Compiled & edited by Spakur #1117
edited for spelling & grammar, not for content by Kristian #562
Please read the Disclaimer before
attempting any work in this FAQ.
Updated 22 Feb 2003 by Spakur
Website http://www.scottoiler.com/
This is a complementary FAQ to the Installation instructions that are delivered with the Scottoiler. If you have lost the OEM instructions you can download them from Scottoiler. The Part numbers mentioned below refer to the picture on the last page in the Scottoiler instructions. This is not a step by step tutorial, but a collection of informative posts from the Chain Gang Messageboard. For some information on the installation of the Scottoiler for the GS/Dakar, refer GS Scottoiler.
This refers to the classic F650, if you got a F650GS you should check out the installation instructions for the F650 GS Scottoiler FAQ for the vacuum connection. Comments & Opinions on the Scottoiler are in THIS FAQ however.
This is what Scottoiler originally suggested as the connection point. It's not necessarily the best, or the easiest, and it's for sure not the only way to go. Remove the gas tank. Looking down on the carbs from above, you will see two outlet stubs on the inboard side of the left carb, one of which has a black plastic cap covering it (the other is blanked off, I think). Remove the black plastic cap and attach the Lshaped connector from the Scottoiler kit. In order to make the connector pliable enough to go on the stub, you will need to soften it by immersing it in boiling water. (As an aside, I will point out that boiling water is HOT, and you should use some sort of implement other than your fingers to remove the connector from the HOT water. I will leave it to your imagination as to why I have such vivid and painful memories of this procedure.) It also helps if you have very small hands to manipulate the connector in the space between the carbs. Like I said, there are other ways to go, but this one worked for me. (James #523)
For the actual vacuum I finally found reference to where to feed it from the rubber capped outlet on the left carb (engine side). Do not bother removing the fuel tank to fit the Scottoiler vacuum elbow (#4), just warm it up, stretch it with a Phillips screwdriver, warm it again, then push it on using a blunt rod (ideal is the supplied tool kit plug remover lever). Just fiddle around, push it on, then wayyougo. Thought this may save someone removing half the bike to do a simple job...Forgot to mention you only need to remove the seat, and the right hand side engine fairing to do the job the rest is up to fiddling around with fingers and push rod. (Wazza (kiwi in London)
If it's a US bike, if you look at the right side of the right carb, hidden by the frame, you should find two vacuum ports (brass tubes) which may have hoses or caps on them, depending on if your emissions canister has been removed. You want to use the front port it has more vacuum than the rear port. (Todd #389)
I mounted mine under the swingarm facing backwards. I only used adhesive tape to fasten it hopefully it won't fall off. (Spakur #1117)
I took off the lower chain guard plastic, drilled three small holes, and ziptied the feeder in place did not use the supplied mounts at all. To fine tune the position, heat the feeder (very, very! gently) with a lighter and bend. Seems very stable, and in the right place with no mucking around (could well be blind luck!). :)(Wazza)
I found mounting the Scottoiler tank itself to be a breeze. Mounting the nozzle and hose however was not as easy. Used the glue and got it on, but I adjusted the nozzle 20 times during the first week to make it drip at the chain and not the ground(Thomas849)
If you have removed the snorkel, then you can bolt the Scottoiler to the black guard which runs below the water reservoir. Simply replace the mounting bolt and clip with the Scottoiler mounting bracket #11 (bolt on clamp set). This places the oiler on an angle just below the water reservoir' neatly out of sight. (Wazza)
I mounted mine where the charcoal cannister would go if I still had one. (Richard 424)
I mounted mine where the charcoal cannister was. then I got an Ohlins with the reservoir that requires the same location. so I remounted it on the black plastic piece underneath the coolant reservoir. I drilled a small hole about an inch behind screw that holds the plastic piece on, mounted the reservoir, and looped the line back a hair to enter the hole where the coolant is viewed. from there it's routed down by the brake pedal and to the swing arm. this is a simple installation and more obvious once you remove the painted side panel. The installation looks cleaner now than it did when it was mounted where the cannister used to be. the reservoir pushes right up to the plastic, so it's really tucked in, yet refill is still very convenient. (mark #403)
