Helmet FAQ
compiled & edited by Kristian #562
Please read the Disclaimer
before attempting any work in this FAQ.
This FAQ is a bit of a Misnomer. We will NOT cover buying or fitting helmets. Having said that it must fit YOUR head (NOT loosely), be Comfortable and be DOT approved. MOST folks agree a Full face is better than an Open Face. You've only got one Jaw, if you're attached to it, stay that way. Lots of Websites & Magazines cover this Topic, often. Read as much as you can there, ask the Shop Assistant and read the Manufacturer's Recommendations. It's the most important piece of equipment you'll buy. it doesn't have to be the most expensive one, but it must be both Safe and Comfortable.
There are a couple of areas where we can help though:
Ear Plugs & Intercoms refer Intercom FAQ
Flash's idea of sticking it in the Dishwasher when your wife is not looking works great. Lots of CG members have done it and swear by it.
Unsnap the liner, hand wash with Woolite in the sink, allow to dry, snap back into helmet. (for Schuberth helmet). Others are more problematic...there are several commercial helmet cleaners available, but they are a pain to apply, and even worse to remove. Marty #436-Chicago-97 F650F
Not too often...., but I take a big soft sponge and with the helmet on a towel in the kitchen sink wash it with soapy warm water like washing a pot. Rinse thoroughly with the sink's spray, blot as much water out with a big dry towel and place it on the lawn, upside down in the sun to dry. Guys, guys...., 2 days...., 4 days. Blot as much as you can with a cotton towel...., put the friggen thing outside, inside facing the sun, and ride off with it in an hour or less! Count on it (if you do it right)! Simple, thorough...., effective. Those sprays and helmet fresheners do squat and are like any other "cover up". Not too often, because I double wash my hair in the shower every morning which helps tremendously! No animals or helmets were harmed in any way in the above production. Art884 North. NJ
The Arai manual says it's OK to half-submerge the helmet in a mild soapy bath and use a gentle sponge action. It says air dry completely for 24 - 48 hours, right side up with the face shield removed. A lot of people also aim a fan at the face opening to speed drying. The only thing about this method is you have to use a mild enough detergent as to not break down the glue holding the foam and liner in place. Woolite or Techwash (Nikwax brand) should do the trick. Let me know which method you try as I have an old helmet that can use a bath. Marko (SF, CA)
Best option: Buy a System 4, You can remove the inside, wash it and put it back. Option 2: Buy a car carpet cleaning spray then use a towel to clean it and let it dry. guz
I've washed my Shoei RF800 several times by simply submerging it in warm water (I use a large plastic storage container) and washing the inside with Woolite. Rinse well and dry for a couple days. Works great and has no bad effect on the glue holding the liner in. Bob#550 (Olympia WA)
Dunk it. Like Bob#550 of Olympia, I too dunk my RF800 in a big tub of water, with either Woolite or Simple Green in there. I dunk and dunk and squeeze the lining and work it with my fingers to get all the mung and crap outta the lining, then I dunk in clean fresh water (well, as clean and fresh as we can get outta the tap in NYC in the summertime) until it no longer murkifies the water. Then I stuff it with newspaper, changing the newspaper often for two days, then let it air dry for another two days. Cleans it up nice, and the glue has not given way. Personally, if my sweat and sebum hasn't caused the glue to fail, soap won't hurt it either. Putting your helmet on your head after double washing your hair helps to keep the lid clean but that's not always possible. It takes about a year of wearing to fully skankify my lid, and then it gets washed. So far, it has survived three dunkings. Direct sunlight and heat will weaken the polystyrene shell which does the majority of head protecting should you and your helmet get up close and personal with the pavement. I'll continue to dry my lid in the shade. YMMV. Sunshine no good. Shank NYC USA
Cleaning Helmet/Dishwasher: Works great. Take out the upper rack if you have to. Put in Dishwasher powder, run you helmet through the cycle, then put it outside facing the sun. I do this with my Dirt Bike helmet and my Street Helmet. Gets' em nice and clean and fresh smelling. Dick #420
