The Aftermarket Seats FAQ
compiled & edited by Kristian #562. Updates by Nick #1085, mspeed#1023
Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.

Photo Gallery

Woolly Bully
Fred #172

Well Fred may win the best seat cover award with this.

We all know how warm the seat can get after setting in the sun and from the engine heat transferred under the seat to your bottom-side.

Fred had a pelt of sheepskin cut to form the stock seat by Don Weber of Mr. Ed's Upholstery. As you can tell from the picture on the left, Fred has a very cushy ride. Got a pelt of sheepskin, give Mr. Ed's a call. He's listed in the classifieds.


Low Budget F650 Seat Fix

OEM Seat Fix #1
by Marty #436

The BMW F650 comes with a typical BMW seat…worthless. The usual fix is to pitch the stock seat and purchase a suitable aftermarket seat. Unfortunately, the cost of this fix can be steep.

A lower budget solution to the stock 100-mile seat is outlined below (I've done over 10K on my F650 with it). Two caveats (besides the usual do it at your own risk bit):

  1. It will raise your seat height by 1-2 and also a bit wider, so not for vertically challenged riders

  2. Depending upon the amount of air in the self-inflating pillow, the bike can feel a little less stable, as the air cushion separates the seat-seat interface.

Side view of seat as assembled

Top view of seat as assembled

Side view of seat with sheepskin removed

Top view of seat with sheepskin removed (valve shown in circle)

OEM Seat Fix #2
by Rob (UK)

I did my Dakar seat a few thousand miles ago. It cost not a penny, took about 1.5hrs and made an absolute world of difference. Half hour before and I was getting dead arse, I have just done a tour of Ireland doing at least 8hrs a day without a hint of discomfort.

You will need:

The job is a little fiddly but not at all hard and makes a HUGE difference.

OEM Seat Fix #3

by Scott Urban, ID #1244

The problem: Forward tilt of the '02 Dakar seat had me riding the "tank." This was especially bad when riding downhill, while two-up, or while wearing a "fanny" (American sl.) pack full of stuff, or after 1 hour of steady riding (apparent settling of the foam).

The fix:

  1. Before going at it, I pulled one staple to check the size: The original staples were about 1/4 inch, so I went and bought a pack. I then tested my staple gun to be sure it would work with the hard plastic seat. I have a manual gun, and it worked OK. An electric might be easier and better if you don't have the grip of a rock climber . . .

  2. Prior to removing the staples, I took a white coloured pencil and traced the edge of the upholstery; this would be my guide as to where the edge needs to be stretched back to. I also drew several lines perpendicular to this edge line. These lines ("index lines" in Photo 1) also helped in the re-install process. (Note: if you add or subtract a lot of material, the fabric may or may not return to the same exact position. In my case it did).

  3. Photo 1

  4. I removed all the upholstery staples from the front half of the seat. The back half I left alone. I used a straight screwdriver to pry them out.

  5. It turns out the seat fabric is attached to the foam, so adding/removing material directly under the fabric isn't a viable option. I'm guessing they lay the fabric in a mold, then inject the foam onto the fabric. Anyhow, once the staples are removed you can lift the foam away from the seat bed.

  6. I obtained a wide selection of foam from a friend who fits knee braces and shoe orthotics for a sports medicine clinic. This is all closed cell foam (Photo 2). I also had some 1/4 inch neoprene scraps from a dive shop, though I didn't use it, yet. I cut a 5x8 inch piece of 1/4-inch Ensolite foam (the blue stuff in the pictures). I wanted something stiff and resilient. The Ensolite is the same stuff backpacking sleeping pads are made of. Whatever you use, be sure it is a kind of foam that will not permanently deform after a few sittings; pinch it real hard and see if it rebounds back to normal. By trial and error, I added and removed different layers/sizes, then lowered the original foam seat into position, and sat on it. Even went for a couple of drives around the block before deciding on a fix: Two layers of the blue stuff, with a final layer of 1/8 inch neoprene. I added a small strip of 1/4 inch around the very front end too (see Photos 3 and 4). I did this because the original foam is very thin here, and I wanted a little more protection. (Note: final green neoprene layer not shown in photos.)

  7. Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo4

  8. Using contact cement (just a few patches as you might want to undo the job some day!), I glued each layer in. The stick shown in the photos is to allow the glue to cure prior to pressing the pieces together.

  9. Re-installing the fabric: Starting from the back, I stretched the fabric so the closest "index line" was lined up, and put two staples at that line. I then stapled the area surrounding the line, then stretched the next index line into position, etc., etc. working towards the front.

