Accessory Socket FAQ For BOTH F & GS (First Draft)

compiled & edited by Kristian #562
Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.
 

 

Alternative Electrical Connections & Plug Types

 

I have a BMW accessory plug hardwired with a two prong type male/female jack from Radio Shack. If the M/F jack from your vest will mate up correctly, you should be able to do a similar setup. And if you finaggle it all just right, you will be able to use the same wiring to hook up your battery tender.

 

Eclipse Electric Vest Connection – What Plug Fits ?

 

The Eclipse vest has the common SAE (trailer-type) connector (where plug and socket are identical parts). Yes, you could get an SAE plug (at Radio Shack, say) and wire it directly to the battery with an in-line fuse. However, a better solution is to simply connect your vest to the accessory sockets on your BMW's. (If you don't have one for the GS, it's available as an add-on.) To use the bike's accessory socket, you need to either replace the SAE plug on your vest with a BMW plug, or attach it to an SAE-to-BMW (male) plug adapter. I'd recommend the latter. The adapter would also be useful if you ever get a trickle charger--like a Battery Tender (which comes with an SAE plug). Also, if one day sell the vest, you might be glad you hadn't snipped the plug off. You can either make an SAE-to-BMW adapter, or buy one. Aerostich (www.aerostich.com) sells one for $12 (cat. #116). If you make one, wire the exposed metal prong to ground, to avoid shorts in case it contacts metal. Cary

 

Accessory Socket - Where is it ?

 

Classic F

On the classic F the accessory outlet is typically installed on the left engine cover (I think that's its official name, but it's the black plastic piece that runs from the bottom of the front fairing to the back of the gas tank). It's mounted 1"-2" below the top mounting screw, approx. in line with the petcock. Sorry, no picture. It is connected directly to the battery with a fused line and a quick disconnect plug at the outlet to allow easy removal of the engine cover. James #523.

 

Anon Supplied this Template:

 

and these instructions: (Retrofit Kit)

(Accessory Plug Location Circled).

 

F650 GS

I just installed one on my 01, so I'll try to explain. (It took me forever as well, the instructions are very confusing). On the right side of the bike, at the rear of the "tank', and it front of a fuse block, are two sets of electrical wires clipped/ fastened piggyback style together, and bolted to the bike with a metal screw. The outside wires are disconnected and then,

1) the existing male side is connected to the female side of the clip connected to the accessory switch, and

2) the existing female side is connected to the accessory switch male plug.

In other words, the accessory switch is now "wired into" the bikes wiring loom. (on my bike, the color of the wires going into the existing plugs were similar to those on the clips connected to the accessory plug). Now there are 3 sets of connectors which piggyback each other and are connected to the frame via a metal screw in the same way as before. Greg

The Accessory Socket Installation FAQ

by Marty Graves #436

This FAQs is about installing the F650GS accessory plug (BMW part number 71 60 7 653 870 - US$39 - in 4/2004). Be advised that the BMW instructions are some of the least helpful BMW installation instructions I have seen, so I will be supplementing them as we go (I will assume you received a copy of these with your kit).

 

Required tools: 

  1. Remove seat.  Remove the turn signal pods from both sides of bike.  Unplug wiring and remove pods from bike. (4 screws on each pod - squeeze the tabs on the wiring plug to release). 
  2. Remove the left and right side faux tank covers.  This requires removing three screws, lifting up at the center, and pulling (GENTLY) the peg out of the rubber grommet at the front lower area.  For the left side, you will need to remove the oil fill cap for just long enough to remove the cover, the re-install it so no "stuff" gets inside the oil tank.  At this point, it would be wise to remove the center panel and disconnect he battery (remove the negative cable first - install it last).  You may take this opportunity to remove it and fill the cells with distilled water to the proper level and clean all the connections.  You may also want to check and fill the radiator "burp tank", if needed (while it's accessible).
  3.  Assemble the socket by putting it through the hole in the bracket (direction is important), then starting the nut on the threaded backside.  If yours is like mine, the nut won't fit over the plug's connector tabs - just push it down as far as it will go - square it up, and start "screwing" it onto/over the tabs (probably need to use the wrench).  It will eventually self-thread itself and work over the tabs.  Be SURE you have the socket the right way around in the bracket, as the nut will be difficult or impossible to remove at this point without damaging something.  Now that the nut is in a usable location, put a dab of Loctite on the socket threads where the nut will end up.  Rotate the socket in the bracket - you will find that it is "indexed" to keep the hinge in the designated location (a little tab on the socket fits into a little notch on the bracket, keeping the socket from rotating).  Be sure you have the socket indexed correctly, then tighten the nut snugly.  If you tighten without being indexed, you may damage the indexing tab, and may find the socket working loose in the future.  At this point, pay particular attention to where BMW wants the cable to be routed - you should probably try to wiggle the socket connector on the wiring through the proper way from the seating area, before plugging it into the socket (I didn't and had to loosen some cylindrical gizmo to make room to get the BIG plugs through from the other direction).
  4. Remove the two bolts (arrows), install the bracket/socket (pay attention to wiring routing), put a dab of Loctite on each bolt and reinstall them tightly.  (Optional - torque to 8 Nm)  See picture of left side of bike, near engine, below.

