Aftermarket Classic Engine Protection/Frame Accessories FAQ
& edited by Kristian #562
Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.
Opinions on Aftermarket Frame Accessories - BOTH Bikes
Click Link for Gallery of Pictures for the GS
For the Lower Front Fender Refer the Link
For Lowering Options refer Lowering Kit FAQ
For Replacement Gear Shift Levers refer Gear Shifting
For Replacement Brake Pedals refer Aftermarket Levers FAQ
of H-B Engine Protection Bars
The Instructions that come with the Bars are in German and very limited. The following is how to do it:
Position the rack in the mounting position and note that the bottom bracket is offset to the left side of the bike, when the top bracket is lined up in its correct position. This space is to be filled by the two large spacer-washers which permits the oil hose to go over the top of the spacers and not be pinched by the bar.
1. Remove the two bolts that go through the frame and through the front of the engine.
2. Take each stud bolt, from the kit, and install a locking nut from the kit on one end of each bolt leaving 2 threads showing. (you can hold the centre of the stud with pliers, while installing the nut).
3. Hold the rack in position, place a thin washer over the longest stud bolt and insert it through the bottom mounting hole in the rack, from the left side of the bike. Then slip the two big wide spacer-washers over the stud bolt, before the bolt goes through the frame. As you insert the stud into the frame hole position the oil line above the spacers. Put a washer and nut on this stud, but don't tighten yet.
4. Put a washer on the shorter stud bolt and insert it through the rack and frame. Put a washer and nut on this stud.
5. Tighten the nuts on the right side of the bike, so they have at least 2 threads showing.
6. No instructions were given for torque, so I used 60 NM. I figured if the oil sump plug can take 40NM and the counter sprocket nut can take 100NM, then 60NM would be OK. If I had a manual I would use the values for the original mounting bolts. I'm not concerned about the nuts coming off, they're locked, I'm concerned about the proper torque to share load between the engine and the frame, and not OVER-TIGHTEN which would damage the engine case!
August 21, 2000
The Chain Gang Staff and Charlie Christensen
Updated by Kristian #562
The Website of Riky Cross (Italy) is http://www.rikycross.it/principale.htm. Apparently they won't sell direct however. The website isn't too hot either. Pics are in the ITALIAN Section only. Under Rally Accessories, Fuel Tank Guard, you'll see that they DO list this item for BOTH Classic and the GS.
These gems were found at the 2000 MOA International rally in Michigan. What makes the Riky Cross protectors and exceptional value besides the price is what the protect. Most other bars such as BMW and Hepco Becker bars (also shown in picture) only protect the fairings. A full power drop can cause the bike to roll over bars and still damage the tank.
The Riky Cross bars will work with the BMW and Hepco Becker bars. Charlie's F650 (shown in picture) has the BMW bars. Charlie has found a local metal fabricator that welded his protectors together. The kit has two halves with a front centre connection point. Because of the BMW factory engine guard the centre connection point on the Ricky Cross bars were custom welded and bolted to the BMW guard. The original Ricky Cross centre or mid connection point was an all threaded bolt that went through the place where the top of the BMW guard was. The rear connection point is the 2nd bolt of the foot rests. The upper screen grating might be a good place for mounting PIAA 1200 lights or similar lights
You can get the (Ricky)/Riky Cross bars from Adventure Motorcycle, the same guys who sell the Extenda-Fender. http://www.adventuremotogear.com/bmw.htm
Note some confusion exists as to the spelling of Ricky/Riky, but it would appear Riky is correct.
Ricky Cross Centrestand, Engine protector, Fuel Tank Guard, 2nd Fuel Tank Guard.
Happy Trails Engine Protectors & Footpegs
Regarding the strength of the highway pegs and the bar they're mounted on: I wouldn't try to stand on them -- first because they're so far forward, and second because the bar is bolted to the front of the skidplate, which in turn is bolted to the same mounting bracket as the stock plastic skidplate uses. So the pegs are fine for resting your feet on and even pushing against a bit while stretching, but not for standing.
This kit didn't include an engine protection bar, like BMW and Hepco-Becker make. But the skidplate is first class. It's made of thick aluminum and uses three heavy duty half-round clamps to mount to the two bottom frame tubes. It's also powder-coated in your choice of colors.