I use plain ole laundry detergent per my email from Shoei. I then dry in the shade. UV light will break down the foam in your helmet. (yup, I know Shank already said it...). Jo' in NJ
I wear a thin cotton head sock and in two years have never had to wash my helmet. But then I don't live on east coast. Chris in Santa Cruz, CA #782
Cycle Gear sells a product specifically for cleaning the inside of helmets if you can't bring yourself to put yours in the dishwasher or your bathtub. It is a spray foam, kind of like carpet cleaner I'll bet. Spray on, wipe off, let dry a hour or so. Works well unless your helmet is already a serious grunge bucket. And, hey, it makes it smell good! Motorex Helmet Care - $6. Looks like it is enough for a number of cleanings. Rumbles not included. BradG 1002, N, CA '01GS
Uh-oh, head odour! Now the sweaty part of the year is over I'm becoming aware of a 'niff' inside my lid. the padding isn't removable. I remember that Flash suggested using the dishwasher for lid cleaning duties. It sounds lateral enough to be a 'just might work' idea, but. Do you use dishwasher tablets for a shiny clean sparkling fresh finish? Rinse only or a full heavy casserole clean? Or any other methods to remove that smelly sock smell inside my gunwind? Adamx, Devon, UK GSA #1001
Buy a helmet liner. I'd be a bit concerned about using dishwasher detergent on a helmet; that stuff is really powerful. Maybe a tiny bit of low sudsing laundry detergent? Make sure to turn off the heated dry too ;-) Either that or take a shower with it and use shampoo. Mason #631 - 97ST in PA
I run mine through the dishwasher, regular cycle with plain ol' dishwasher soap. No noticeable adverse effects. SScratch '01 Dakar Nashville
My next helmet will have a removable liner. But like yours, my current one doesn't. I clean mine once a year, whether it needs it or not (ha, ha) by putting it in a large plastic storage container full of warm water with some Woolite, and gently working the soapy water into the liner. Then rinse under the faucet, and dry. Works fine for my Shoei RF800. Bob#550 (Olympia WA)
Great suggestions all! But seriously, while I've never used the dishwasher I have washed mine in the tub. That was easiest for me at the time because I had a hand held shower massage which made rinsing easy. I would use a mild soap or liquid laundry soap, shampoo also works well. Wash the liner by hand and rinse well to avoid any irritation to your scalp. Leave the helmet shield up and store it upside down to dry completely so as to avoid mildew. Another tip is to use a product called febreze (here in the US) between or maybe instead of washings. I recommend the unscented variety as I didn't care for the perfume odor left by the scented types. Just spray the entire interior and let dry. I believe it is alcohol based (at least smells like it) dries fairly quickly and works wonders at removing bad odors. Randy, Newnan, GA
Wash it with mild detergent. Use a helmet liner. I also leave a dryer sheet inside the helmet at all times! Don Carnage.
From the below message I would speculate an hour or three each year of UV exposure will not do much damage to the helmet Styrofoam. And any damage that does occur seems to be surficial anyways. " Exposure to direct sunlight for extended periods of time can result in ultra-violet degradation of the surface. Signs of UV degradation are yellowing of the surface, followed by the formation of a thin layer of dust. the dust can inhibit the bonding of mastic coatings and sealants, and it should be removed by thorough brushing before application of such materials." From: http://www.extolohio.com/DATA/SHEETS/styro-pipe-insulation.html. Scott, ID
Do you wash the inside of your shoes? of course not, you wear socks. Wear a balaclava summer or winter and you won't have to wash your helmet either. mtiberio (cugino pegaso).
I almost feel embarrassed to ask this, but does anybody have a method of washing the inside of the helmet without destroying the fabric? The inside of my helmet smells rather un-fresh and I’d like to wash it but experiences from earlier days tell me not to do it, because it didn’t turn out good. Is there a good spray or dry-cleaner on the marked I could use without causing a rash in my face? jerryscuba
I'm going to try Febreeze in my helmet tomorrow. It works great for pet odours, so it should work just as well against helmet head. Kevin -- BB#19, CG#1290, '02 CS Metallic Pumpkin Mississauga, Ontario, Canada.
