GS/Dakar Hard Starting/Poor Running FAQ

compiled & edited by Kristian #562
Edited and Updated by Winter, 29 December 2005
Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.
4 January 2006

• Introduction
  • Throttle Debate: To use or not to use, that is the question!
  • Temp Light Debate: When to push the starter?
  • Flat Battery Warning
• Section 1: Starting Your GS/Dakar
  • Starting Procedure (Short Version)
  • Starting Procedure Mark II
    • Should the temp light come on when you turn the ignition to the on position?
  • Cold Starting
  • Push Starting
  • Can I start my GS without a Battery?
  • Jump Starting - see the Battery FAQ
• Section 2: Troubleshooting
  • General Questions
    • I've been told that Surging & Stalling may be sensitive to Starting Procedure.
    • The battery terminals on the GS come loose easily. Is this normal?
    • Cannot Start Bike in Gear even with Clutch Lever In & Sidestand UP?
  • Table: Other Things To Check
• Section 3: Opinions
  • Starting Procedure Mark I
  • Cold Starting
  • Hard Starting
  • Push Starting
  • Cannot Start Bike in Gear even with Clutch Lever In & Sidestand UP?
  • Motronic Requires Reprogramming
  • Fuel Sump Screen

See also the:

• Classic Hard Starting FAQ - (Ignore carb-related issues) for General Information.
• And then there is the Rotax 655 Troubleshooting FAQ
• Check the Surging and Stalling FAQ
• Worried about strange noises when you turn your bike on / off? Check the Strange Noises FAQ. Some noises are very normal.

Starting the newer Fuel Injected F650's (GS, Dakar and CS) can be somewhat different for beginners. Some people find the official starting method does not work, and use a slightly different method or add an extra step. There is now also a diagnostic table in the Classic Hard Starting / Poor Running FAQ that will help you figure out what is wrong.

Much of the FAQ opinions comment on the use of the throttle during the starting procedure. If you are experiencing problems starting or running your bike, you are encouraged to check other possible causes first. If nothing else fixes your problem, you may need to apply the throttle when starting the bike. However this is not the recommended procedure.

Another debate is over when it is safe to start your bike (ie Can you start it before the temp light stops flashing?). Some say it is okay, however the recommended method is to wait. Besides - what is waiting an extra 3 seconds or so?

from Trevor#999's Expert-who-never-lies, in the BMW Head Office in the UK.

1. Switch on ignition. (The BMS unit carries out a self test at this time, checking that it is receiving it's signalling data. This includes throttle position!, engine and air intake temp. It will then calculate the exact inject time required for when the starter button is depressed). Saying that you had to "wait for the light to go out" was just a way of ensuring customers did not hit the button too quickly! (ergo, if you wait for the temperature light to go out that's probably long enough to complete the self-test. ed.)
2. Press the starter button until the engine fires and then release. (The engine will have to turn over and maybe will rotate for what seems a long time. The control unit counts the rotations so it can work out the exact position of the piston and will calculate the correct timing and injection sequence) (( DO NOT be tempted to open the throttle whilst cranking. The control unit does not memorise the setting for the throttle position potentiometer and takes a new base setting each time the ignition is switched on and engine started.)) (It would seem NOT touching the throttle is still a requirement, despite the above feedback from BMW rep Canada. ed.)
3. When the engine has started and is running the following things will happen. The BMW system will richen the mixture at all times when cranking for a start and also when the engine temp reads cold. When the engine reaches 80-85 degrees the oxygen sensor part of the programme starts to operate. The electronic engine idle valve controls the tick over speed and uses the throttle potentiometer signal, base setting as a reference point. You also get fuel injection shut off on overrun as a form of additional engine braking and improved economy. I.E. If you close the throttle whilst riding at 5,000 RPM the injector stops injecting until the engine speed has dropped down to about 2,200 RPM where upon the injectors are again operated.
4. The electronic idle valve can cause some confusion as when the ignition is switched off, it takes 7 seconds to retract to it's rest position. There was some discussion that this could cause problems during a failed start or if the rider stalled the bike, however I can only see this being a problem if the ignition was switched off and on quickly. (Hence the warning in the BMW manuals to wait at least 3 seconds before turning the bike back on - ed.).
5. The ignition pick up from the crankshaft is very simple indeed as has no way of working out piston acceleration etc as suggested on the "weird" website. It quite simply causes a spark to fire each time the sensor is pulsed. This means that the system runs a 'wasted' spark process which allows the spark plug to fire on the exhaust stroke.
6. Version 10 software and higher does not remember the throttle position but may be able to calculate a changed value. The control unit memory is a 'volatile' type and the software version cannot change this.

• Both the temp light and the oil light should come on on the GS and CS, (the temp light for 3 - 5 seconds then the temp light should go out). Not forgetting the neutral light if the bike's in neutral. Trevor#999
• On a FI GS/CS the temp light will not come on when you turn on the ignition if the bike's side stand is down and you are in gear (unless you pull in the clutch lever).

The F650GS has a strong battery and is okay for doing prolonged/repeated starts. It can be normal for the F650GS to have to crank for several cycles before firing. Neutral is always the place to start. Correct oil weight for cold starting is an obvious thing to have right (some people do a full cold-weather prep and others just ride like normal). The normal starting procedure should work, however here are some additional tips:

• Let it crank, and don't be afraid to dial in a smidgen of throttle...My feeling is that FI isn't like a carburettor with an accelerator pump, but if it makes your GS feel good, that's the answer. (See the Throttle Debate)
• Keep the bike in a nice warm room / indoors / in a garage.
• Try heating the engine block.
• The BMW Riders Manual recomends disengaging the clutch (pull the clutch lever in) below 0C/32F

Thanks to Richard #230, davidhpark711, Raymo #1173, NLS, Al from Oregon, Flash #412, Trevor #999

Is it possible to push start a GS? I couldn't get it to start yesterday evening, coming home from work. Seemed to be just the cold (heated grips running all the time, and left the bike for a week). It Worked fine after I got a jump from a car. But I was trying to figure out how I would start the bike if I couldn't have gotten the jump. The starter is disabled when it is in gear with the clutch released. I need to hit the starter (I think) to get all the electronics going. I need to have it moving in gear to turn the engine over.

Short Answer: YES...