  10. The whole project took about 2 hours, including test rides. Getting the fabric stretched and installed to a nice, original appearance was fairly easy, especially with the help of the index lines and edge lines made in step 2, and would be even easier with an electric stapler. I will say that a few tiny wrinkles can be seen near the centre of the seat. This is because I essentially lifted the front of the seat, so a few wrinkles will form where the seat has flexed. Since the fabric is fixed to the foam, you can't just stretch it smooth. However, after 3 days of riding, the wrinkles are nearly gone, and are not noticeable.

  11. Three days later I can say the seat feels much better, and it only cost me a few dollars in materials (glue, staples, etc.). Normally I would be pushed right up to the "tank" while riding two-up; today there is 1.5 inches of seat remaining between me and the tank.

  12. Have fun, and good luck!

  13. Addendum:
    When I go all day, I strap on a piece of RidgeRest foam. This provides better support for long rides; a most elegant and attractive fix. ;>) Anyhow, works great for me. And being removable, it makes a good sit pad when stopping along the trail for a snack.

OEM Seat Fix #4
by RPozak

I've done several modifications to my OEM '02 F650GS seat. I think I've found the most comfortable version for someone 5'8"-5'9" with 30-31" inseam. I removed about 1/2" of foam from under the seat in the rear of the driver's seat area to lower the back of the seat. I added high density foam as shown in the attached file to raise the front of the seat. The two rectangular cut-outs eliminate high spots that I found painful.

Corbin Seats

Charlie's Corbin Seat. (Classic)

Eric's Corbin Seat. (GS)

Rebecca's Corbin Seat. (GS).

Corbin's Seat Pics. (GS).

Here's some .mov files mov1, mov2, mov3, (Approx 4MB each) and a lightened .avi file (Single 9MB File) of how to install the Rear Compartment Lid with a Corbin (or any other High Back Seat). (Thanks to Seacuke #1214).

Dakar Single Seat
Courtesy of DHP#711 here:

Lock Unit NOT Included. (Seat ONLY is Part # 9 048 198).

High and Low Stock Seats for GS/Dakar

Here is a picture of both a low stock seat (left) and a replacement high seat (right). Courtesy of my friend Haakon. The 1.5 inch (40 mm) difference is very obvious and they seem to have fairly the same forward inclination. The BMW part number for the high seat is 52 53 2 345 735. About $200 at any BMW dealership. Fernando.

Low seat from Mike (aka Ziggy)  Part Number on box  Stamped under seat

Modified Stock Seats

Aridriel's reupholstered seat

Brad's reworked Dakar seat

Mr Ed's Seats

Photo of Mr Ed's Seat. (Classic).

XtremeLEE1188's Mr Ed's Custom (Classic).

Bert's BMW solo seat as modified by Don Weber of Mr. Ed's Moto.

What is this mystery plug?

It's one of 8 located under the Classic seat.

Pablo's Solo Seat

More Pablo Seat Pics

Russell Saddle

Seat Release Trick for GS/Dakar by Wayne
Here is a pic of the BestRest "T" model, installed, on my 2003 Dakar. However, Anyone who uses an aftermarket seat in conjunction with a BestRest rack may have a problem getting into their rear storage compartment, as the rack completely covers the top of the compartment... My Corbin seat is very high in the rear and there is no way to get into the compartment to release the seat. The following three pics are my solution -

PIC 1: I tied some stainless steel Ook painting-hanging wire behind the BASE of the red seat release (you have to tie it behind the base or the leverage to pop it will not be sufficient).
PIC 2: Then I ran it through the drainage hole on the floor of the compartment.
PIC 3: (from underside of bike, in rear wheel well): Then you simply cut it to your taste and tie a loop in it, and you are done.

Now you can pop the seat keylessly and get into the rear compartment after the seat comes off.

Wayne #1314

Trevor's Very Special Soft Seat

Wunderlich Ergo

The high, low and extra-low seats from Wunderlich.

Aftermarket Seat Opinions


Airhawk Inflatable Seat Cushion


Cooler Seats


Heated Seats

Mr Ed’s - Don & Deb's Moto

Rich's Upholstery

Rick/Bill Mayer



Seat Covers


Single (Solo) Seats


Stock GS Dual-Seat: BMW Parts Numbers

Modified Stock




Note: For Photos, Visit the Gallery above.


Airhawk Inflatable Seat Cushion


Cooler Seating (Cool-Butt)

Corbin's Corbin Seats or 

Heated Seats

Mr Ed’s - Don & Deb's Moto

Rich's Upholstery

Ricky Mayer - Bill Mayer Saddles / Rick Mayer Saddles

Russell - Russell Day-Long Saddles

Sargent Seats - Sargent Cycle Products

Seat Covers


Single Seats


BMW Parts Numbers for Stock GS Dual-Seat

Modified Stock

Wunderlich Sitzbankserie Ergo

Ideas and Links

Cleaning Seats