I think someone in the past has advocated using your dishwasher. Caveat 1. Remove the faceshield first. Caveat 2. DO NOT let it go through the DRY cycle!!! Caveat 3. Wait until another poster that has actually used this method (Flash?) checks in. Marty #436-Chicago-97 F650F
I wash mine in the sink with shampoo and rinse it a lot. A friend of mine did that, and then used fabric softener too, which stunk up his helmet worse than it was before. Larry Colorado
Some helmet liners un-snap and are able to be removed for washing. If yours does I would hand wash it in detergent or Woolite. BBowens
I agree with fabric softeners worsening the odour , I also found that Febreeze gave it a more "peculiar" smell. What works for me is to put a bit of laundry detergent (Tide) inside w/ some water and work it it and around by hand for 10 - 15 minutes , rinse (really good) and repeat. This method worked very well on Arai Quantum E & F. F650GS, blue w/ dark Dakar screen, hand guards, BMW engine protection bars, W Canada. PNR123
If you want to purchase something there are products made for this. Whether they are any better than the other methods suggested I can't say. I am unwilling to put my helmet in the dishwasher. :-) The one I use is a spray on foam product I got at a local cycle accessory shop called Helmet Care from Motorex (Swiss made). It is about $6 and works well for me. I use it after my off road trips when the liner gets pretty nasty from sweat and dust. I see that Two Brothers carries it. Brad, N. CA., 2001 F650GS - Inmate #1002 --- Check the FAQs --- bg's stuff - protect your F650
Wash it in the DishWasher. Take out the top rack if you can. Put in some dishwashing detergent and wash it just like you would your dishes. Then take it out before the dry cycle, and leave the Helmet in its normal upright position (so the water will drip out the bottom). It will take about 1-day to dry thoroughly. I've done this lots of times and it leaves my helmet nice and clean and fresh. Works Great. Lake Tahoe, Nevada. Dick#420
Forget cleaning your helmet. Just wait until the new models come out and buy last year's discontinued model on sale. Last year I bought a $350 retail helmet for $99. Richard #230
I tried the dishwasher idea Sunday night. It worked great. I even left the faceshield on and it wasn't that clean since it was new. I can switch the electrical heater off on my dishwasher so I didn't have to worry about drying or overheating the Styrofoam. I used laundry detergent instead of the dishwashing one. I figured it would be a little better for the fabric. Drying was a little bit of a pain. I had it sitting for a day without significant change in dryness. Now I have a hairblower on low heat blowing it dry, since I need the helmet today to go to my driving test ;-) Take care. jerryscuba
I took mine in the shower with me and shampooed it, this worked great. I dried mine by setting it on its side next to my hepa filter which blows air constantly and it dried overnight. MasterITRIT #F650-1231 -- '98 F650 Classic -- '80 Yamaha XT250 -- Rochester, NY.
I never had a problem with fuel. But, I won't let that stop me from handing out advice! Put it in the dishwasher. Use just a little powdered, preferably unscented, laundry detergent, or a very small amount of woolite. No heated dry. If you have a choice of water temperature, use something fairly cool. Really. I've done it. Makes your helmet all fresh again. I wouldn't recommend doing it on a regular basis, and I would probably hesitate if it was a brand new $400 helmet. Oh yeah - if you have any speakers in your helmet, take them out first. Bryan. Bryan #179 (NM).
The Classic comes with a bit of rubber-shrouded wire with a loop at each end, that you loop through the Helmet and under the seat to a little welded Hook. Pretty Cheesy. The GS/Dakar doesn't have one at all. Very Cheesy. So here are some alternatives:
Night
Wolf Howls Industries. They manufacture the LeatherLock - security cables
for motorcycle jackets and helmets. The helmet cable is especially useful
for owners of the F650GS as there is no place to lock your helmet, like on
conventional bikes. (Read classic F, hehe)
http://www.leatherlock.com
1) Weight is under 10ozs or 0.3kgs
2) Size is small enough to fit in a standard CD Mailer padded envelope
3) Value is $35.00 for 1 Jacket Cable, 1 Helmet Cable and 1 Combination Lock
Night Wolf Howls Industries has this to say about their products:
"The LeatherLock Jacket cable is 6ft long and LeatherLock Helmet cable is
22in long. These LeatherLock Cables are our
Standard Cable. Our Standard Cables are 19 strands of Steel braided and
encased in plastic to protect your motorcycle finish. These cables have a
breaking strength of 1700lbs. Please note the Locks, however, can scratch
your motorcycle so be careful during usage. Also remember the LeatherLock
Cables must be removed before riding away on your motorcycle. Night Wolf
Howls Industries will not be held Liable for misuse of our products.
Note to Chain Gang members; Night Wolf Howls Industries has agreed to Donate
$1.00 from the sale of any of their products to Chain Gang members.
Donations will go to the Chain Gang Charity Fund. Be Sure to mention it!