1. Find a hill (or a friend that can push like h*ll)
2. Put the bike in 2nd or 3rd gear (see hint below)
3. Pull the clutch in and let the bike roll down the hill
4. When you think you are going fast enough, pop the clutch (release the clutch)
5. Be prepared to pull the clutch in quickly once the engine starts, otherwise you may stall the bike
6. Also be prepared for the rear wheel to skid

Caveats / Hints and Tips:

• Trying to start the engine unsuccessfully for too long is bad for your catalytic converter (push starting _or_ just holding the button down). Note: The BMW Riders Manual (Australian Version) states: To avoid damage to the catalytic converter: Push-start only when the engine is cold - this warning is probably to reduce the risk of the catalytic converter melting (see next point)
• There is nothing wrong with bump starting a motor with a catalytic converter provided that it either starts and runs or else doesn't start at all. What melts cats is continued running of an over-rich mixture (unburnt fuel), like when you have a dead spark plug on a multi-cylinder engine. The hot cat, heated by the exhaust gasses of the other cylinder (s) will overheat due to the unburned fuel of the dead cylinder, and then melt. If it doesn't run enough to get hot, it doesn't get hot enough to melt. If the motor catches and runs normally... there is no problem because the unburned fuel will quickly burn off as the cat heats normally.
• The ECU / FI unit / BMS-C must have enough power to begin with. In otherwords if the dash lights do not come on in their normal sequence when you turn the key on, you either have a busted fuse or there is not enough power for the ECU.
• You've got to keep a good min voltage/power otherwise you can fry the solenoid by trying to start the bike using the button when it's got too low of a charge.
• Once running, keep it running and ride it to charge it then put it on a battery tender.
• Personally I wouldn't use second gear with such a high-compression engine, you're likely to lock the wheel and skid. Third gear would be more sense for first attempt.

For more detailed information on how the FI system works (during a push start), check the Fuel Injection FAQ.

The general answer is NO...

• I was told by BMW tech that you cant push start the GS if its totally flat battery cos you need a little bit of power to run the Engine Management System when starting up.He said it should push start if theres a bit of life in battery. stevo
• You guys seem to have forgotten that the fuel pump has to run long enough to pressurize the system for the injectors to work. Flash 412 (CO)

I've been told that Surging & Stalling may be sensitive to Starting Procedure

That's what BMW say. Here's the procedure. See GS Starting Procedure.

The battery terminals on the GS come loose easily. Is this normal?

In off-roading the bikes I definitely have found a few times the loose connections in the batteries which cause 'mystery' starting problems. It's a PITA because the covers have to come off, but fixable/avoidable nonetheless. DHP #711

• The battery problem is very common. If you look at the design of the cables that go to the battery you will see that they have a lever effect on the fasteners to the side that vibration causes them to loosen. Bad design. I am sure BMW has seen this problem because all the new bikes coming through have lock washers taped to the top of the battery as an after thought. I have installed these lock washers on my bike and it has cured the problem. Stuportech

See also the General Battery FAQ.

Starting Procedure Mark I

If this is followed, the computer boots correctly and the S&S is minimal whatever the software or injector versions are. I usually switch on and stand by the bike putting on my gloves, watch the pretty lights. That takes the right sort of time for the comp to boot.

For the F650GS, the Water Temp Warning Light goes through the following cycle:

1. With gearbox in neutral and run switch on, the water temp warning light will come on when the ignition is switched on (and kill switch set to run!).
2. Wait for the water temp warning light to go out (it takes 2-3 seconds). The electronics have now gathered information on the engine temperature etc.
3. Now press and hold the starter button for a few seconds until the engine is running smoothly, I usually wait for the revs to drop by a notch on the dial as the tick-over is set. DO NOT twist the throttle at all during the process, you'll just confuse the electronics.

When you turn the key.., the ABS (if you have ABS), neutral (if you are IN Neutral), the oil and water temp lights go on. In the still of a silent garage you will hear a low whirring noise under the seat. That "whirring noise" is most likely your fuel pump coming on, building up pressure and then shutting off when the regulator tells it to. The ABS light goes out and shortly thereafter the temp. light goes out. The grinding noise has stopped and you can start the bike. If you do not start the bike and turn the key off, the little grinding noise goes on again for about 1 full second.

• Update: It has been suggested that the difference between v10.0 and v10.1 of the FI Software is that in the latest 10.1 version Motronic now ignores the throttle position and it doesn't matter if you twist the throttle or not. To be confirmed. Previously the above Tip required you to NEVER touch the throttle.
• Originally: The BMS computer uses a number of inputs but there are two primary ones. Throttle position is one of these. Starting a cold engine with throttle opening gives the computer bad input. It will effect the way the bike runs until restarted. Have your dealer fix the problem. No throttle opening is required or should ever be used. Supertech
• Then: 10.1 software and start-up: I had a conversation very recently with the top after-sales manager of BMW Canada's motorcycle division, in which he put a slightly different spin on what the 10.0 upgrade for the F650GS does. For me, it certainly cleared up some of the conflicting advice and opinions on the use of the throttle when starting the bike.  BMW was adamant about not using the throttle when starting because it confused the TPS. The software assumed that what it sensed was the reading for a closed throttle. Down the road when the bike stopped, the closed throttle was below what it expected and the bike was prone to stalling. The 10.1 upgrade tells the software to IGNORE the throttle position on start-up, and the stalling problem goes away. Ta-da! Given this change to the software, the total ban on touching the throttle during start-up is no longer the big issue that it was. Apparently it is very easy to move the throttle slightly without meaning to, when using one's thumb. It was recommended that one use one's index finger on the starter button, to avoid the problem. I have trouble believing that many riders would do that. I for one am uncomfortable unless my hand is safely on the grips, thank you. Maybe it wasn't a great design in the first place, but obviously BMW decided they were fighting a losing battle on this issue, and changed the software. I didn't think to ask him, but I assume the '02 bikes have incorporated the change. I have an '01. mspeed #1023

As you can see from above, there is some debate about whether to WAIT for the Temp light to go out or not before starting the F650GS. The Classic doesn't have this Problem. Only the oil light should come on with the F650 (carburetted models).

For:

• The water temp light IS supposed to come on when switching on the ignition. You DO need to wait until it goes out to start the engine. This bike is controlled by a computer and has to be given time to boot up. The temp light going out is an indication that the "computer" has booted. SScratch
• I learned to always wait for the temp light to go out after 3 seconds. If not, I would have stalls. Waiting...I have never had a problem. Bobcatou

Against:

• My BMW F650 technical contact at BMW Head Office in the UK never tells me lies, so as far as I am concerned this is the correct answer. You do not have to wait for the temperature light to go out when starting the F650 at any time. When the light comes on it indicates a self-diagnosis of the electronics system is taking place, so it's quite safe to start the motor while the light is still on. If it continues to stay on after 3 seconds or so, then there is something amiss with the bikes electronics, (or the water temperature), but that's highly unlikely on a cold engine. Ever since I've owned my bike I've thrust the key in and started the engine immediately and it's never thrown up any faults or given me any problems, so 'worry not' about it. Trevor, Bristol, UK.