No mounting instructions came with it, but I figured it out after about 15 minutes -- if I can do it, anyone can.
Cost of the skidplate + highway pegs kit was $179. Happy Trails website address is: http://www.happy-trail.com/
Jesse Bash Plate/Sump Guard
from this site: Jesse Sump Guard.
Note the Jesse Sump Guard is the MIDDLE bit only. The Engine Protection Bars are from BMW.
Touratech Sump Guard
from Touratech Germany or Touratech USA
Touratech notes Cannot be used with original BMW crash-bars but it appears they can be use with Hepco-Becker Crash Bars as Touratech Sell them too.
Wunderlich Centrestand Skid Plate & Engine Guard
Wunderlich. Kühlerschutz VA
Footpeg/Highway Bar Alternatives
Footpeg Relocation (Classic)
See the GS Aftermarket Frame Accessories FAQ for Footpeg Options on the GS/Dakar incl. Touratech & Wunderlich)
Classic Footpeg Relocation Alternatives?
I still love my 97 but the foot peg location just does not seem right for rough terrain especially going up hill. I need to relocate them up and back. Anyone know of a cure for this short of buying the new model. I too thought of perhaps cutting and then re-welding the shifter/brake to get them in position but was hoping there would be a Touratech type kit somewhere that would do it for me. Kent#114
My friend swapped the foot peg mounts, left to the right and right to the left moving the foot peg aft. He said it was really a good position for him he’s 6 ft. 1 in. He also had 1 inch added into the stock seat. He shortened the brake pedal to suit. I never saw the set up but he is selling me his seat and the modified brake pedal. He used a shifter from some other bike. I’m not sure but I think this makes the pegs not fold back I’m still waiting to see what he sends me in the mail. Note; he made these changes for road riding, said it kept him farther forward on the seat and allowed him to get a little lower. He also had lowered the fork tubes one inch in the triple clamp. He bought an SV 650 but said the Funduro was a better bike. Interesting, when you ask him if he’s made many changes to the SV (he has owned many bikes) and his response is “I don’t like it enough”. Will in CA
I took some steel stock 1/4 thick, 1 inch wide, about 5 inches long, doubled up to make a half inch thick. I drilled 3 holes (explained below), temporarily stuck nuts and bolts through to hold the two pieces together, used a grinder to shape it the way I liked, painted it black, then put it between the peg and the frame with longer bolts. The three holes get used as follows (from front to back): the first bolt mounts the spacer to the front frame hole. the second and third bolts are the same width apart as the footpeg holes. the second bolts mounts the front of the peg through the spacer and to the rear frame hole. the third bolt mounts the rear of the peg to the spacer, with a nut behind it. all in all, this moves the pegs back about 1.5 inches (easing shifting with MX boots), and out 0.5 inches, improving stance. This was an easy and effective solution...much better than swapping pegs. That's just a bad idea, as your pegs are now too far back and they fold in the wrong direction when you touch down, which could be hazardous. Mark #403.
Highway Pegs on Engine
Arkansas Highway Pegs, by Flash #412. Sir, I will have you know that is no broomstick handle. It is, in fact, a piece of a genuine Arkansas oak tree, hand carved by a Boy Scout of America and left to be found by a biker in need at the campground in Mena, Arkansas at the Jailbreak in 2001. The photo shows version 1(a) attachment. Version 1 was simply tiewraps. The hose clamp was added at a truck stop in Oklahoma somewhere. Version 2 has only hose clamps, no tiewraps. OEM BMW engine protection bars are CRITICAL for the mounting of this piece of folk art.
A friend welded a small plate into each side of the engine protection bars and fitted the cheapest set of generic aftermarket footpegs he could find. Cheap and effective he says. Doesn't suit my riding style though. Tink, F650GS Dakar, Brisbane, Australia.
I've fitted the BMW option engine protection bars, and I think I'll look for a set of generic fold-back pegs that can be adapted to fit the narrow diameter of the tubes. Roadking 01 F650GS Muskoka Ontario Canada
Many riders just use the clamp-on highway pegs. The only rider that I spoke with that had these really liked them! I am sure that you can get them from almost any shop. I guess the hard part will be to find some that are not chrome. facito, 2001 F650GSA, Las Vegas, Nevada.