'97 Strada. Mounted mine vertically on the right rear Jesse bag rack near where the charcoal canister was. Easy to see the level and to refill. Ran the oil line down the bag rack lower leg to the swing arm and back to the sprocket, hiding the drip tube behind the lower chain guard. Mark's solution sounds good too. Fitting it is half the fun...take your time and don't cut anything or attach anything permanently until you love it. You will do fine, dude. (Dave #093 )
Mine is fitted on the frame downtube on the right hand side i.e. inside your right leg next to the carburettors just behind the grey front/side panel. Alan
We've mounted it in the 'sandwich box'! An exceptionally stealthy place and the only thing that particular compartment is useful for! Sue # 704
I mounted the RMV/HCR on the luggage rack on the right side of the bike. The tubes were run along the right side of the bike under the side fairing to the carb and the swingarm. Take care when mounting the tubes so that they don't get to close to the exhaust pipe. I used tiewraps for the mounting of the HCR/RMV and the tubes. (Spakur #1117)
I changed the location of the RMV/HCR to the license plate, because I had to take off my luggage rack. Looks better, but not as easy to see how much oil there's left in the HCR. (Spakur#1117)
The touring model (extra tank) combines both pieces into a unit that mounts on the rear fender and resides about where the licence plate is...although the unit is designed for Euro-sized plates which makes mounting it and the license plate a challenge (the tank assembly also doubles as the new license plate mounting location). (Marty #436)
I mounted it behind the license plate. (Leo #699)
I just put my Scottoiler on. I was a little dismayed by the gargantuan size of the touring kit, and my license plate's inability to cover it. What I did was to mount the reservoir on the inside of the rear mudguard and then I remote-mounted the RMV above the wheel/under the luggage rack. You can't see it at all, and it works great. Will K #1235
I have the touring kit also. Right now I just have the RMV mounted (in place of the snorkel). I have cut the extra's off the touring reservoir and am planning to mount it under the license plate but recessed in the fender. I think maybe some truck bed liner paint to protect it from rear wheel debris. I did 1800 mile tour with just the RMV and only topped it yp once, so I am not sure if I will mount the touring reservoir. XtreemLEE#1188
Possible, but no comments on the Messageboard as yet.
The recommended settings for the Scottoiler is 12 (drops/minutes) if the weather is good higher settings if there is high levels of dust, sand, salt or heavy rain.
Just turn up the Scottoiler when off road and it will stay as clean as when you set off. uses a little more oil though. (J@mes NZ #848)
I have the Touring model set about 4 to 6. In two years and 20000 miles it has used about 3/4 of the reservoir. The chain is adequately oiled. (Leo #699)
I've put on 400 miles since installing a Scottoiler on my F650GS. But, with a setting (67) that keeps the chain oiled, and my chainguard well oiled, I only used half of the amount expected. I thought that I would use 500cc per 500 miles. (Northwet #1101)
I have mine set at 34 but sure it depends on where you have placed it. It is a gravity flow system. (haakon #626(NorwayF650GS))
I don't know what I have it set on. I think usually it's set at about 25%, but max when riding in the dirt (seems to keep the chain cleaner). I can get WAY more than the 500 miles they said I'd get. probably more like 1000.(mark #403)
I think there's something wrong with mine 'cause if I turn it to more than 1,5 it runs empty in 15 minutes (not quite), but I generally keep it on 1. Perhaps I'm not oiling enough, it just seemed to oil an awful lot when I set it to 5... Have to fill the standard model about every 600 kms or so when it's on 1.(Thomas849)
So the message is, don't worry about the numerical setting. Chose a setting that will give you at least 1 drop per min, and no more than 2. (Dick #420 )
Problem: Help! I had
to disconnect the plastic line that runs from the oil tank to the drip point at
the chain. I've ran the bike, and the oil is not moving through the line. What
do I need to do?
by Paul, Thomas849,
Richard 424, r1speedyrider, James #523
Let it run for an half hour or so, Perhaps flow will resume.
Perhaps you kinked the line either disconnecting it or reconnecting it. Check for kinks. Check for blockage of some sort.
Oil IS in the tank, right?
Perhaps you have disturbed the vacuum connection and the tank isn't getting vacuum to operate the valve.
Make sure the vacuum hose is in place on the left carb (sitting on bike) and that the tank isn't closed (Goes from 010 where 0 is closed and 10 is wide open (I run mine at about 2 ))
Maybe the oil delivery line needs to be primed? (read the instructions that came with the kit) or turn the flow adjuster to max flow, go for a short ride and then check.