Cold Start Note 1

by Supertech, 02-Feb-02

The above tip for cold weather starting says to turn the twist grip a couple of times to aid starting. This WILL cause problems in the form of a surge or stall. The latest BMW APPROVED way to start this bike is to:

Turn on the key, wait at least one second, do not touch the throttle, push the starter and keep the button pushed until after the engine starts, then ride the bike .

Do not warm it up. It will warm up fast by riding.

(According to the Note above, under Starting Procedure, the 10.1 upgrade tells the software to IGNORE the throttle position on start-up, and the stalling problem goes away. Given this change to the software, the total ban on touching the throttle during start-up is no longer the big issue that it was. )

Cold Start Note 2

by Trevor #999, 02-Feb-02

The throttle *should* remain closed for all starting, cold or hot, because the software *should* take account of the starting conditions and automatically increase air or petrol for the correct fuel/air mix in whatever conditions the bike is in.

The *Throttle Position Sensor* gets its information during the first couple of revolutions of the engine, (info from BMW expert), so there's no reason why you can't then crank it a little after the first couple of revolutions. That won't affect the running of the engine afterwards.

If you need to crank the throttle from the outset it *should* affect the way the FI works, by having a different "Closed Throttle" position in its memory until you next stop the engine.

If you feel you're the bike is not running right after starting it with the throttle cranked slightly, then let it run for a few minutes till it's warm, switch off and just restart it with closed throttle. That will set the "throttle position sensor" correctly for the *new* start.

(According to the Note above, under Starting Procedure, the 10.1 upgrade tells the software to IGNORE the throttle position on start-up, and the stalling problem goes away. Given this change to the software, the total ban on touching the throttle during start-up is no longer the big issue that it was. )

Cold Start Note 3

by Bill #1031, 02-Feb-02

Every bike is a little different.  It makes sense that upon KEY-ON the ECU senses the throttle position and assumes it to be closed. OK, so we have the throttle closed when first turning on the key. While that position sensing is almost instantaneous, you can wait until the temp light goes out and then press the start button.

Allow a couple of revs. If no start, then ABRUPTLY open the throttle about 1/2 way. The sudden opening is sensed by the ECU and activates an enrichening sequence. And for me this gets the bike to start instantly. And then quickly close the throttle and let the ECU take over and keep the bike idling.

I noted that the ECU does the enrichening thing by observing the high speed LED indication on the Fuel Nanny. Opening the throttle slowly does not invoke the richer pulse signals to the FI unit. Fast opening of the throttle does.

Even slow opening of the throttle helps my '01 Dakar start. Do whatever works for your bike. Just make sure the throttle is closed when you first turn on the key.

(According to the Note above, under Starting Procedure, the 10.1 upgrade tells the software to IGNORE the throttle position on start-up, and the stalling problem goes away. Given this change to the software, the total ban on touching the throttle during start-up is no longer the big issue that it was)

Cold Start Feedback:

• Cold start test. Success! The temperature was exactly 20 degrees F when I went to start the engine. The engine has been cold soaking for eight and a half hours. There are five or six friends standing by to observe. I use the don't touch the throttle method. It cranked pretty strongly for 3 or 4 seconds and fired right up. Cheers from the crowd. I kept my thumb on the starter for another 3 or 4 seconds. But when I removed it the engine died. Crowd is disappointed. Cranking again for another 5 or 6 seconds produced unhappy sounds from the engine but it caught. Keeping the thumb again on the starter for a few seconds after the engine is running. But when I remove my thumb the engine dies again. Crowd is groaning now. Several people reach out to push me but I wave them off. OK cranking now and the engine is not nearly as strong turning over. A good five or six seconds. I remain optimistic. It starts again and again I keep my thumb on the starter button for five seconds. This time when I remove it the engine is running and I can tell its running with élan. Cheers from the crowd now!
  
