engine is running very smoothly so I'm not putting it down to any engine problems. HarryE #1647

Nyloc nuts on the rear sprocket?

I am just replacing the rear sprocket on my '04 GS. According to the parts fiches the nuts should be "self locking nuts" and the FAQs / DVD state the use of Nyloc nuts (I assume self locking nuts is German translation of nyloc nuts). Strange thing is my GS did not have nyloc nuts on there. Has anyone else found this? I am guessing I put the nyloc nuts on rather than the nuts that came on my bike. Winter #1935

Questions on the Internally Toothed Lock-Washer

by Marty #436

The Tab comes pre-folded? How do you install it if it pre-folded?

Can't I just any washer that will fit and I can bend over? Does it have to have Teeth?

Can I get them anywhere or only from BMW?

Any chance you have that part number somewhere?

Mine arrived with NO Tab. What's with THAT?

The Chain Roller FAQ

by Kristian #562 & Haakon #626. Additional comments by Supertech & David H Park #711.

Different models have different chain rollers:

Checking The Roller is Part of the 12K service.

F650 Classic Rollers

The Lower Roller gets most of the abuse, the Upper doesn't really get hammered much unless you are whooping it through the Bumps, your Suspension is sagging because you have a heavy load on or your Rear Shock is threatening to fail.

What to Check:

Replacing the Upper Roller:

The bit you normally have to replace is the Roll Pin. But as noted above, the Upper Roller doesn't wear much.

Classic Upper Roller Assembly Parts
HEX BOLT 26 11 2 345 365 M8X50
FLAT WASHER 16 11 2 345 084 8.5X24X2
SPACER SLEEVE 26 11 2 345 364 14.3X19.5X33
ROLL PIN 27 72 2 345 664  
SPACER SLEEVE 27 72 2 345 358 8.3X14X34

Replacing the Lower Roller:

The bit you normally have to replace is the Roll Pin. NOTE, You can always swap the (Less worn) upper one down to the lower one to get you going Temporarily.

Classic Lower Roller Parts
FLAT WASHER 16 11 2 345 084 8.5X24X2
ROLL PIN 27 72 2 345 664  
SCREW FILLISTER HEAD 07 11 9 901 036 M8X80
SPACER SLEEVE 27 72 2 345 362 SW
SPACER SLEEVE 27 72 2 345 363  
HEX NUT 36 31 2 345 495 M8
O-RING 27 72 2 345 480 13.95X2.62

F650 GS Roller

As noted above the GS (and the Dakar) has only ONE Roller, an Upper one. The GS Roller has a similar (but not exactly the same) assembly to the Classic.

GS & Dakar Upper Roller Parts #
NUT 51 16 2 328 287 Inbusmutter M8
FLAT WASHER 07 11 9 931 019 A8.4
BUSH 27 72 7 650 285  
FLAT WASHER 07 11 9 936 441 8.4
SPACER BUSHING 27 72 2 345 833 14x19.5x33
SPACER BUSHING 27 72 2 345 832 8.5x14x34
ROLL PIN 27 72 2 345 831  
HEX BOLT WITH WASHER 07 11 9 900 547 M6 x 100 -Z1

F650 Dakar Rollers

As noted above the Dakar has TWO Rollers, an Upper one the same as the GS and a big Lower Roller. Image 1 Image 2 Image 3.

Dakar Only Roller Parts
CHAIN TENSIONING PULLEY 27 72 7 657 449 Complete
SCREW FILLISTER HEAD 07 11 9 920 152 M8X60

The parts numbers for the Upper Roller are as for the GS. It would appear the Upper Roller, like the Classic, doesn't need replacing very often.

If you're looking at the Diagram at your Dealers and he looks confused, On the BMW Parts CD:

The Expensive Dakar Lower Roller

The Dakar Lower Roller, unlike the GS one has Bearings. So far it looks like the Dakar Roller is one complete US$70-$75 Unit. In Norway/Sweden they are as high as US$105. Astounded.? So was Robin #790, who found this:

Chain Roller Feedback

Modified and edited by Kristian #562. Many, Many thanks to Dave & Andy for taking the time and to Spakur for the Extra Comments on the Pre '97 F650.