Try the Happy Trails gear, shown in the FAQ. Turns out the Happy Trails company is about 4 blocks from my office. Made my first visit today, looking at racks, etc. I saw a bike there with the engine guard and highway pegs. Cost is about $239 for the whole setup. Looked fairly substantial, unlike the stock guard that BMW put on my Dakar. The below link takes you to their peg/guard page. http://www.happy-trail.com/productinfo.aspx?productid=104 Scott #1244 -- Boise, ID. -- '02 Dakar
Footpeg Rubber Fell Off? (Classic)
There is a nut that fastens the rubber bit to the footpeg. Like all other non-Loctited nuts, it will have a tendency to loosen and fall off. Then the rubber is free to leave when the opportunity presents. Marty #436-Chicago-97 F650F
Opinions on Engine Protection Accessories for BOTH BIKES
Engine Protection Bars/Sump Plates
Yes they are worth putting on if only to protect expensive plastic. I have dropped my f650 twice, each time the bike was static: 1 I had a new disc lock on and tried to ride off, no injury but bent clutch lever: 2 manoeuvring the bike parked on a slope, down onto a inclined road, forgot basic laws of physics (centre of gravity etc), bike fell over to wards me, bent brake lever. I think that the bars will give protection if you come off at low speed, as they will be the first thing to hit the road. Mal
What is the BMW Engine guard mounting-torque?. The one a mounted on my '98 Classic asked for 50nm for each of the 4 bolts. Actually it doesn't explicitly say each bolt. It says (after telling you to ".... tighten with new self-locking nut from retrofit kit"): ATTENTION. The tightening moment is 50 Nm. PaulRJ #1218 Boston
The BMW Engine bars are small enough not to get in the way when heeling over and are handy if you want to bolt anything to them, also ideal to put feet on when cruising. Jack (UK) '99 FL650st.
I have the BMW bars and just put on highway pegs last Monday. The bars were a little small for the pegs and I had to make a shim out of an old piece of copper pipe. Charlie #070
I just installed a set of BMW engine guards on my new to me F650. Two observations: 1. The triangles welded on the bars, near the holes that bolt up to the frame using the engine mount bolts were too tight to use a 17mm socket (or any conventional tool). I had to wedge it and tighten with the Allan bolt. 2. The left crash bar has a bracket that slips over the frame and tightens with a bolt and spacer. The low-pressure oil return line going threw the area now rests on top of the nut for the bars. I covered the nut with the plastic cap but I am still concerned that vibrations might make this a problem. I am going to keep an eye on the oil line as I put some miles on the bike. PaulNJ97ST
If you are worried about the line, cut a piece of hose lengthwise and zip tie it around the oil line where it hits the nut. Mike
The plastic cap will be good enough. I found/did the same thing, once the cap shrinks to fit it will last fine. I have put about 20,000 miles on mine with that setup with no problems. Peter Jensen #233 97 ST VT USA.
Q. Are engine bars for the F650 Funduro and
A1. There are two minor differences in the BMW factory engine guard bars. The template (for cutting the belly pan) that comes with the ones for the ST is not identical to the one for the Funduro. (You don't NEED the template anyway.) And the ones for the ST cost $20 more. Go figure. Anyway, the frame and engine for the two machines are identical. So I would think ANY bars that work on one would work on the other. No matter what bars were being installed, one will probably need to relieve the plastic pan in a couple of places. (A Dremel tool or a belt sander both work just fine for this.) Flash 412 (CO)
A2. The only difference between the factory Funduro and Strada kits is that the Strada kit comes with a new belly pan (pre-cut) hence the $20 difference. The mounting is the same for both. 97 ST VT USA, Peter Jensen #233
Throw the plastic POS away and get one from Jesse that actually "guards" the engine. Can't vouch for the H-Bs, but fits fine with my OEM Bars. (And don't have to remove it to change oil!) David #476, '99 F650, Las Vegas, NV.