  Well this is what I think. 20 degrees F is about the lower limit for starting this engine. I took a three hour one hundred mile ride last Thursday, so the battery has a pretty good charge. The battery itself is one year old. For oil there is one quart of BMW 15w-50 synthetic and one point four quarts of BMW 10-40 dino. I'm thinking it might buy a few more degrees lower if you used all Synth 5-50. (but it was not available at oil change) The fact that the engine starts right up and runs strongly with the starter button still engaged, but dies after releasing the starter tells me the cold oil may be inhibiting the engine running. Also, there must be a way of adding heat to the engine to aid starting, even in remote areas. I will be thinking about this. For my 240 Diesel car I use a 700watt hotplate under the oil pan. There is a timer that turns on the hot plate 30 minutes before start time. Using this method you can out your hand on the valve cover after one half hour of heating and it is warm to the touch. I will try to come up with a way of adding heat to the cold engine that does not involve electricity.
• Hard Starting when COLD. We have always kept our bikes in a heated garage. We have never had a hard starting problem with either F650. When we went down to Death Valley Daze we could not get Susi's F started. It would crank, but no fire. We know the drill. No throttle, let the computer run thru the self check and wait for temp light to go out and thumb the button with our hand no where near the throttle. My Dakar will fire right up and settle into a high idle. Susi's would not fire. I eventually pulled the plug and dried it off. It was wet. I torched it and heated it up. I reinstalled the plug and it eventually fired up. It was fine for a few days till we got home with the temps back below freezing. If I leave it outside, it won't start. If I pull it in the garage for a couple of hours, it will fire up. We took it into the Vegas dealer. They found a fault code set for engine temp sensor. They cleared the code and said it should be ok. Of course it was warm enough down there, that it always fired up. I brought it back to N NV where the temps are cold and it will not fire. It is now down at Sierra BMW in Reno. They could not find anything quickly and kept the bike for a week to get it cold enough to cause the problem for them.  Any one else experience a hard starting only when cold?
• You don't suppose that the temperature sensor has (or is in the process of) failed, do you? I had a well-used loaner bike that had the same problem. I had to roll it down a hill to get it going. My suggestion is to replace the sensor and clean all of the wire contacts between the sensor and the computer. Richard #230
• Try that post for info. My hard starting troubles have gotten better, but still aren't completely resolved. The big thing was changing the FI program to the newest "cold" one. I have no idea what that entails but they had to do it several times before it started working right. Now my bike can be a literal ball of ice and it still starts great. Still occasionally dies at stops though. Another thing you might try is to gas it a bit just to get it started and warm, then restart. When I had trouble starting that worked pretty well when I got frustrated.
• My 01 Dakar starts flawlessly down to 13 degrees F (I use synthetic oil) and also twice has refused to idle but run otherwise normally until I turn off the ignition and back on again. Then it runs ok. Sounds to me like you aren't getting spark but how you get spark in an FI system is beyond me. Perhaps applying auxiliary heat to the crankcase with a torch (or electric hotplate) will be a stopgap remedy. echo
• I am going to officially recommend you drain the oil tank and fill it with synthetic oil. While I usually do not believe in fixes that do not actually fix the problem, perhaps this will help. At least it will make the engine crank over easier. What kind of oil do you have in the hard starting bike? Is it thicker than the oil in the other one? bwfox
• My temp sensor was fragged and the bike wouldn't start and it would run poorly. Dealer changed the sensor and everything was back to normal. No problems starting now down to -10 C. BTW, my manual (in Swedish) says that it is OK to use some throttle when starting. Oyvind #1052. Bergen, Norway
• I do not have any experience with low temperatures, I live in the Caribbean however I had hard starting problems with an F650 and I did some Servicing to the Plug caps which were corroded and I changed the plugs. Did you try changing the heat range of the plug to suit winter conditions? Shawn737
• Hello there ,I have the following problem with my 02 Dakar. When outside temperature is over 15*c the bike starts fine .Now with the colder temps up here in Canada ,around the freezing mark, forget it .The bike will not start. It cranks fine but doesn't start. I usually then have to remove the plug, cylinder is flooded ,bring the bike inside heated garage, clean plug etc and then after a while inside the bike will start. Canada GSA
• Your 02 Dakar is most likely under warranty is it not. I would take it in and find out what the problem is. There is no cold start injector on these machines and I don't know what your problem is but odds are there is a fault code stored in the BMS unit that could lead you to the problem. Steve 1130 Or
• I too had the problem with my Dakar. What I am going to tell you goes against everything you have been told. But I have found this to work. At least, for me. When I start my bike in cold weather I slightly open "crack" the throttle. Probably no more that one centimetre rotation. NO MORE! This appears to allow enough air to be drawn in while not feeding too much fuel through the intake. After I get the engine to pop I immediately close the throttle. hubyjob.
• I've noticed in the past some posts regarding the GS/Dakars being hard to start when it's cold. I haven't had any problems till it gets in the low teens and colder. Yesterday and this morning it was -10 F. and the Dakar started with a method I've been using this season. Assuming that you don't have a weak battery, this may work for some, but all bikes are individuals and what works for one may not work for another. If it's cold enough for me to know it won't crank with the standard method I do this. I first do a regular attempt and let it crank for about 5 or 6 seconds, turn off for a minute, crank again and this time a very small crack of the throttle, not a blip, and hold for a second. She usually starts right off. And I know about the taboo of using throttle when starting a fuel injected engine, but screw theory, it works for me. I've been a mechanic for over 15 years ago and have learned that a lot of so called taboos only apply to certain conditions. If I don't do it this way, she won't start unless I top off the battery. Believe me, I've tried every possible method I could think of. We're expecting -15 F tonight, and I'll see if it works at that temp. This doesn't change the fact that the best insurance for starting when extremely cold is to have a fully charged or warm battery, ( if there's no way to pre-heat the engine). I'm sure there will be many questioning the validity of this method, but it works on MY Dakar, and that's all that matters to me. I'm riding to work. About a 45 minute drive down into the valley. I know it sounds stupid, but it's just one of those things you feel you have to do:>). By the way, she wouldn't start this morning. Temp was -16 F but it wasn't for the lack of trying. The battery just didn't have enough to do it at those temps. I guess I'll have to get up earlier to start the generator ( there isn't power where I live) and pre-heat it. Which is really what I should have been doing anyway, just wanted to see if she would. Skip `01Dakar
• I used to put a hot plate (700watts) under my 240D to get it started in temps under 5degrees. I imagine you can use the one to get that Unimog started under your Dakar! echo
• I've found the same thing to work as well. While training the desert with Jimmy Lewis he was surprised that the Dakar sometimes was so ornery to start. He said that he's found that some of these FI bikes, the Dakar in particular, are a bit easier when a bit of pressure is taken off the butterfly valve. The crack the throttle a bit does this. If it works, then do it! davidhpark711
• I found this works at altitude as well - at about 0 degrees Celsius (32 F?) and 4200 meters high in Bolivia the bike started only when I gave it a tiny bit of throttle. y_kiwi
• If these are normal operating temperatures (not a fall overnighter to a mountaintop) I'd be running a REAL synthetic oil (Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, or Amsoil) at the lowest viscosity the BMW manual allows for the expected temperatures (the first number, BEFORE the W), assuming you're not in a location where BMW has banned synthetics. Remember that cold starts are where a huge percentage of your wear occurs. Marty #436-Chicago-97 F650F
• '03 Dakar Cold starting NM. I've taken a few trips to higher altitude (7500 to 8000 feet) the last few weeks. The mornings were cool (<50F) and the bike refused to start. The first weekend: I was following the starting procedure, temp light goes out, no throttle, ... The engine would just crank and crank, and never fire up. It seemed like the engine wasn't getting fuel. So I rolled it down the hill and popped the clutch. Started just fine and ran well. I came home, read the FAQs and learned that a sudden twist of the throttle while the starter is turning the engine will dump some fuel in and get things started. The Second weekend: Again no start on a cold morning. I did the sudden throttle thing and it fired right up. Let it run a few minutes to get warmed up, killed it and restarted just fine. At this point I wanted to try a few experiments. So once back at home, I held the throttle wide open, the hit the starter. Engine fired right up, started revving up and I released the throttle and let it settle back to a idle. I then drove it around the block a few times with no trouble. From reading the faq, I thought it would have died because the computer had the wrong zero position for the throttle. Nothing I could do would reproduce the dying at stoplight symptoms of a bad throttle zero position I read about in the FAQs. I tried various throttle positions during and before starting. So it seems that maybe there is a different version of software that doesn't start so well at colder temps and higher altitudes, but does have the zero position thing fixed. Has anyone else noticed this? bobo
• I was headed for home for Idaho yesterday morning, having spent the weekend in Oregon. It was about 30 degrees when I left. Bike was all loaded just before sunup, and I pushed the starter . . . Of course it wouldn't fire right up, so I gave it about half throttle while cranking. That was too much and I flooded it . . . I know because I could smell the gas in the air. The only cure now is lots of cranking with NO throttle. So I did that and my battery started to get low. So I tried push starting, but the ground was too flat. So then I popped the hood of my Dad's truck and jumped my bike with his battery (but with his engine off lest I get too much juice and fry my electronics). After a few tries the bike started right up. This wasn't my first cold start, but it IS the first time I flooded it. Seems that just a small amount of throttle is all it takes, that and lots of cranks. In hindsight it might be good to keep a battery tender hooked up over-night if you expect freezing temps. I had to peel the tank apart to get to the battery; I think I'll add a set of terminals that are accessible from the outside. I was heading off on a long, remote solo ride, and the bike just wouldn't start that morning. First time ever. Finally, after a full minute of cranking, it started. I then stopped it, and re-started. Worked fine the second time. But I headed off on my ride, fully expecting a long walk back to camp! Once home, I read the FAQ's and realized I was merely experiencing my first cold start (we were out camping; bike is usually in the garage overnight). As suggested in the FAQ, next time I'll give a little twist, get it running, then turn it off to reset the computer. Of course, as you suggest, that may not be needed on our bikes. Scott, ID.
• Has anyone had a problem starting their fuel-injected F650 in cold weather? I was on a trip on the eastern side of the Sierra (Bridgeport, CA) and my F650 CS would not start in the morning after it had been sitting out all night in 25 degree (F.) weather. The engine would crank and crank and crank but not start. It acted like it was starved for fuel. I finally got it started after 3 hours! The motel manager was really friendly and let me move the bike into a heated tool shed so it could warm up. Still the bike would not start. I ending up moving the bike into a sunny area and after another hour or so of sitting in the warm sun (the air temperature was up in the 40's by then at 11:30) the bike finally started. I was a bit unhappy since I had to cut my trip short since I couldn't take the chance of the bike not starting again the next morning. I searched the FAQ but couldn't find an answer to this one. To add insult to injury, an ancient Harley Davidson sitting next to my bike started right up the first try! Best regards. Lynn
• Scroll down a few days and you'll see another California rider who reported problems starting his Dakar at altitude and cold weather almost exactly as you describe. He reported success with bump starting (i.e. roll it down a hill and popping the clutch) I suggest using synthetic oil in cold weather to make starting easier. You can run a heavy positive wire from the positive terminal to the bottom area of the tank to aid in jumping. Yes use the frame. And be sure to insulate the wire real good! Paul

