F650GS/Dakar Aftermarket Frame Accessories FAQ
Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.

For Classic Accessories and Opinions on Frame Accessories including for the GS/Dakar, see the Classic Aftermarket Engine Protection FAQ


Touratech Footpeg Installation Guidelines for F650GS

edited by Norm#874, Kristian#562

Step 1: Place the bike on its center stand on a flat, hard surface.

Step 2: Remove the three, Torx 40 bolts that secure the left and right foot peg brackets to the bike.

Step 3: On the left side, remove the shift lever by removing the 5mm pinch bolt, then slide the lever off.

Step 4: On the right side, to remove the brake lever, first

·         disconnect the clip with a small screwdriver that connects the actuator rod to the brake pedal ; 

·         unscrew the Torx 40 bolt that the lever pivots on, saving the bolt, washer and bushing.

Step 5: Once the foot peg brackets are off the bike, disassemble the stock pegs from the brackets by sliding the cotter pins out and removing the spring, spacer, and washer.

Note: The tricky part is putting the new foot pegs in the new brackets. To do this you reuse the pin, spring, washer, and spacer from the old brackets. I installed and removed the pin several times to get the action smooth. Put the spring around the spacer and put the unit in the new peg. While holding the peg/spacer/spring assembly, slide the entire assembly into the new bracket. Put the bent end of the spring into the little dimple in the bracket. Now slide the pin through the front bracket flange, peg, spacer, peg, and finally the back bracket flange. Put the washer on and put the new cotter pin that came with the kit through the hole in the pin and bend.

Step 6: Repeat Step 5 on the second foot peg assembly...

Step 7: Mount new brake lever. First adjust the actuator rod from the brake to make it longer so the brake will still work. To assemble the brake pedal you need the solid spacer from the old brake lever. You will


·         Insert the spacer in the pedal then slide the original bolt with washer through the spacer.

·         Install the spring around the spacer, then slide the whole unit into place and start the Torx 40 bolt.

·         Adjust and line up the spring so that it is hooked on both ends (see picture on the Touratech docs).

·         Tighten the bolt solidly (about 15 ft/lbs).


Note: Adjusting the brake actuator rod is a pain. You have to break the glue put on to keep the adjustment in place. I had to lengthen the rod by about 1 cm or so (give or take) to make the brake activate just after the brake light switch was activated. Some people reported problems with the brake light... I didn't have any.


·         Re-attach the clip from the rear of the lever to the actuator rod.

Step 8: Install the pegs.


·         Install the top screw first on each side but don't tighten it.

·         Install the lower screws on each side but don't tighten them.


Note: If you aren't using the rally or other after market side stand, on the left side there is a rubber/metal flange to catch the side stand. Don't forget to install that on the rear bolt.


·         Adjust bracket alignment then tighten all the screws on each foot peg bracket.

Step 9: Install the shift lever by removing the 5mm pinch bolt (if the bolt is in it won’t go on, I promise!) Stand on the bike to find the location of the shift lever that suits you. Install the pinch bolt and tighten.

Now you are ready to ride.

BTW=> I've only ridden around the block with them but they seem to be GREAT! I've ridden DHP's world tourer with them and they make standing on the pegs a piece of CAKE!

Here's some pics of the RHS Foot peg/Brake and LHS Foot peg/Clutch Shifter, before (Top) and after, supplied by Gerry #951


The new right side footpeg sticks out further than the original. The left side is about the same. They are located down and back from the original. Using the common points in the photographs, it's easy to see. It's not a great deal of distance but it does feel slightly better. The footpegs are much wider and more comfortable also.



Wunderlich Aftermarket Footpegs


Jesse Xtender Kickstand

On my Dakar, the amount of lean when on the stand is excessive. When the bike is loaded it takes a huge effort to stand it up straight. I decided to utilize the Jesse extender after exploring other options. I originally thought $50 was too much for a simple device. When no other easily-deployed options surfaced, I went ahead and ordered one from Al Jesse. It is a very well-made and thought-out accessory. It is the right length and very sturdy. It uses an expansion plug/throughbolt on both ends. The instructions are bogus and confusing. They show a picture of a sidestand being cut off at the bottom right above the "foot" with a hacksaw. What's worse, the directions tell you do the same thing. Then after you have cut the foot off, you realize that in the case of the F650GS, the stand should have been cut off further up, right next to the tang you use to deploy the stand with. I have made it work, but it could have been cleaner and better if the instructions had been for this bike. I called Jesse and they confirmed that the instructions were for a different older Airhead model, but they include the same generic one with all the models of extensions, even though the procedures are indeed different! Such a quality piece of machine work and such poorly executed instructions and picture... Bert #1131


Photo courtesy of Gerry#951


Other Protective Guards

compiled by Brad #1002

Chain Guards


bg's Stuff

from bg's Stuff



Scott's Disc Guard




from Touratech USA or Touratech Germany



Brake Component Guards


Rear Master Cylinder

from Touratech USA or Touratech Germany



Front ABS Sensor

from bg's Stuff



Wunderlich Rear Master Cylinder Guard

from BMW Santa Cruz



Scott's Rear Disc Guard (Shark Fin)

from Scott's Performance


Courtesy of DHP#711. Here.


Feedback on Various Guards


Master Cylinder Protection.