Sounds like you've got an air bubble in your oil line after you reconnected your oil pipe. Try priming the line all the way through to get rid off the air or disconnect the oil piping again and blow all the oil out (save it back into your Scottoil bottle) and then prime it as per instructions, that way you know you've got no air in the pipe when the oil comes out the end of the oil line.
Unless you've removed the evaporative canister from your USA model, both vacuum ports on the right carb are being used (one goes to the airbox and the other to the canister). You could splice into one of those lines, I guess, but I don't know if the level of vacuum would still be sufficient. Using the left carb avoids any question or problem.
Problem: I had to disconnect the tubing and lost my prime. Probably a REAL
DUMB question, but how do you prime the system? [I can't find my
"manual."] Thanks for any help... :?)
by Trevor #999, Andy Leeds #982
You open the flow valve to its maximum, put the end of the replenisher bottle into the filler tube of the Scottoiler and squeeze long and hard until the oil drips appear at the end of the drip tube.
Then set the flow valve back to it's original setting.
It can be done just by revving the engine, but it takes for ever. The squeeze bottle is way easier.
According to the Factory Rep I talked to in Redmond last year, the only difference between Scott Oil and Automatic Transmission fluid is that they put in a few additives. But his comment was, the additive package is so limited you can just go ahead and use ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). (Dick #420 )
If you can't get Scottoil, a good alternative is chainsaw oil for the cutting chain, summer grade. (Werner #547)
My brother Barry (425) and I both have Scottoilers and they work great. Chain life is much more than doubled, and you don't have to mess with Oiling it (which I usually forget to do). (Dick #420)
I had one fitted to my F650 (1994) from new and covered 19,000 miles in just over two years. I only needed to adjust the chain 3 times during that period!! The next owner of the bike did another 13,000 miles on it, still needing very little adjustment, then I lost track of the bike. I'm awaiting delivery of a new F650GS and the first modification I'll make is installing a touring pack Scottoiler. (Reggie Lancashire England )
The touring variant is not as trouble free as the normal one . Mine is three years old and is now only able to pull oil over from the big reservoir after about 15 minutes at high rpm. If you set the flow too low from the normal reservoir it doesn't refill in town. Set it too high and you get oil on the back wheel. Not a big problem if you keep an eye on the small unit, but it can be annoying. Priming the touring reservoir is a pain too. (Andy Leeds UK #982 )
Be aware that if you go with the touring tank option, it mounts about where the rear licence plate goes (rear fender), but is designed to handle a Eurosized license plate. You're on your own regarding an adapter to fit a US license plate (not in the kit), and will also require 3 new holes in the rear fender to mount the touring tank kit (squeamish about drilling new holes in your expensive BMW?). If you don't have Jesse bags (with the integral cross brace that supports the rear fender) you may want to ponder whether the rear fender will support the extra weight of approximately 400 ml of chain oil plus the kit (guessing 23 pounds), especially if you ride in the rough stuff. I just mounted mine, and suggest Mr. Ed's as Don is VERY good about answering questions (which you will undoubtedly have, as the manual is written in the King's English and no specifics on F650 mounting are included). (Marty #436)
Scottoiler has just introduced a split outlet nozzle to lube both sides of the sprocket. Optional, not in the kit. (Marty #436)
I've been running a Scottoiler for about 10,000 kms now. Even if the chain life is the same, The simple fact that you don't need to get the oil out after a days ride will make it worth the investment for me. (James NZ #848)
I have used Scottoilers before and was satisfied with their performance. Not sure it made the chain last any longer because I didn't have the bikes for more than about 10k miles in one case and 14k miles in another. But $135 for the Scottoiler is too much. It should cost $50 tops. Actually what would make the chain last longer is to have it enclosed. Or switch to a belt drive which would last even longer. But I've never seen a belt-driven off-road motorcycle. (Paul in NJ 01 Dakar)
Had mine for about 1 1/2 yr and 27,000 mi. works great and I use ATF which keeps the chain clean as well. (JAMES)
I have had a Scottoiler since I bought the bike (new) in 2000. It now has 17,000 miles and my mechanic says the chain and sprockets still look fine. However, I do plan to change it (and both sprockets) next month, just to be on the safe side. (Thumpr in Maryland)