Hard Starts - Problem 1:

Symptoms: The other day I found that my 01 GSA would crank over and fire up, but would quit running once the starter button was released. This happened a few times, but after a while, it started up. When it finally started and ran, it seemed to be loaded up and had to clear out for a second or two. This loading up was probably due to the repeated starting process, and I'll assume was not related to the cause of the starting failure.  Once it started, it continued to start fine, but the oil pressure light would change from bright to dim while running, and after an hour or so of starting and shutting down, the light was working properly. I believe the oil pressure light was not on due to low oil pressure, but due to an electrical gremlin. It seems to me that there is a relay problem, if not a ground problem. Anyone experienced anything like this on their FI'd bike? If so, what was the solution?

Solutions:

• Check the big plug on the ABS Motronics. A few of the 01's had corrosion in the plug. TomO-AR 650GS;1150GS Adventure

Hard Starts - Problem 2:

Symptoms: GS will not start Today I rode my bike to work, then to lunch, but after work I put the key in the ignition, turned the bike on, and the instrument panel turned on like always. However, just like when a light bulb burns out, the system quickly went down and will not start. There is a very faint humming noise and the instrument panel is very dim when I turn the key on (I only noticed this after the sun went down and I was making one last effort to start it before loading it in my pickup). I checked the fuses and they're ok. The way things went from good to bad all-of-the-sudden makes me think it is not a battery problem either. I am not sure if it is related, but my horn quit working about 1 month ago. This bike has 9000 miles and was built in 09-2000.

• Check Battery for loose terminals/corrosion, also check where the earth cable is grounded on the bike.
  
  I suspect you battery has died suddenly from a collapsed (battery) cell. There is a way you can check this VERY carefully, take off the cosmetic plastic so you can see the battery, remove ALL battery cell filler caps. IF you have glasses, yep those things that some of us need to see with :-) They are for protection in this case. Turn on key, hit starter, while looking at water level in battery cells. IF one cell bubbles profusely when battery is under load AND the others don't THEN that cell is a dud. The battery voltage would sag badly under load at the same time. Vibration usually is the cause of cell failure like this.
  
  In doing the "cell bubbles check" be VERY careful. It CAN spray out of the cell under SOME circumstances. Jack, GS, Oz. See the Battery FAQ

• Did you lock the steering. You may have inadvertently locked it in the "park" position, leaving the headlight on and draining your battery. Mike

Hard Starts - Problem 3:

Feedback:

• I had similar problems on last Sunday night. Ended up calling the haulers and having bike taken to the dealer. The tech said he was able to start the bike eventually, but the air sensor (in the snorkel) was giving false readings, reporting way too low temps?, and the bike made a lot of smoke. New sensor will hopefully arrive tomorrow. BTW, if this had been a car they'd have the part in the shop the next day, two days at the most, express delivery. SO WHY DO I HAVE TO WAIT FOR A WEEK OR MORE WHEN I NEED PARTS FOR MY BIKE? I'd be more than willing to pay express freight charges for important parts, but it's not even an available option!  The Air (Pressure) Sensor
  i.e., the small thingamajiggy that sits in your air box, just before the air filter. BTW, if you have a "classic" you don't have one and should probably worry about something else, such as needle jet settings or something, instead. Mine was changed under warranty after the mech found that it was giving false readings, (which is a good reason to have the bike plugged into the MoDiTeC every so often, ) and thus poor performance.  The Air (Pressure) Sensor really seems like a pretty simple part. It's a small piece of resistor wire exposed to the air stream in the intake. A calibrated current is sent through the wire, which heats it up. The air passing over it cools it down. Since the resistance in a wire varies with its temperature it's then fairly simple to deduce the air (Pressure) entering the engine. Of course, this miniscule sensor is ridiculously expensive, but since it's probably made by Bosch (most seem to be, at least for European makes), and there really aren't that many different models, cheaper sources than BMW may be found. Anyways, having developed the same problem on my car, which is a VW TDI turbo diesel engine and thus has even more expensive parts, I found out that malfunction is usually due to dirt accumulating on the wire, which gives false readings. It's apparently pretty easy to clean it (carefully) with carburettor or brake cleaning fluid and compressed air, making it good as new. If the sensor is dirty enough your bike may not even start, BTW. That is when the BMW roadside assistance card becomes a good thing :-). Anyways, doing a little more research on the subject, I realize that there should be absolutely no reason, under normal circumstances, to buy a new (Pressure) sensor instead of just cleaning the old one. There are simply no moving parts in there that can break. Still, your mechanic will probably tell you that it must be replaced instead of using the five minutes it takes to clean it   Oyvind #1052, Bergen, Norway.