The BMW guard must be rotated forward on its upper mount (but does not have to be removed) in order to gain access to the sump plug for oil changes. It's also a bit of a pain to clean. It does protect pretty well, as I have a fair amount of paint missing from the bottom of the guard, and no damage at all to the engine. Robin #790, '01 GSD Chicago
I have the Hepco Becker engine protectors on a classic F, and they have definitely saved the engine and body work in a couple minor spills I think they are well worth it. Paul #813
We have the H-B on S's 650GS. Great quality with hoops to protect upper front parts of bike in tipover. Easy to install. Gray finish with clear coat matches frame, engine. We mail ordered from BMW of Santa Cruz. Here's the link: http://www.bmwscruz.com Tim#255
Got mine from Eurotech Motor Sports. 1017 Willow Ave. Chino CA. 95928 (530) 345-7145. Part number 502.906 HB CYL BARS F 97 N Price $136.00, $12 shipping or $148 to the door. These fit my '99F. Scott #678
H-B crash bars? I have 'em for the 650gs.They bent in a fall. Still like 'em though. Chris.
Probably a good thing for driveway tip-overs. I wouldn't expect a lot of protection at high speed (but something is better than nothing, as long as they don't fold back on your leg/foot/ankle). According to the Hurt Report (c. 1980) the only effective protection is a protruding engine cylinder, i.e. BMW twin, Gold Wing, and to a lesser extent, Moto Guzzi. But a good place to hang stuff like lights, highway pegs and splash guards. I have them on my F650, BTW. Marty #436
I have H/B and Jesse bash plate. No problems at all. mark #403 (Classic).
I have a '99 F650 with Hepco-Becker Crash Bars. I bought Kury-Akyn Pegs and mounted them forward on the crash bars and it works great. You will need to shim them. Buy some copper pipe at the hardware store and use for shimming. Also, when you buy the Kury-Akyn pegs make sure that the mounting bracket is hinged, so you can really tighten it down. The other 3-piece type doesn't work nearly as well. Dick #420
I've had major problems with Hepco and Becker luggage racks in the past. Their welder/driller seems to be optically, mentally and parentally challenged to say the least. Hold the two bars together and look for odd angles or mis-positioning before the weld. I'd tell Bracken that if they usually fit fine, yours must be a bad batch. Andy Leeds UK #982
I installed the HB bars on my '99F and they went on according to the directions but were a bit tight to finish get them right. I had to shim one side of a mounting tab with 4 or 5 washers to make them fit. Love 'em but wasn't happy with the mfg quality. Scott (TX) #678
I don’t have the side cases, but I have the HB crash bars on my Dakar. I ops checked them in the dirt one day and can say they did a great job. Although my front left turn indicator snapped off, there wasn’t a scratch on the faux tank for which they’re designed to protect and just a scratch on the crash bars. I figure that one incident alone they paid for themselves. DH #920
I managed to T-bone a car this week on the 650. For some reason I thought she was turning right. I pulled left to share the lane as I passed... unfortunately that brand-new Honda CRV turned left. I was not very focused, locked it up and slammed into the rear driver side door. As the bike slammed against her car the Touratech cases maintained a safety space between my leg and the car. I ejected over the back of the car and free from the scene. When the bike fell on the left side it landed on the handle bar end, the HB bars, and the other Touratech case. The Handle bars were bent, but the HB bars and TT box only took minor scratches. While I trashed all the front plastic on the right side I was amazed how little damage was done. More aggressive handling would of got me around the back end... but I think being more tuned in in the first place was the critical flaw. I hate it when there is no one else to blame. oh well ride safe... pay your attending.. it is worth the cost of admission. Paul #813
I fitted my shiny new HB engine guard last night :), but I have a small concern :(. Has anyone else fitted one. Checking the FAQ it says that the spacers go on the LHS, but I still have a lot of space on the RHS, about 1.5 spacers. This space I have filled with my own spacers. But is seems not right. Could someone please send me a photo of their set up :-). J@mes NZ #848.
I installed the HB engine guard, and am really happy
with it's fit/finish, and protection provided. My question is in regards to the
stock engine pan. In order to remove the pan without at least loosening the
guards, I will have to flex the pan in quite a bit to make it fit between the
bottom of the guards as I lower it down. I don't want to compress it and have it
kink on me. Anyone have any experience in how much the pan will compress before
it kinks? I know I can bend it back, but I don't want any bending marks. When
the dealer changed the oil, they left the pan in, and I had oil and grit all
over the inside of the pan. In order to spot new leaks or problems I like to
have this part clean.