13K on DID520vm, new OEM sprockets, and Scottoiler, changed to 15t front about 1K miles ago and noticed slight wear on the front OEM with ~12K miles on it. chain still seems to be in excellent shape. I have not needed to adjust it (I do take the rear wheel off now and then for various reasons, and obviously the chain gets adjusted then.) my OEM chain lasted 10K miles without the Scottoiler and maintenance that would probably be considered fair, at best. (Mark #403)
Don installed a Scottoiler on my 97 f650 shortly after it was purchased new. I'm pushing 24K miles and the chain is due to be changed this winter. The 650 is my adventure bike, so it's goes on more dirt and gravel roads than my Roadster or Ducati. Not only did it increase the life of the chain, but thru all that dirt and dust it stayed clean and perfectly lubed, with no greasy cans of chain lube in my tank bag! Definitely a good investment!. (Deb #301)
Benka's Scottoiler is realworld proven, and she gets 45,000 km out of a chain. That's 28000 miles, in the boonies. Fantastic product. (Elroy #825)
2000 Classic F with 20000 miles. Original chain still in great shape. I installed a Scottoiler shortly after I bought the bike new. (Leo #699)
I think this is the best accessory anyone can purchase for a chain driven bike! I have been riding shaft drive m/c for the last 30 yrs. Last year I bought a 99 Classic and last month I traded it for a 02 F650 GSL. The bike is great, except the chain is a pita. So, I bought a Scottoiler. I'm not into clean, and I realize a clean bike and a well lubricated chain CANNOT coexist! Have 4.5k on it in a month and I only tightened the chain once. How's that, guys? It is money well spent! FYI, I have been using 50% transmission fluid and 50 % 80/90 gear oil in the reservoir. It works well ! When it gets colder, I'll use 100% tranny fluid. Just wanted to share this titbit of info. Steve#1059
I have an '01 F650GS and installed one about five months ago. Look in the FAQ for the F650GS Scottoiler pics and installation instructions. I drilled per the instructions through the rubber neck below the fuel injection unit. The rubber neck is flexible enough to bend it in to allow easy drilling. I have mine set about to about 4 on the adjustment which gives me a drip about every 40 seconds, plenty to keep the chain oiled and not that much on the rear wheel. The chain hasn't been adjusted in 5,200 miles, since the 600 mile service (at 1000 mi), and I checked it today. Had to push hard to get over an inch of slack with the bike on the center stand. You'll be happy you put one on. I have a Scottoiler on my '01 GSA and just went over 6,200 miles and am doing the 6K service. The chain hasn't been adjusted since the 600 mile service (performed at 1,000 miles per the dealer request) and the slack is within the specs. I'm finding that the oil in the reservoir at 2 drips per minute is lasting a lot longer than the specs said it would. Northwet #1101.
I’ve had a Scottoiler on my ’99 Classic now for about 1,200 miles. I used the front vacuum line on the right carburettor to provide vacuum for the unit, and have the Scottoiler adjusted to give about two drops per minute onto the chain (per Scottoiler recommendation). I’ve noticed two things: 1. The chain stays clean and well lubricated, as advertised. 2. However, there is always some oil flung off the chain no matter how I adjust the Scottoiler – especially around the front sprocket cover, the centerstand, the skid plate, and of course the plastic chain guard and rear wheel rim. It’s messier than I thought it would be, to the point where the bike often leaves a drip or two of oil where I park it. I love not lubing the chain by hand every few hundred miles, but the price of this convenience seems to be wiping stray oil off the bike almost as often. My vacuum lines are routed correctly, now they didn't come that way. The Scottoiler is plugged into the front vacuum line (the higher vacuum one) that runs into the air box. Bob#550
Yup, same thing. I find the rear wheel and rear of the bike cleans up easily with regular car wash soap. Closer to the counter sprocket and centerstand gets gunked up, but it's pretty much out of sight (and out of mind). did you tap into the line between the front carb and air injection valve? Or is your rear carb line routed (incorrectly) to the air box? Mark #403
I get a fair amount of gunk around the center stand, etc. I just blast it off w/ a hose when I wash the bike. Minimal fling off at the rear end, however. Tboy #456
I get fling off also. Depending on the type of riding I'm doing, the rear wheel stays relatively clean looking for several hundred miles. If I ride in the rain or dusty roads it gets dirty fast. I had been cleaning it with regular soap and water, but last Sunday I cleaned it with S100 wheel cleaner. I had about1000 miles of dirt and grime on the wheel. I sprayed the S100 on, let it sit about five minutes and sprayed it off really well. It looked great and I didn't have to do any scrubbing. By the way I put the Scottoiler on when the bike was brand new 2000 Classic and now have 24000 miles on the original chain. The chain and the sprockets still look good. Leo #699
More oil and less rust sort of fine for me as long as I do not get it on my rear tire. Yes I have it all over but the chain is also always lubricated. Haakon #626(NorwayF650GS)