Night Wolf Howls Industries also carries Deluxe and Ultimate versions of our
LeatherLock cables. LeatherLock Deluxe cables have 5 steel braids, with each
braid containing 7 strands of Steel wire encased in plastic. Breaking
strength of over 3500 lbs. The LeatherLock Ultimate cables have 7 steel
braids, with each braid containing 19 strands of steel wire encased in
plastic. Breaking strength? We don't know!! We also carry a very good
Motorcycle First Aid Kit. Please note some items are not listed on the
website yet and some product descriptions are incomplete.
Combination lock is factory set to 000 and testers should reset lock to 000,
before shipping to next tester. Testers should also save instructions, for
setting combination lock, to pass on to next tester. Thanks, Craig
Hennessey. Thomas #849.
There are aftermarket locks available. One style screws into your license plate bracket. Others will attach somewhere on the frame or other sturdy area of the bike. This issue was one that made me think awhile when I bought my '03. I have a top box on my bike, so usually that takes care of things, but when I've gone on a longer ride and have my rain suit and some other items in there, I'm stuck. What I've done, is to use a 3' locking cable (available all over) and thread it through the hand holds on the seat, and then through my helmet. I also thread it through the loops and zipper pulls of my helmet bag and fasten that too, if I'm going to be gone longer than a few minutes. 2003 GSA, Pittsburgh, PA.
J.C. Whitney sells these...probably can be ordered through any motorcycle shop. I made a LONG (6 feet plus) cable from vinyl coated aircraft cable, making loops on each end (then vinyl coating them with that tool handle coating stuff). With these two, you can run the cable through your jacket arm, pant leg, helmet, and tankbag...then lock the loops to the handlebar. It'll suffice for keeping honest people honest...most of these solutions will not survive a serious (BFH) attack! Marty #436-Chicago-97 F650F
My wife and I generally ride two up. We can fit one helmet in the top case but we were always left carrying the other one around. Then on guy said to use a gun lock. You can pick them up at any sporting goods shop for about 7 bucks. It is a lock with a 6 or 8 inch cable and you can lock your helmet to the handles by the back of the seat. It can even fit two helmets if you are crafty! facito, 2001 F650GSA, Las Vegas, Nevada.
My nifty little high-tech 22 year old Yamaha came standard with a helmet lock on the right side, and a cable lock that stuffs nicely into its own compartment on the left side. It also has self-cancelling turn signals. I love rubbing BMW's face in that one. HOWEVER, leaving my helmet locked onto the bike one day, I came out of the store to find that someone cut the D-rings off of the helmet and stole it anyway. A lot of good a helmet without straps is going to do him. Actually the cable is for locking the rear wheel to the drive shaft so it won't roll. It also has the steering lock in the ignition. The helmet lock is a U-shaped metal bar, hinged at one end, that is only big enough to go through a D-ring. If you have the latch-type strap connectors, it wouldn't work at all. SScratch '01 Dakar -- Nashville.
I came out of the store to find that someone cut the D-rings off of the helmet and stole it anyway. A lot of good a helmet without straps is going to do him. That's why I put the cable around the chinbar when I use that thing. Flash 412 (CO)
I believe it was me who suggested the firearms lock. I set my helmet into the cockpit (perfect fit), then run the cable lock through the chinbar and around the crossbar on the handlebar. I also slip it through the zippers on my tankbag, I know it's not much to cut those little straps off but it'll slow someone down for a couple seconds or maybe at least deter curious kids. The beauty of the cable lock is that it's very thin so that I can almost completely close the visor and keep any rain out. If you want something a bit sturdier, just get a bicycle chain or something similar. Either way it's a very inexpensive option to securing the helmet. If someone REALLY wants to rip it off, it won't do a whole lot of good; but like I said, it's better than nothing and it definitely keeps the helmet from getting knocked off the bike and bouncing down the street. Brand of cable lock doesn't matter, I used whatever I had around from rifles (they're in a safe). Any Longs Drugs (they usually carry all kinds of firearms stuff) or Wal-Mart should have cable locks. '03 black GS, Colorado Razz
I got the new Aerostich catalog the other day. They are now offering replacement bar-end weights that include a helmet lock. Seems like a pretty good idea and something I'm going to investigate further. F650CS, Kansas City. interp
Customizing it to make it fit your odd-shaped Head