2003 GSA, Pittsburgh, PA. stuflinn
I have the h&bs, but I also have an aftermarket bash plate made of aluminum, which stops right at the drain plug for easy access. have you thought of replacing your plastic decoration with a real bash plate? Touratech and al Jesse both make them for the classic (I've got the Jesse plate). Mark #403, '99 F650, Bay Area, California.
I also have the the HB engine guards and the stock pan or skid plate. When changing oil I remove the bolts holding the skidplate and that allows it to be pushed forward enough so the oil draining from the engine doesn't contact the skid plate. This works without loosening the engine guards, and removing the skidplate bolts (three if I recall correctly) is very quick and easy. I hope we're talking about the same thing here (engine pan = skid plate?) and that this helps. Mike #926 Calif. liketoride2
Yes, we are talking about the same thing. It's three bolts. I want to slip the plate out for cleaning. It's not a huge inconvenience to loosen the engine guard, but I'd like to flex the plate and get it out without doing that. 2003 GSA, Pittsburgh, PA. stuflinn
I have the Hepco Becker/Wunderlich bars you are
considering, have also drug my shoes in corners, and the bars don't seem close
to grounding. I believe you will ground the footpegs well before the bars would
ground. I have no complaints about them except the cost. Mike #926, Calif.
Sump/engine guard. I have both the stock Touratech carbon fiber bash plate as well as the version with a 2L storage compartment (they also have a new 3 L version). I've bashed the living shit out of the bike across a wide area of terrain. There is nothing like having a kick ass piece of CF to keep the engine from being hit around. I also watched first hand all of the abuse that the same product took on the Dakar Rallye. Quite amazing. I've got no experience with Happy Trails but am not a fan of highway pegs. Simply not good to have things sticking out when you fall, they usually aren't protection but can change/inhibit the direction of the bike on it's path. I see these are being different in emergency function than say crash bars or panniers. If you want to spend a bit more ask Touratech about getting the sidestand conversion from the Rallye bike put on. It's a bunch beefier than the stock POS sidestand which bends like a pretzel and gets out of shape easily with hard use. If you do this extra conversion you'll be able to switch between bash plates with and without storage bins a nice plus to keep a 2L water bag with you down low where weight doesn't affect handling (as much) on trips. DavidHPark, #711
When I destroy the stock plate on my GS I'll move to the Touratech... (The GS/GSD has a metal skid plate...). The happy-trails looks like it eats too much ground clearance. I'm already scraping on some of the whoops if I don't power the front end up... I don't want to lower it even more. The highway pegs are interesting... I'm not a fan of highway pegs so I wouldn't want them... but the idea is interesting... With the highway pegs... I just thought of something... They will either bend or snap or worse transfer the force into the frame on a fall. This is why regular pegs move; they move so that the force that would go straight in to the frame is absorbed and redistributed/applied in a different direction. This is also why handler bars are weak. So that in a fall the bars bend not the forks/frame/triple (not that in a good fall you can't still do this.) PQBON.
Touratech sells a set of crash bars for the GS that come in two assemblies. The upper bar is the one I'm interested in. The part number is 051-0524. It protects the upper engine area and in particular the radiator that sits right under the side panels. The US price is listed at $94. Has anyone here installed this part? The picture on their web site only shows the connections at the front which are the usual frame bolts. The rear of it disappears into what looks like the cylinder block or head area. I sent them a note but I'd prefer to get some input from someone that has installed it.
The long awaited box from Touratech finally came
yesterday (ordered back in October I think) as they promised. Good looking pair
of pipes powder coated i think and not as heavy -3lbs a pair I guess, since I
need this I was not going to measure the weight. Instruction in German, of
course and no English. No problem, I read German (ex is one of them).
1 Unsnap the fairings at radiator.
2 Unscrew the top screws of plastic radiator cover @down tube.
3 Loosen the bottom screws (instruction says to unscrew but just loosen, and very hard to get to so save your wrist)
4 Unscrew lower front M8 engine mount to down tube -you will see the photo on instruction and I think you can tell from their web site pic.
5 2- M6 Stainless screws 2- M6 washers, 2- M12 washers, they all replace the top most screws of radiator plastic cover screws: crash bars attach between the plastic and the frame. Insert the washer (used as spacer and you will know why once you take the original screws out. Sneak the bar over, then put back the plastic over the bar, fasten with the new M6 +M6 washer.