• The "altimeter sensor" (air press. sensor) is a Motorola MPXA 4115A sensor. I managed to get mine out of calibration (due to some repair I had to do on my box) and the bike would not run properly at all. Robert (Austria) was kind and experienced enough to get me on the right track in the fault finding. http://www.geocities.com/robertosat haakon#626 (Norway, F650GS).

Hard Starts Feedback

• After hearing it and hearing it and hearing it again, I resisted to deviate from the "BMW-Approved" starting method with my '05 Twin-Spark Dakar. And consistently had to start the bike 2, 3, sometimes more times before it would keep running. No matter the ambient temperature, no matter the engine temperature.
  
  Sadlsor

• I was able to start a GS, when it wouldn't start by pushing the button, by rolling it down a hill in second gear. It started right up. However, if the battery is almost dead and is not producing enough voltage to make the FI computer happy, it may not start. Richard #230
• You can push start it either on flat ground on on a hill - use neutral and upshift to second. If you're with a friend on a bike they can ride and push you with their right leg if they're good and willing to risk a crash if you stall out. You've got to keep a good min voltage/power otherwise you can fry the solenoid by trying to start the bike using the button when it's got too low of a charge. Once running, keep it running and ride it to charge it then put it on a battery tender. davidhpark711
• The computer "knows" the engine is cranking by the crankshaft sensor. It's two wires can be seen coming out the top of the alternator cover. Each time the crank completes 1 revolution, it sends a pulse to the computer. The computer can determine engine RPM by timing the pulses. The computer doesn't know when the starter is engaged; It doesn't need to. When the ignition key is "on", and the cut-off switch is "run", and either 1) transmission in neutral, or 2) sidestand is up, then the computer will wait for pulses from the crank sensor. The computer knows only that the crank is spinning. It doesn't know or care whether it's because of the starter, or a push-start. When computer senses that the RPM has reached a certain value, it turns the fuel pump on, and begins pulsing the FI. During a push start, the ignition key is "on", cut-off switch is "run", and kickstand is "up" (Not just a great idea, it's required!!). The bike is pushed; The clutch is released; the crank rotates; The computer activates FI system; Engine starts. Raymo #1173, Chicago, 2001 F650GSA
• You can do it but shouldn't. You see, catalyst equipped bikes (like cars) should not be push-started. Messes your catalyst (except if you have it removed), maybe you can do it once, maybe twice but then... you'll have something cutting some of your horse power (like a catalyst does) but still not working. NLS
• What utter nonsense you talk sometimes NLS. There's no problem to bump starting a bike or a car with a catalyst provided it starts fairly soon after the engine starts turning. it's the unburnt fuel that harms the catalyst so it would only cause damage it if it didn't start right away. That also applies whether it's being started on the starter and refuses to fire or by any means. Check your facts before you spout off and give people the wrong information. Al from Oregon
• Raymo said "When computer senses that the RPM has reached a certain value, it turns the fuel pump on, and begins pulsing the FI." That's nonsense too. the fuel pump turn on as soon as you turn on the ignition switch, you can hear it for a second or so, it pressurises the system then stops until more pumping is required. Personally I wouldn't use second gear with such a high-compression engine, you're likely to lock the wheel and skid. third gear would be more sense for first attempt. Al from Oregon
• I'm with Al. There is nothing wrong with bump starting a motor with a catalytic converter provided that it either starts and runs or else doesn't start at all. What melts cats is continued running of an over-rich mixture, like when you have a dead spark plug on a multi-cylinder engine. The hot cat, heated by the exhaust gasses of the other cylinder (s) will overheat due to the unburned fuel of the dead cylinder, and then melt. If it doesn't run enough to get hot, it doesn't get hot enough to melt. If the motor catches and runs normally... there is no problem because the unburned fuel will quickly burn off as the cat heats normally. Flash 412 (CO)
• My understanding is that the pump is brought up to pressure when the ignition is turned on, however if the battery voltage is not high enough, the FI computer will not permit the ignition to fire the plug. (I also doubt that it would permit the injectors to operate - if that is the case then push starting the bike would not be a problem as the engine would not be getting any fuel.) Apparently, if the computer has this voltage limit to prevent damage to some of the bike's systems - such as perhaps the starter solenoid. Richard #230
• AL, Regarding my "nonsense" statement": "When computer senses that the RPM has reached a certain value, it turns the fuel pump on, and begins pulsing the FI."
  You replied: "the fuel pump turn on as soon as you turn on the ignition switch, you can hear it for a second or so, it pressurises the system then stops until more pumping is required. " When do you feel that "more pumping is required"? It's when "the RPM has reached a certain value". Are you saying that the FI is pulsing BEFORE the engine cranks??? Wouldn't that fill up the cylinder with fuel? Now that's just nonsense, Al. Raymo #1173, Chicago, 2001 F650GSA
• From the little bit of information I've gleaned from my *Technical* contacts in BMW UK, when the ignition is first switched on the pump which pressurises the FI system turns on for a short time then turns off, until the system requires more pressure, i.e. when the engine starts and requires more fuel. The pump then runs continually and excess pressure is bled off through a relief valve back into the tank. Like Al says, you can actually hear it when you first switch on. The injector doesn't open at this point until the appropriate point in crank-shaft rotation and it only requires a minimum of voltage to operate it, so a nearly flat battery would be ok to operate the injector and pump, but not have enough power to crank the engine. As the starter motor uses a huge amount of power to crank the engine, the bit that's left in the battery *should* be enough to give a spark, power the pump and operate the injector as that's "small fry" by comparison. So bump starting with a nearly flat battery would be ok. I'm also inclined to agree with Al in using third gear to do a bump-start, snatching the clutch out to engage the motor - firing - then pulling the clutch in again smartish if it fires, as several times previously when I stalled in second gear the back wheel locked up as I tried to restart it, while I was still moving. (This was previous to v10.1 upgrade). Trevor #999
• In response to the original question, I had said that the conditions for engine start are met during a push start. Crank rotation is the last required step. This triggers the fuel pump and fuel injector. The following pseudo-code illustrates the general start-up sequence of an engine computer.
  