I also have Scott Oiler and it works great. I would slow the drip rate to 1 every 4050 seconds, that is still enough and it will slow the fling. Also, when I talked to the Scottoiler Factory Rep, he said you can use ATF (automotive Automatic Transmission Fluid) he said that's what Scott packages, but they mix in a little moly or graphite not really important. Dick #420
The Scottoiler itself works just fine. I don't mind the gunk on the wheel, I'm not a clean bike freak by any means, function before looks. The touring reservoir has given me a bit of hassle. Its a pain to fill and if you overfill it or let it empty it stops the rest of the system working. The vacuum required for the Scottoiler is pretty low. Most petrol engines will produce enough vacuum at the inlet to work. If they eventually go to direct injection, you'd have to go to the electric type oiler. Andy Leeds UK #982
If you have the add on "touring tank" with the clear plastic sight window, take care to NOT over pressurize the tank and blow out the window. Marty #436
Scottoiler Dual Injector: I have just the old fashioned single injector where did you get the dual version.? BTW, I've not noticed any problems with the oil getting to all areas of my chain, even though it drips on just the one side. Bob#550 (Olympia WA)
I noticed that with the single injector, the o-rings on the non-injected side weren't as shiny and happy looking as the ones on the injected side. Paul #1118
I've had the touring set up for about 15000 miles and it is now getting unreliable. If you want to make it last, use silicone sealer or similar on all the push pipe fittings, especially where the touring kit feeds into the black rubber block on the side of the main reservoir. If you loose the seal, the thing stops working until you prime it again. This is a messy PITA. Andy Leeds UK #982
I use a Scottoiler and I check the chain quite often, since it is so easy with the Scottoiler. The Scottoiler can though be a bit of a hassle to make it drip on the chain and not outside of the chain (this needs to be checked on a regular basis). I have also noticed that one needs to crank it up or down depending on rain, dust and temperature. (Spakur #1117)
I can only back up what Spakur says, I have a Scottoiler on my 1997 F650, I have cried off before due to (I thought) the mess it would make. BUT I cannot sing its praises more It is totally controllable, doesn't make a mess when on lower settings what it does do wipes off really easy. The chain & sprockets have done 17,000 miles and don't even need adjustment , no signs of wear yet BRILLIANT I have a Honda VFR as well and I am lucky if I get 17,000 in total with that, and Single thumpers normally chew chains up. Hope that helps (Grayratg)
I put a Scottoiler on when my bike was new and now have more 27, 000 miles on the original chain. I should easily get way over 30000 miles on the chain and sprockets. (Leo #699)
I had my Scottoiler fitted about 6 weeks ago and since then it's started getting quite cold here. I've noticed that the chain isn't as lubricated as it should be (well, that's the idea, isn't it). So I adjusted the things from 2 (the dealer's setting) to 3, then 4, then 5 and now 6. Haven't seen much difference. Have checked what Scottoiler's fitting instructions say, but I have the suspicion that it's just too cold for the oil to flow? I'm using the 0-20 degrees Celsius oil, by the way. Any experiences that may help me? Martin
I would suggest that you set the metering valve to prime and them force oil into the system till you see it drip out onto the chain and then the ground. Now you know there is no blockage in the delivery tube. Next, check you vacuum connection: if you have a leak, it will not work. If all is well on the vacuum side, just use thinner oil, like ATF or similar. As the ambient temperature drops, the viscosity of the oil thickens. Steve#1059
I had the same experience. I have it set on prime now, which seems to work all right. When I have it set on prime it drips about 2 drips a minute. I use ATF for the moment, but I found the problem to be similar with the OEM oil. My feeling is that the outside temperature makes a big difference. Spakur #1117
I use the Scottoiler. It works really well, but adjusting it so that your chain is lubed, and the rest of your bike/self is not, takes a little bit of doing! Since my rear wheelcoveringbitofplastic was lost ages ago I found that a bigger chainguard saves a lot of mess. James #848
I’ve had Scottoilers and they work well. But now I find I don’t mind lubing the chain every 300-600 miles by hand and I can also clean it good with WD-40 before oiling it, which the Scottoiler doesn’t do. I also didn’t like the installation on the F650...too much of a hassle. No, for $200+ tax + shipping I will save my money and do it the old-fashioned way. Also, I use 90 weight transmission oil (which the Scottoiler won’t handle) and it works really great on your chain. Echo
I just finished my install of the Loobman. Attached are a few pics I captured during installation.