6 1 M8 long 1 M8 locking nut and washer replace the engine mount screw on the down tube-the bottom end of the bar goes there.
All will take 15 minutes if you do have a clean bike, no bent pieces and screws are not frozen. My fairing has bent up snub (phallic looking plastic poker which inserts into the radiator cover) and was a dog to get it back into the place. Says to tighten all to 21 NM but only the M8 can be done with my tool set. A good deal of patience or those "dry set lock tight" will be needed to even apply thread lock as screw holes are hard to hit -you will see what I mean - just keep an eye on those radiator cover screws. The radiator cover screws are very pain to tighten once the crash bars are in -could use flex jointed ratchet extension and Torx bit but who's got such at home. could buy 3- 6 packs instead. After this was done, I futtzed with a yellow PIAA driving light I always need to keep "left turners" away -was hit before and since the light, not once such in 3 years. This took almost 3 hours to figure out and arrange already made brackets to work with the new bar.
Note: the lower corner of the radiator is situated between the bar top and bottom. Though farther recessed in from the plane defined by the foot peg, the bar and the handle bar at any angles, if a big rock happens there, you still might get the radiator dinged. They could add another vertical piece in that area, or you could. Hope I will never know.
A Very solid and sturdy addition, Hope I will never find it otherwise. On my expected slow drops I think the bars are more than adequate and in fact I still have not put on the BMW engine guard due to weight consideration. On a fast landing with hard things, I am concerned with my own crash bars. Bike can be fixed.
I will borrow a digital camera after I come back from Baja and will post a pic of the bar if anyone still then interested as well as a field report.
Back from Baja after 10 days and several solid dirt miles later. The bike held steady in all conditions even over baby head sized rock field. Touratech fairing crash bars are on the bike and have not had significant challenges to report. The only occasion was at a beach bluff hard pack sand from stop I twisted the grip a bit too hard while still leaned over and went down on the left faster than moved forward. Tomn.
Just put on both sets of guards today. The radiator set does not mount in the rear. The ends of the guards are free floating, stopping about an inch away from the engine. I don't know if having a solid mount to the head would be a good idea if the guards took a bad hit. I have faith that sooner or later I will test their effectiveness. Mike
I have one of the Wunderlich engine guards. It hasn't been tested yet but I am confident it will work. My friends tells me it looks like original equipment on the bike. When I bought my bike, I was told that the BMW one was more for protecting the engine when going over logs and not for dropping the bike or tipping it. Two things you should know. 1. The instructions are in German. It is still easy to figure out how to put it on. and 2. It is a two person job. You need one person holding the guard while the other tightens it on. Bryan #1157.
Wunderlich Sump guard Install. I've just installed mine. I found that its better to place them at the front and use two M10 nuts + washers for the back. That seems to work - but you have to look to see that it doesn't vibrate anywhere( mine does and is driving me mad). I bought the radiator grill as well and two bolts were too short, the spacers were the wrong thickness and I spent a lot of time sawing and fitting it correctly. My personal opinion:- Wunderlich have good ideas but there engineering is pretty dismal. Chris #1068.
Today I installed a Wunderlich metal Skid plate/sump protector/bash plate (whatever one wishes to call it) on my '99 F650, in place of the original black plastic protector. I ordered it through Yankee BMW here in LV and it arrived in just a few days. It seems very sturdy and looks very good. The only problem I had was the rear two bolts that attach the plate to the aft end of the engine. The bits and pieces sent along with the plate included washers, two metal spacers and two bolts with nylon hex nuts for the front end of the plate. There also were three rubber spacers that fit on the top of the plate to hold it away from the bottom rails of the bike. I assume they believed the two bolts that held the rear of the plastic plate would suffice but they proved to be too short to fit through the plate and then screw into the two clips. The rubber spacers hold the plate too far away and the original bolts weren't quite long enough. I had to obtain two longer bolts, not a problem but it took a bit to figure that the original bolts were a bit too short. Its now on and looks quite good. I'm told by a friend that has a metal bash plate on his F650 that now what I'll hear as I go down dirt roads/trails is the occasional bong/ding when a rock hits the plate. hmmmm-what musical note is it??? The plate, with shipping, was $137.37. Touratech has a plate that sells for less however it is 4mm thick and the Wunderlich is 6mm thick which makes a bit of a difference. Touratech also makes a plastic plate but I didn't like the looks of it although its supposed to be very serviceable. There were 5 spacers--three were black rubber and on one side of them, a small nipple, fit into holes on top of the plate. These are located toward the rear and along the sides toward the rear of the plate. The other two spacers were metal and fitted behind the front part of the plate near the top of where it curves up. Yes I think the plate looks very good and am looking forward to next weekend for trying it out on some dirt trails and roads. Bill No. 391.
