Instrumentation Lights FAQ

compiled & edited by Kristian #562
Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.

Replacing/Checking the Dash Lights

by Flash #412


Has one of your Dashlights stopped working.? First check the Fuses under the seat. If they are O.K. then:


What you need to do is remove the faring. This is a simple job and can be done with two of the tools in the tool kit. Remove the black plastic engine covers from either side. There is a screw facing DOWN that attaches them to the plastic piece at the radiator. Remove the screws between the tank and the fairing on each side. Put a jacket or heavy towel on the front fender to protect it in case you drop the fairing. Remove the four screws holding the windshield. Remove the windshield and the black plastic piece under it. Don't lose the rubber nuts, which are a press fit. There were four screws exposed when you removed the black cover piece. Only the two facing directly left and right are holding the fairing at this point. You leave the other two in place. When you have the fairing lose, pull forward a bit and wiggle it to get it loose from the tank. Unplug the connector from the back of the headlight bulb and pull the parking light rubber out of its socket in the headlight. Unhook the turn signals and set the fairing aside.

Now take a look at the bottom of the Speedo. You're looking for a bulb holder with a grey/yellow wire and brown wire. Either it fell out or it is still plugged in. Probably it is still plugged in and the bulb is bad. Replace the bulb and/or just plug the thing back in the Speedo.

To reassemble is slightly more time consuming than disassembly. Be sure to plug all the lights back in before you start replacing any screws. Pay careful attention that you have all the tabs and slots happily mated between the tank and fairing before you start with the myriad of screws. Those two screws at the top which you removed last should go in first. They'll support the mess while you dink with the tabs.

Now... the trick... before you insert a screw, stick the Allen wrench in the hole and make sure every thing is aligned. Work slowly and patiently. Insert ALL of the tank screws a couple of turns and THEN tighten them down. Do not over-tighten. The rest is simple after that.

BTW... here is the wiring diagram, which shows the three fuses on the bike. There are only three fuses and they under the seat.


Oil Light not working ?
Fede & Hombre sin Nombre

November '01

The problem often lies with the pressure sensor located over the main body of the engine, rear of the cylinder. This sensor, and in the same manner the rear brake sensor, are a sheet bronze type sensor that sometimes is easily partially broken (a little porous is enough) and makes the oil dashboard light or the rear stop light, respectively, not light up.

To test this, when your oil light doesn't light, disconnect the electrical cable in the sensor and with the main key in the on position, touch the cable with the same engine (making contact) and the oil light must light. If it does not, you must replace the sensor. Tips to access it are here.


Make sure you have cancelled out the possibility that it's just the lamp that went bad, rather than the sensor. The oil sensor is easy to find to ground the wire, above and behind the oil filter housing.

Nick #1085


Oil pressure comes from the oil pump operating when the engine is running. When you hit the kill switch the engine (and oil pump) stops running. That's why your (low) oil pressure light comes on. The oil pressure is a function of the pump and not the amount of oil, except if the oil level gets really low. The low oil pressure light will stay on when the engine isn't running until you turn off the ignition.

Mike #639


Neutral Light staying ON all the time.?

by Flash #412

Typical Question "Well I just noticed something. I had a local dealer install new tires on my bike and do an oil change. On the way home I noticed that when shifting the machine shifts fine but the neutral light never goes off. It WAS fine this a.m. but now it is not. What would cause this and is there an easy remedy or should I bring it back to him and have him look at it ?"

Answer: On a classic, the neutral wire runs right by the oil filter cover. I bet he pinched the wire in the cover, permanently shorting it to ground, lighting up the neutral light, until the bulb burns out. If you have a classic, pull the small cover held by two screws that is to the right of the oil filter cover as you face the bike. This means it is toward the front. That will enable you to more clearly see what is going on. If he REALLY screwed it up, you may want to pull the countershaft sprocket cover, too. The neutral wire snakes down in there and slips over a little post. You'll probably have to pull the oil filter cover to get the wire loose, puking your brand new oil all over the side of your bike. You'll probably need to replace what oil gets lost, unless of course the guy you paid over filled it because he has no clue and didn't check it HOT.

Neutral Light Not Working

by Flash #412

Typical Symptoms:  My wife's 97' F650's neutral light doesn't always work. 90% of the time it doesn't work if I jiggle the lever it will come on sometimes. Anyone know what all that entails to fix?


Cracked Dash ?

Is this common? Well a few Classic owners have reported it. Please respond if the clear portion over the idiot lights on your classic's dash has cracked.

Clock Light Not Working?

If your CLOCK is not working or going crazy see this FAQ:

I can reach up and remove most of the bulbs under there, but not the clock bulb. To get it back in I have to remove much of the fairing. Be gentle as it's one of those plastic sockets that rotates and pulls out and it's easy to break the socket re-installing it. Todd #389

Temperature Light not Working? Want to know how to Check it?
by Flash #412 et al.

Q. Is there anyway to check that the temperature light on a F650?
A. It's either the Sensor or the Bulb

Here's how to check the light bulb (BOTH bikes). Pull the single wire off the sensor and ground it with the ignition on. If it doesn't come on, de bulb is dead. If it does, then there is nothing wrong with the wiring that is supposed to make it light up if your engine overheats.

The sensor on both bikes is right side of the cylinder head. Make sure that connection is tight and dry.

That, or you have a blown bulb.

This is unrelated to the bulb/sensor, but you should also Check:

There is some debate about whether to WAIT for the Temp light to go out or not before starting the F650GS. The Classic doesn't have this Problem. ONLY the Oil "Pressure" light comes on at start up on the Classic.