For the Loobman installation, the mantra is: I LOVE zipties, I LOVE zipties, I LOVE zipties... this thing comes with a bunch!! It even uses them to actually apply the oil to the rear sprocket. The ends of two small zipties are fitted to a fixture that is secured to the swingarm. They lightly rub either side of the sprocket and deliver oil via capillary/ gravity forces.
The installation is a bit wonky, since the instructions are cartoon illustrations, not actual photos. The Loobman website has a few pics of installed units on Honda, Yammys, etc. but no F650(GS)s.
First, I assembled the ziptie holding fixture using the ends of two small zipties and supplied hardware.
Next, I did lotsa thinkin', tinkerin' and contraptin' to bent the fixture holding rod so that it would hold the fixture securely in place on the swingarm. I then secured it in place using the supplied zipties.
Looking for a place to attach the reservoir/squeeze bottle was next. The most logical place was on the right side frame member, adjacent to the (on GS's, anyway) rear shock preload adjuster. The Loobman kit also includes an adapter for the bottle mount for use on round tube frames, but I discarded that to my Parts Left Over pile.
Next, I attached a small piece of tubing to the feed tube (this was a pain, since they fit together so tightly. Loobman advises to use a drop of oil to help). Then, the feed tube is attached to the large tube that clips on the side of bottle holder.
Then, I routed the supply line from the bottle to the fixture on the swingarm, and cut off the excess length. I LIGHTLY secured the tube to the swingarm with a loosely fitted guess, what?...ZIPTIE :)
It took two attempts to get the supply line routed where I thought it would work best. Remember, this is a gravity fed system, so the tubing needs to run downhill, always.
After checking for component interference, and refitting that dreaded chain guard, I filled the bottle with 20W50 motor oil (Loobman sys to use 10W40, but none was handy) and gave it a squeeze...
After nothing happened, I squeezed again. And Again. Wait!! Too much squeezin'!! One squeeze, then wait. The oil takes its own sweet time coming around, but it does, and drips on the floor. Loobman says to squeeze the bottle, and then ride off. I haven't given it a shakedown run yet, but I'll keep you updated on how its working out.
In all, it took about an hour and a bunch of zip ties. Not bad for $28.00.
OH Eric #1112
My Install was similar to the above except:
On the wire bending, I got fancy and added a little loop to retain the delivery tube. I'm not sure if it will actually help anything, but I think it's a neat concept.
Also, if you use a short little wire like this, it allows you to get at least two trials out of the wire they give you... after I'd hopelessly bent the original loop end, I made a new loop on the other end and started over. With my previous practice, this turned out much better.
The whole wire bending thing is the only really hard part about installing the Loobman, it took me about half an hour.
For the bottle setup, I wanted to run the catch tube on the inside of the bottle (toward the center of the bike), but it interfered with the brake cable too much this way. It's a little more exposed this way; we'll see how it lasts.
You also might add the website for Loobman: http://www.chainoiler.co.uk/ and the fact that they take PayPal.
Electric Chain Oiler: Hawkeoiler should be the one you are referring to. www.hawkeoiler.com. Andy #618
It's not electric but it's cheap....no experience with it either. www.chainoiler.co.uk Gerry #951
Loobman Chain Oilers. www.loobman.com. (Larry The chainoiler.co.uk and the Loobman would appear to be the same.)
Chaintec Electronic Chain Oiler Kit. http://www.chaintec.co.uk
CLS Chain Lube Systems http://www.cls200.de/English.html.