I installed my Wunderlich skidplate last summer - which I was VERY happy for when I later was driving offroad in Iceland. Spakur.
Wunderlich Engine Protection Bars in F650GS. It is possible for the rider to place his/her feet on them, but they aren't wide enough for this to be very comfortable. It should be simple to attach a set of clamp-on pegs to the outside section (where they are vertical) but I actually haven't done that. They're somewhat different in appearance from other bars - if someone finds them attractive or ugly would be a matter of taste. They're well made, strong, and certainly provide good protection for the bodywork. However, I have some concern they could hang up on the sides of a rut or rocks in a tight situation when riding off-road as they're both low and wide. I've been contemplating trying the Touratech guards for that reason. That isn't a consideration for someone who rides pavement only, of course. Mike #926 Calif.
Radiator protection. I have been advised that you should look at installing some cardboard between the main bike frame and the radiator as small stones can get in behind the 2mm gap and over time wear a hole in the radiator. KiwiDakar.
With a little modification, you can a radiator-guard of a Kawasaki ZZR. Kawasaki-part 14037-1171. See http://home.wanadoo.nl/menk/_f650/funduro_dhz_eng.html for details.
I have the Jesse radiator guard. Jesse makes nice stuff and I'm sure it does the job, but a radiator guard is fundamentally a pretty simple thing (it's just heavy weight mesh in a frame), so I would be surprised if Touratech wasn't equally good. Mason #631
I got the Touratech grill along with everything else from those guys, and it's just great. I've done Argentina's Ruta 40, and Chile's Carratera Austral which were the stone ridden gravel roads from hell, and no problems. Jeremy, #1126
Touratech also sells a radiator guard. For $100, it's pricey, but I just bought a set of their Zega cases and the radiator guard and I'm ultimately impressed with the fit and quality. Everything was a simple bolt-on. The Zega cases rock. They are big and wide (I got the 41L for holding a helmet), but I love the urban assault look. Can't wait to fill 'em up and give them a good off-road working over. Too bad all of the forests are closed. The radiator guard is pretty beefy also. Much better than the window screen I had zip tied to the stock radiator fins. Check out the Touratech guard. They get a thumbs up from me. Mike.
I just bought and installed the Touratech guards, but somewhere between SC and Quebec the left one cracked. Luckily I had my duct tape and extra large Video Update rubber band to mend it for the trail riding and trip home. I will probably replace it with the Wunderlich version. Motoboy #820.
Wunderlich Radiator grill. So this should be added the the FAQ as an option. Personally, I don't like the look and it's WAY too much for a screen. The Touratech screen is cheaper and stronger (from my experiences with these straight type screens). I see the slanted protection type screens (ala Touratech) on more dirt bikes than the straight type screens. The straight type are easier to make than the cantilevered aluminum type. For double the price I don't see ANY benefit. It looks to me like just another mfg. converting a basic part to cover the catalog. DavidHPark, #711
Wunderlich radiator grill. For off road. Definitely yes. Specially with the GS fender. I have not heard about radiator damage, but when you think about it is easy to damage it. Even by yourself or riding behind somebody. guz
Wunderlich radiator grill. It's for a classic not the GS, I was looking under the GS stuff on the BMW Cruz site. Just look at the mounting points and the photo with the top of the red fender in there - classic for sure. Jesse also makes one for the classic, and I think it's a bit cheaper than the Wunderlich. Looks like Touratech is the only one with a guard for the GS...as of now. Mike
Mike and DHP, take a closer look at the BMW Santa Cruz website under F650GS or F650GS. I find a Wunderlich radiator guard on a GS and when clicking on the picture I see the following Link. Very pricey indeed at $159 (same as new radiator?) but to me it looks more efficient than the Touratech guard at catching small stones which would make it my choice if I were to make a big investment. http://www.r-a-d.com/catalog.html Pelle, Sweden.