  # Ignition key on, and cranking conditions met
  WAIT UNTIL {ignition_switch="on" & cutoff_switch="run" & (neutral_switch="on" | sidestand_switch="up"}
  
  # Pressurize fuel lines
  Start timer (about 1.5 seconds); Turn on fuel pump motor.
  
  # Wait for engine crank; Turn off fuel pump if no crank in 1.5 seconds.
  WHILE Crankshaft_RPM < limit (about hundred RPM)
      IF {timer expired}
          Turn off fuel pump motor
  END WHILE
  
  # Run cranking algorithms
  Turn on fuel pump motor
  Pulse FI
  Use spark table & mixture table appropriate during engine crank
  
  # Run engine cold-start algorithms
  Use spark table & mixture table appropriate for engine running cold (open loop)
  
  # Monitor O2 sensor warm-up, coolant temp
  Change spark table & ignition table as engine warms.
  

  
  No, I did not disassemble the F650 computer code. Given the inputs and outputs of the F650GS's engine computer, any similar engine control system would have to follow the general algorithms above. Raymo #1173, Chicago, 2001 F650GSA

Q. Cannot start in gear. 2001 F650GS (Australian Spec).

Reading the manual (a good thing) and the forum replies (better) I understand I CAN start the bike in gear - sometimes a good thing when stalled and moving. Trouble is the bike will not start in gear.
- seated, ignition on, kill ok, stand-up, FIRST, CLUTCH-IN, starter - NOTHING
- seated, ignition on, kill ok, stand-up, NEUTRAL, CLUTCH-IN, starter - OK

My guess - electrical: reading the GS wiring diagrams - there seems to be clutch switch much like the side-stand switch - could this be it, and where is it, and how might I test it?

Solution:

Indeed it is the micro switch inside the clutch lever housing - at the end of the second smaller lead from the clutch handle which does not contain the clutch cable. After my original post, and reading the electrical docs, looked for the switch and found it, engaging the clutch and pulling switch plunger out with a pair of tweezers, the bike started quite happily. Unfortunately, too much gymnastics in that manoeuvre to do it while moving. Looks like the spring loading in the switch has broken. Minor 2 dollar part.... major fiddle to get, handgrips protectors off, replace switch, hand protectors back on. Richard Sydney, Oz

Note: The bike will start in gear, unless you have the sidestand out. The sidestand has a switch, wired to the starter (and kill switch) that prevents the engine from starting. Also, if you put the sidestand out while the engine is running in gear, it would kill the engine. Sojourner (Toronto)

Feedback:

• I can't start the bike in gear. In the past couple of days, I have notice that I can't start the bike if it is in gear. (With the clutch lever pulled in of course) I can start the bike in neutral though. Only thing I can figure is that there is a problem with the sensor. I tried adjusting the clutch cable but to no avail. There is another cable that goes into the shifter lever. I am wondering if that is the sensor. Bryan #1157, 02' GS, Lawrenceville, GA.
• That's the one. The end should pop out slightly when the clutch lever is pulled in. Fiddle with it with fine pointed pliers or similar so that it moves in and out easily. It may require dismantling from the lever. I put a *tiny* amount of WD40 on mine. Trevor, Bristol, UK, 01 F650GS, CG member #999
• Had exactly the same problem - I verified that it was the micro switch/spring by pulling in the clutch lever, pulled out the tiny piston with a pair of tweezers and hit the starter (this requires at least three hands:-). Got it replaced next service after about 3 months of riding. I rarely start the bike in gear - maybe a bad habit borne of necessity. I do notice that starting it in gear - the bike does lurch forward a little. MrA...Richard 01GS, Sydney, Oz
• I agree with your diagnosis, and would expect to find the switch in the left clutch lever mounting area (left handgrip area). I would also guess that it'll turn out to be a microswitch like the one used on the Classic's brake lever (this switch fails frequently). That said, I only have a Classic, so you should get confirmation of my speculation from someone that actually owns one! Ooops...troubleshooting: assuming it is like the Classic's brake switch, it is a simple plunger microswitch. In some cases, the Classic's switch would slip out of adjustment (the switch position can be adjusted a bit, see the Brake light switch FAQ). This might be a quick/easy/cheap fix (listen for the microswitch to "click" as you pull the clutch lever in and out. If you don't hear it, the switch position may need to be adjusted. The "click" can work and the switch still not work. One position is closed, one position is open. In your case, you'll likely find that in BOTH positions (clutch in and out) it is open (my guess) or closed. The switch will probably have two wires going into it, hard soldered and covered with heat shrink tubing. Put a meter across the two wires (you'll have to get through the insulation somehow) and measure the switch resistance with clutch in and out (correctly, the switch should be disconnected from the circuit before testing, but you can probably get by without). If the switch looks to be bad, you should disconnect one lead, then retest it. If it tests OK, probably broken or fused wires in the wiring harness to the switch. Marty #436-Chicago-97 F650F

Problem 1: Dakar wont idle (sometimes). Has anyone had this experience and what did you (or the dealer) do about it? Engine starts and runs normally. No surging. A month ago during a ride, it would not idle. You could keep the engine running at 2-3k rpm at a light, but if you took your hand off the throttle, it died. I arrived at my destination shut the engine off and went about my business. On the way home I suddenly realized, hey its running ok. Runs, starts normally for a month/500 miles. Last weekend same thing happens. Normal start-up, normal running for 15 minutes, then it wont idle. Stalls at a light every time. I went home, put the bike in the shed. Came out ten minutes later and it started up and ran normally. Took it for a two hour ride. Perfectly normal operation. I do find it unnecessary however to even touch the throttle during starting, even in temps of 15 degrees f. (which is what is was yesterday) It starts like a shot, always. I checked the tightness of the battery terminals when I recently changed the oil. That was in between failures and they were tight. Definitely tightening the battery terminals should be part of maintenance whenever the faux tank comes off. I was thinking about something Trev had said about the computer resetting itself. This problem, which was pretty consistent when it happened (engine will not idle at all and stalls when throttle is closed) went away after the ignition was turned off and then turned back on again. Perhaps the computer was readjusting itself to whatever the problem was. Also I was thinking this perhaps could be icing. The first time this happened it was very humid and this weekend it was very cold. Shutting off the engine with ice in the works would allow the heat to reach where the ice formed and melt it. (the cooling happens only with air flow) But in aircraft icing is not much of a problem with fuel injected engines and generally affects only carburetted ones. No I have no aftermarket lights on the bike. Just the BMW power outlet which I plug my electric vest in and on long trips the air compressor. I've never had a problem with a low battery and I the bike just started fine this morning at 13 degrees F. I did have a little problem with surging the first winter I had the bike and I make it a practice to add a little gas treatment every couple of tankfuls. Haven't had any surging since then. But the bike has only 3k miles on it and I doubt very much there is anything there for injector cleaner to clean. That is a remedy that is common to try out, but IMHE it does not work. I just counselled a friend with an expensive car who was having trouble NOT to allow the dealer to add that stuff to his gas to correct his problem. Well, the friend did it anyway, paid $$$ to have it done and still had the problem. He eventually took the car to another dealer who found a sensor problem and fixed the car. I'm thinking injector cleaner isn't going to help my problem either. But I wish it could! Echo.