The wife and I (yup married now- and I must confess this is the first time I have been back to F650 land since before the big day- Hope the Northeast Rally was big fun- I'll dig up some feed back in a sec.) both have issues with our helmets putting too much pressure on our foreheads right at the hairline. After an hour of riding it creates a very uncomfortable hotspot- and she is more bothered by it then I. (i.e. I can live with it, but if she is going to spend more time as pillion then 'we' need a fix). I am curious about compressing the closed-cell foam in this area to allow for our oversized craniums. I thought I'd heard someone tell me once to carefully whack the area with rubber mallet. Or using a spoon to press on the foam to compress it. Any one have any better ideas before I spend too much time getting nowhere? Many of you suggested a new helmet. Well, this is a brand new helmet. However, when purchasing it she would have had to wear each one around the shop for an hour before the hot spot appeared. That would have taken awhile. Is there away to predict this during the try on? Lee#1106, CT
I have always had exactly the same problem -- getting sore at the hairline on the forehead. I have tried the compressing-the-foam strategy with mixed success. I use the rounded handle end of a BIG screwdriver. This gives me a good thing to grip and allows me to bear down on it more than you could with a spoon. I have a Nolan sitting on the shelf that I never could get to be acceptably comfortable. I switched to HJC and have been able to create a fit that is at least tolerable. But just last week I tried on an Arai Quantum f -- the heavens parted, the sun came out, and the angels sang: Helmets don't HAVE to hurt! Then my credit card came out, and this horribly expensive lid came home with me. If you aren't ready to shell out four bills on the spot, DO NOT try this helmet on. Forgot to add: If you are getting sore at the hairline, you really should do something about it. If you neglect it like I did, your hairline will develop avoidance tactics over time and start moving back on your head to get away from this pressure point. This HAS to be caused by the helmet. After all -- I'm not getting old. Are you? ;-) DakotaDakar
Minor hot spots can be "adjusted" by slightly compressing the Styrofoam within the shell an appropriate amount by using a spoon, screwdriver handle, or other blunt object to crush it a bit. Just remember that it is non-reversible process, and the compressions that you make are reducing crash protection by some (likely small) amount. Marty #436-Chicago-97 F650F.
I had the same problem, I thought the Shoei was nice until tried on the Aria. You should really try on an Aria. I know this will cost more money, but comfort is worth it. Aria Quantum f is for those with rounder heads while the Signet is for those with longer shaped heads. Try both models. The reason Aria's are more comfortable is that they use more padding on top of there core foam.
Wouldn't a Helmet HUD be Cool?
Davidhpark, #711
That's why if these things do come to market retinal projection will be how they do it. No need to worry about screens or focal lengths. The images are projected directly on to the retinal cortex. See NY Times (register to read) http://www.nytimes.com/2001/04/26/technology/26HOWW.html
A Navy document on the technology: http://www.cs.nps.navy.mil/people/faculty/capps/4473/projects/fiambolis/vrd/vrd_full.html
The company that is the leading commercial developer of retinal HUD/screen stuff (having come from U Wash since the early '90s) Microvision' http://www.mvis.com/home.htm
Tip for protecting auxiliary helmet shield: If you are traveling overseas with Cathay Pacific Airlines, be sure to take home one of their complimentary toiletry kits. Inside there is a pair of cotton socks which are stretchy enough to completely contain and protect one helmet shield. Jason - Dallas
I have used a large black sock for years and attached an adjustable 3/4" strap running from one end to the other. I ride mostly during the day and use a dark tinted shield but when I know I may get home after dark I carry my clear shield with me. With my set up, i wear my spare shield with the strap over my left shoulder and the shield under my right arm curved around my torso (under my jacket) much like a courier bag. your torso may be larger than mine but it is very comfortable for me and I forget it is there. I believe there is a product on the market made for this purpose now, but mine cost nothing (already had a large cotton sock and a strap lying about) and took just a few minutes to make. this way I can have the best of both worlds and it is an easy way to carry my extra shield without damage. Randy, Newnan, GA
Sometime ago there was a discussion about this visor on this site--- Having read about it elsewhere, I had sent my money to Scottsdale AZ and received one--after checking out how it attaches to the visor and the narrow field of view it leaves, I decided not to install it and put it away with various other pieces of after-market stuff I've collected over time---some people might like it but it will make it difficult to raise your visor and it does narrow the field of view. I agree with others who discussed this item when it appeared sometime back---a consensus of those making comments was that a piece of duct tape or electricians tape will do better and at little or no cost. Bill No.391 Las Vegas
Electrical tape is age old fix here! Put it where you want it and if you get it wrong, start over with another piece. Cheap. You can get coloured electrical tape, too, if you're into colours! I use a couple strips across my helmet shield and find it perfect. I'm not sure why anyone would waste money on anything else. Randy748/Calif.