Some links and info on the subject (In German) )http://www.taunusbiker.de/~mdvp/Kette/Oiler.html
I have 29,000 miles on my DID chain at present with my own oiling system that cost $7 to construct/install. I expect 35,000 on this chain. If interested, drop me a note. Steve prof@f650.com
Experience & Comments on alternative chain oilers:
Wanted to save a few bucks so I ordered a 'Loobman' ($26US). As far as I can tell, it is much simpler to install but does not have automated lubrication. Delivery is supposedly better as it applies oil to both sides of the sprocket just before the chain. I've installed the Loobman www.chainoiler.co.uk and am happy with it. Very simple install and inexpensive solution. Just squeeze before moving and your done. Oil bottle is also easily removable which is handy. Larry
I have the CLS oiler on my GSD and have the same gunk around the front sprocket. No fling off the back until I put Touratech bags on then lots if oiler is on over 35 mph. Nice thing about the CLS is the reostat to turn it off or higher flow as the sit demands. Have a Scott on my XR650L and no fling off at all due to not having the air currents caused by the bags. At least the chain is always clean ! Bill #697.
Loobman: My first attempt at the install failed, the "brushes" that dribble the oil onto the rear sprocket wouldn't stay in the correct position. Then, this "delivery mechanism" vibrated off the bike. It could work with some effort to install it correctly, but my impression is that it fits under, "you get what you pay for" category. (Tim) Suzy255
Loobman: Had one too. I ride a fair amount of dirt and it lasted two trips before the "guides" came out. I took the rest of it off. If you ride only street, I would think it's a great product. Mine did a great job until subjected to dirt. Gerry #951
I ordered a Loobman (alternative to Scottoiler) and after about a week it came in the mail. I haven't installed it yet, it took a while to read the directions and assemble it. First impression, this is a pretty basic device. There's a bottle which holds the oil, you squeeze the bottle filling up a small reservoir in the tubing which then drips down to the applicator head on the rear sprocket. When the reservoir is empty you squeeze the bottle again (about 50 to 100 miles according the the directions) There is no metering device that I can see, apparently this is controlled by enlarging or making smaller the capacity of the reservoir. The applicator head is made buy cutting pieces of zip tie and inserting them in the head. The oil runs down the pieces of zip tie to the chain. There are two zip tie drippers, one for each side of the chain. I'm not sure I like it. When you come to a stop it looks like the oil continues to drip. (unlike the Scottoiler which shuts off at idle) Once you fill the reservoir, oil will drip until its empty. Loobman points out that righthand chain bikes on a sidestand will cause the Loobman to drip on the tire. Initial impression: Scottoiler is too expensive, but it does work in practice. Loobman does not appear to be a cheaper alternative that I at least would be happy with. Having said that, I haven't installed it yet so I really cant say I have actual experience with it. To be continued. Paul in NJ.
I find the CLS better due to the smaller oil bottle. Ease of mounting and the adjustability on the fly with the knob on the dash. I have found that with saddle bags I get a lot of oil fling above 45mph so can cut it off until below that speed. Without the bags don't have that problem. Have talked to others that have observed the same thing. I also have a Hawk oiler that will install on my 01 Bonni one of these days. No place to put a gravity feed system on that bike so need the pump. (Wbateman)
I know the Scottoiler works well, if it is not too hot and not too cold. And since it is a hassle to install it, I don't want it. I also don't want the mess from cleaning and lubing the chain in my garage anymore. It might be just me, but I always make a mess. Since I'm not planning to change my chain every 10,000 miles, I'm toying with the idea of buying the CLS 200u Chain Lube System. I have only heard very good comments about the system. It is temperature controlled, meaning the oil won't just run out on hot days and doesn't freeze off on cold days. You also have the possibility to adjust it to your current driving (slower, faster, off-road). The CLS sells in Germany for 171,55 +16%Tax = 199.00 Euro. I guess I just bring the CLS over the next time I go overseas. BTW it's $200 +shipping, no extra tax.Ralf
I'm seriously considering
the CLS system also. Especially with the extreme temperature changes here in
Colorado, it sounds like it would perform better (more even oil distribution
despite temp changes) than a Scotty. Plus, it's a heckuva lot easier to
install. So far everybody that I spoke too that has this system has been very
pleased with it. Natalie