• The only thing that I can think of that *might* cause the problem on those few occasions when it does happen, is that you maybe turn the throttle slightly before the engine starts cranking when you start it. So the electronics think that part-open position is the *closed-throttle* position, so that when you let the throttle go right back to the rest position the engine stops 'cos it's getting no fuel. Just a wild guess. Trevor 999 UK 01 GS
• The symptoms happened to my 02 a few times. Then it cleared up like yours. I have no explanation either. It does not bother me, cause it ain't broke. Steve#1059 in MA
• Check your battery cables for looseness. I had similar symptoms once because of a loose positive cable. Bonnie #1158
• Icing can happen in normally carburetted engines, because of the cold humid airflow over a jet which could be even colder, if it hasn't picked up some heat from the engine. With fuel-injection that would be very unlikely to happen, because the fuel is under a great deal of pressure, so you'd need an enormous *weld* of ice over the fuel atomiser jet to prevent the fuel being injected into the intake. I think you can rule out Icing. Trevor 999 UK 01 GS
• Perhaps a sensor on the bike is starting to fail and is giving the computer an occasional false reading. Richard #230
• I have the same thing happening on my 2002 GS. It seams that if I simply unplug the 20A fuse and replace it all is fine (for a while). Turning the ignition off for a short period and then back on also seems to "clear" the problem and the bike will restart. After this event occurs see if your temperature light stays off. If it does, your computer (for some reason) is preventing the engine from starting. I have not figured out the cause. I have checked all cables as well as the connections in (and behind) the fuse box. David San Rafael, CA '02 650GSLA
• I have the same thing happen on my '02 GS but I figured it was because it was so cold. Once I get out on the road for about 5 mins, I have no problem . Bobcatou#1157
• Solution: BMW called today and they hooked up the MoDiTec to the bike. No error codes. They have no idea what caused the problem. Oh well that's what I expected. The good news is that although it happened twice it went away after turning the ignition off and on again. (it happened in October about 500 miles ago and again a couple of weeks ago) The bad news is its some kind of intermittent problem which will no doubt be difficult to diagnose. And which will no doubt rear its ugly head again and maybe worse next time. This combined with the fact that at least my dealer apparently does not stock parts for this bike doesn't exactly give me confidence to ride it long distance. I picked up my bike from the dealer on Saturday and went for a 100 mile ride today. The bike started and ran perfectly normally. Initially, the dealer told me over the phone that no trouble was found with the bike and that the computer had no errors in it. But when I picked up the bike and read the repair invoice, they reprogrammed the computer because there was a fault in the program. I asked about this but just got shrugged shoulders. I asked to speak to the mechanic but he wasn't there. The bike runs normally now, no surging and perfect carburetion. But I'm sure this problem will resurface and Ill report when it does. For now, the dealer says when it makes the problem again, bring it in. Echo

Problem 2: All of a sudden my 2001 650GSA won't remain idel. It'll remain idle normally for any amount of time, as long as you don't ride it. But as soon as you start riding it the problem happens. I took it to my BMW dealership (Wild West in Katy, TX). After putting the bike to the computer, they have replaced the idle actuator and the speed sensor. Yet the problem remains. They have put a support call into BMW of NA. Any ideas what the proeblem may be??

Another update. Spoke with WW service this week, they confirmed they have changed spark plug, unpluged all sensors, rest and remap the FI (several times) and the problem is not gone. The bike can idle for hrs, but will not do it while driving it. They are awaiting the tech rep from BMW NA to come in and check the bike. Totally cluless... fahz #1221

• When the problem comes in suddenly changing the [spark] plug might not help - especially if you are already running [an alternative plug]. And the DPR 8EIX-9 is too hot for my 00 GS - the Denso IX 27 chops just right. The one for the Aprilla Peagaso. One bad tank of gas can give you the problem - a good injection cleaner, fresh gas and a good brisk run can make a big difference. Sometimes. And dont overlook the obvious like a slightly frayed throttle cable at the carb end which can alter the closed position of the throttle and confuse the BMS. beemerboff
• Also check the voltage... I seem to recall something about the VR on the carb models where it was only after a few minutes that the problems would be displayed.
  
  Only other thing I could think of is a temperature or altitude sensor. The altitude sensor is in the BMS-C itself if I recall correctly, so try plugging another BMS-C into your bike. Not sure about the temperature sensor - but this should exhibit problems that you are not seeing.
  
  One thing I did think is the "spring" on the throttle body (the other end of the throttle cable) could have died. As a result, when the bike has been off for a few minutes, the spring is JUST strong enough to reset to the correct position. However when riding, it may not be strong enough to fully close the throttle. Also check the throttle cable is not too tight - I made a small adjustment to mine once, and every time the steering was at full lock to the left, the RPM would increase - NOT an idle problem, but it seemed like it was.
• Solution: Well I got my bike back from WW and it is running great. They had to get assistance from a tech at BMW of NA, who recommended several tweaks to the FI mapping. These tweaks made the trick. Details will have to be asked directly to WW Service Mgr. Of course this was done after they changed the idle control unit, gas filter, spark plug, speed sensor and several hrs of labor. In all fairness, the BMW electronic diagnostic tool apparently did not render the correct diagnostic for them. Hope this helps. Thanks everyone for your postings!!.

Problem: I have the same thing happening on my 2002 GS. It seams that if I simply unplug the 20A fuse and replace it all is fine (for a while). Turning the ignition off for a short period and then back on also seems to "clear" the problem and the bike will restart. After this event occurs see if your temperature light stays off. If it does, your computer (for some reason) is preventing the engine from starting. I have not figured out the cause. I have checked all cables as well as the connections in (and behind) the fuse box. David San Rafael, CA '02 650GSLA

Solution: Mine turned out to be a clogged fuel sump screen. Not sure how the tank got contaminated with 626 miles on it, but at least they found the cause (of course it was a fuel related problem and thus billable). The dealer told me that if you turn the key off (among other things) it forces the fuel pump to run again which forced fuel through the somewhat-clogged screen. This allowed enough fuel to pass the screen and allow the engine to restart and run until it clogged enough again to stall the engine. To make matters worse, the "clog" also caused the low-fuel indicator to malfunction. This caused the low-fuel light to not work and I could have run out of gas. So… if your problem is intermittent, check for a fuel related problem. Try draining your fuel tank (ensure the low fuel light comes on as you do this), blow out the tank using an air hose (ensure no debris is in the tank), and refill your tank while watching for the low fuel light go out after you have put about .75 US Gal back in the tank. Continue filling. Lesson learned. David San Rafael, CA '02 650GSLA