 

  1.  The cable needs to be properly routed along the front facing (inner?) side of the horseshoe bracket that supports the rear of the faux tank panels.  Next, you need to locate the fuse box (just to the left of A in the picture), and move it out of the way.  Insert a screwdriver (see picture below), push the tab far to the left (toward fusebox), and slide the fusebox away from the bike (toward you).  Once it slides clear of the latch, move it out of the way to access the connector.  Note that the connector is secured to the frame with a Phillips screw (B) and indexed into location with a pin in a hole (C).

 

 

Here's a different view of the same area from above… you can just see the white connector with the colored wires.  Also, note the fuse box is now out of the way.

 

 

  1. Remove the Phillips screw.  There is only one plug that will mate with the one you just loosened.  If you have BMW heated grips, that socket you just unscrewed is already occupied, and the grips will have to be unplugged (temporarily) first.  Plug the accessory plug wiring into the unscrewed socket.  If you look closely, you will find that the OTHER accessory plug is identical to the unscrewed one.  Better yet, you can slide it together (side-to-side) with the unscrewed one to "mate" and form a BIGGER plug.  And if you have the BMW heated grips, they plug back into this accessory socket.  You'll also note that the fuse in the accessory wiring will ALSO piggy-back onto this rapidly growing connector.  I decided NOT to do this, as you MIGHT need to actually REPLACE that fuse.  So recheck your wiring routing, and assuming that it is OK, go ahead and reinstall the plug to the frame - indexing it properly, and then reinstalling the Phillips screw (I DON'T recommend using Loctite on plastic).  If you've followed all this up to this point, you're probably saying "easier said than done", and no truer words were spoken.  But we're almost done…
  2. Note where I have my fuse lead (red bits at bottom of picture above).  Check your wiring position one more time, then use the three included cable ties to fasten the wiring to the inside of the horseshoe shaped bracket - one on the right side (just above fuse box, as in pictures above), one on the left side (symmetrical to the right side one), and one in the center.  It should look as pictured above.  I clipped the cable tie from the frame (see picture above) and secured the fuse to it (see "D" - second picture above).  Slide the fuse box back on to its mounting bracket.
  3. Re-connect the battery (negative lead LAST).  Be sure to put a cable tie around the battery vent tube to secure it to the battery (several inmates have had battery acid eat bike parts when this tube came loose).  Don't forget the strap that secures the battery.  Test the new accessory outlet.  THEN, reassemble the bike in the reverse of above (be sure to remove and replace the oil fill cap for the left side faux tank cover).

Test your turn signals before riding off.  And enjoy that new heated vest… (or whatever it was that prompted you to install the outlet).

 

Heated Grips Connection - Where is it ?

 

Classic Q. Can anyone help me locate the heated grips socket shown on the pre-01 wiring diagram I see plenty of black/green wiring, but can't seem to find the socket.

GS/Dakar Q. I am installing a set of Kimpex heater elements on my bike for heated grips. I am still unclear where the connector for the heated grips is located. I have located a 3 pin molex style connector on the right side frame piece next to/under the Airbox. It is attached to a blue connector which is in turn attached to the frame via a screw. This connector contains a brown (grd), a red (hot), and a grn/yel (acc power) wires. Can some one confirm if this is the connector intended for heated grips on the factory kits? Did not see any free connectors in the junction box directly behind the steering head. I suspected this is the correct one, but I questioned it due to the absurd location it was found. Makes no sense to me why a handlebar function would have a connector back in the middle of the vehicle.

For more on Heated Grips see the Heated Grips FAQ.

 

Alternative Sources for Accessory Plug & Jack

Jastek

John Deere

Warmsafe

Widder

Does the F650GS BMW accessory socket kit fit a Classic?
by Harl #380
 

The GS/Dakar kit is different from the Classic kit. The Classic kit connects to the battery directly while the GS kit connects to a plug on the wiring harness. The socket mounting is different as well.

Notes:

Installing a Cigarette Lighter Plug

Q. I have a 12v power plug installed on my Dakar. As you know it is different than the common "cigarette lighter" plug cars have. I am looking for a proper name to call the (Dakar) plug so I can send it (the name) to some guys that build some kind of universal charger and only have the cigarette lighter plug and not even know of the other.  Any links and photos about it, should help too.

Do it yourself Accessory Plugs

( Apart from this site: Making an Accessory Plug
http://www.morrowmarsh.ca/concours/techpages/bmwaccessplug.htm )


Q.
I want to add an accessory plug on my Dakar. One of them (Dealer) told me that ok I can order the accessory plug for €40. Then he told me "yes but then you need the extra adaptor to turn the 220v (remember I am in Europe) to 12v" (!!!!!!!!!!)... and this for extra €54. I always thought that the accessory plug did DIRECTLY output 12v DC and didn't mess with 220v AC! And then that I only needed a simple adaptor to change the plug to a more "common" (at least in Greece) "cigarette lighter" plug. But no 220AC-to-12DC! Was I THAT wrong? Or was the reseller full of sh*t? After all it is a complex circuitry to make 220v AC from battery power (and more complex than turning 220v AC to 12v DC like most power adapters at home do). So even the two prices look a bit weird (40 for the complex thing, 54 for the simple thing).?

Accessory Socket Fuses

Accessory Socket Polarity?
by Flash #412

Q. Is the middle, pointy bit on the plug for the BMW accessory socket pos. or neg.? i.e. Where do I wire the (+) positive and (-) negative on the socket. Is the "inside" point the (+) or is the "outside" ring on the female socket (+)??
A. The center contact is the positive contact. i.e. "inside" point the (+).