Hand Guards

See the After Market Handle Bar FAQ


Engine Protection Bars, Sump Guards & Bash Plates

compiled & edited by Kristian #562

BMW Stock Bars

Hepco-Becker Engine Protection Bars

Touratech Engine Guard

Touratech Engine Bash Plate

Touratech Suspension Guard

bg's Stuff Shock Guard

Happy Tails Engine Guard



This section shows Photos and gives some Installation Tips.

For Opinions on ALL Protection Bars, with Feedback on Both Classic & GS/Dakar, refer the Classic Frame Fairing FAQ.


BMW Stock Bars

from Raleigh
The Engine Protection Bars are from BMW. The Bash Plate is from R.J. Holtham. Refer the Dakar Centre Stand FAQ for further Details


What is the BMW Engine guard mounting-torque?
PaulRJ #1218 Boston

The one a mounted on my '98 Classic asked for 50nm for each of the 4 bolts. Actually it doesn't explicitly say each bolt. It says (after telling you to ".... tighten with new self-locking nut from retrofit kit"): ATTENTION. The tightening Torque is 50 Nm.


BMW Bars photo from www.bmwscruz.com



from Joe at Joe Equip F650GS.



Hepco-Becker from Wuedo. German) or Wudo (USA)



Touratech Engine Guard

from Touratech USA or Touratech Germany

Upper Bars           Lower Bars

Installation notes from TOMN


Note Tomn has mounted a PIAA light on the Bars.

  1. Unsnap the fairings at radiator.

  2. Unscrew the top screws of plastic radiator cover @down tube.

  3. Loosen the bottom screws (instruction says to unscrew but just loosen, and very hard to get to so save your wrist)

  4. Unscrew lower front M8 engine mount to down tube -you will see the photo on instruction and i think you can tell from their web site pic.

  5. 2- M6 Stainless screws 2- M6 washers, 2- M12 washers, they all replace the top most screws of radiator plastic cover screws: crash bars attach between the plastic and the frame. Insert the washer (used as spacer and you will know why once you take the original screws out. Sneak the bar over, then put back the plastic over the bar, fasten with the new M6 +M6 washer.

  6. 1 M8 long 1 M8 locking nut and washer replace the engine mount screw on the down tube-the bottom end of the bar goes there.

    All will take 15 minutes if you do have a clean bike, no bent pieces and screws are not frozen. My fairing has bent up snub (phallic looking plastic poker which inserts into the radiator cover) and was a dog to get it back into the place. Says to tighten all to 21 NM but only the M8 can be done with my tool set. A good deal of patience or those "dry set lock tight" will be needed to even apply thread lock as screw holes are hard to hit -you will see what I mean -just keep an eye on those radiator cover screws.
    The radiator cover screws are very pain to tighten once the crash bars are in -could use flex jointed ratchet extension and Torx bit but who's got such at home. could buy 3- 6 packs instead.
    After this was done, I futzed with a yellow PIAA driving light I always need to keep "left turners" away -was hit before and since the light, not once such in 3 years. This took almost 3 hours to figure out and arrange already made brackets to work with the new bar. My son was starving by then 9:30pm -Bad dad, bad dad.

    Note: the lower corner of the radiator is situated between the bar top and bottom. Though farther recessed in from the plane defined by the foot peg, the bar and the handle bar at any angles, if a big rock happens there, you still might get the radiator dinged. They could add another vertical piece in that area, or you could. Hope I will never know.

  7. Crash bars also helped me mount a driving light, a big yellow PIAA –the other one of pair is on my R12C for the last 2 years. PIAA flips back and a little less prone to breakage for off pavement (I fall only 1in 3 to the right side!) and now that I am back I made a better bracket as posted. Not 100% crash proof even when flipped away but easy to flip and does a good job of lighting and keeping Cagers from turning into my path too close. 3”x 1 1/4” x1 1/4” L- angle, 2- 3/4” pipe clamps are all there is to this set up (one side only).


Touratech Engine Bash Plate

from Touratech USA or Touratech Germany

The Right Hand Photo is one of their RF650RR Rallye Bike Sumpguards and has a reservoir for water or Tools. For the version with the storage box that you will need
to purchase additional mounting rails and change the oem sidestand for the Touratech version (stronger and different mounting point). Need to specify this with Touratech at order time as it's not a standard conversion for the GS/Dakar (i.e. not frequently ordered except for Rallye kits). The benefits of carbon fiber = lighter weight, stronger. The OEM BMW crash bar is REALLY HEAVY. DHP#711



Touratech Suspension Guard

from Touratech USA or Touratech Germany



bg's Stuff Shock Guard

from bg's Stuff



Touratech Underbelly Pan Extension

from Touratech USA or Touratech Germany



Happy Trails Engine Guard




from Robert #1071

These look dangerous on a sharp corner. Too much lean and BAM. So be careful making your own.



from Guz.




For Opinions on Protection Bars in General, (Both Classic & GS/Dakar) refer the Classic Frame Fairing FAQ.


Radiator Grills


Wunderlich Photo from www.bmwscruz.com



Touratech Photo from www.touratech-usa.com



Touratech Photo from Adam 906.



Homemade Radiator Guards#1

by Jack in Oz

Homemade Radiator Guards for the BMW F650GS



More Homemade Radiator Guards

by Tink


For Opinions on Radiator Grills in General, (Both Classic & GS/Dakar) refer the Classic Frame Fairing FAQ.