Photogray: I purchased and installed a Progrip #3000LS Light Sensitive Face Shield film on the back of my Shoei RF-800 helmet’s face shield.[Early 2002, ed.] When my Yamaha dealer refused to order it because it wasn't in his Rocky or Hap Jones catalog, I visited my BMW dealer and not only did they order it, but it arrived within a week. This is a film that is very similar to the FogCity shield, but darkens when placed in sunlight. It has a thick, black, gasket along the edges that is visible but not too noticeable when riding. One size fits all. It works fine as an anti-fog device, however it does give you the same double reflection as the FogCity film when riding at night. Since I had been riding in mid-30 degree F weather this winter, I can live with the reflection as long as my shield doesn't fog up and I can keep it closed to keep my face from freezing. Unfortunately, the left side of the sealing gasket stuck to my Shoei helmet pivot area and when I tried to pop the shield up it started to come loose from the shield at this location. Then the first time I rode in a cold rain the entire film just fell off the shield. I bought and installed 2 of the films and both came unstuck from the face shield on two different helmets upon riding in the rain. Regarding the light-sensitive feature. It works very well when the film is placed in the sun. It turns a medium-dark purple within a few seconds and back to clear just as fast, when taken out of the sun. Unfortunately, most premium face shields are UV resistant and ultraviolet light is what makes the film darken. So you place the film on the inside of the face shield and it gets very little UV light and therefore only slightly darkens. I rode home from work into the setting sun and the film did not darken enough to be noticeable. Perhaps it would work fine on a cheap shield that let lots of UV through, but cheap shields usually come with cheap helmets and most of us avoid those things. I have to conclude that using a FogCity shield for cold weather riding and sunglasses if needed, should you ride both at night and during the day with the same face shield, is the way to go. The Progrip #3000LS retails for $20 USD, about $5 more than the FogCity shield. Unfortunately, I cannot recommend its purchase. As an additional comment: I understand that FogCity made a similar insert and it works even worse than the Progrip film, based upon a magazine review I read about a year ago. Apparently the technology is not quite ready for prime time. Richard #230, Pacifica, CA
I agree with Richard's assessment, with the following minor differences... I bought the Progrip shield because I had just bought the dealer's last FogCity (for my wife's helmet). It was a couple of bucks cheaper at this dealer, as I recall. I installed it properly (no issues with sticking in the wrong place), and the first time I washed it (under a stream of water in the sink), there was some water in between the two layers (which eventually went away). Not sure what would happen in the rain. When new, the liner would turn a rose colour in the bright sun (just a little UV getting through the Schuberth shield?), about a year later, it hardly turns at all. I think Richard said it all...FogCity and sunglasses, when needed. The technology needs a little more work. (P.S. "photogray" only works (but very well) on GLASS. This is different technology, which works poorly on my plastic eyeglasses as well.) Marty #436
I wear glasses anyway, and find the clip-on sunglasses unwieldy under a helmet. I had the Helmet Sunblocker installed by the vendor at the BMWMOA Rally in Charleston. So far, (6500km or about 4000 miles) there have been no issues with it falling off. Rain, albeit not torrential, hasn't affected it. The protection against the sun's glare is outstanding. I don't know how I managed without it. Its advantage over electrical tape is that it doesn't block your vision; objects are slightly blurry, but quite visible. Until it falls off, it has my enthusiastic endorsement. mspeed #1023
Helmet Odd 'n Ends
The carbon fibre version of BMW System 4 Evo is called System 4 Elite. The Evo weighs 1750g and Elite is said to be 200g lighter which still doesn't make it very light compared to most other helmets. The only other difference between the two is that the Elite interior is made of Schoeller ComforTemp, a temperature regulating material similar to Outlast. Both Evo and Elite are quiet, have good ventilation and a removable lining for easy washing. The worst part about the Elite is that it costs €833 compared to €359 for the Evo. Pelle, Sweden, '02 GSDA
Lighter Helmet Needed? The muscular/postural problems are not from the weight of the helmet, they are from the strain of holding your head forward against the pressure of the wind. Get a higher windshield. You are probably not having migraines. They are usually caused by metabolic disturbances from hormones or food sensitivities (*not* allergies). Try cutting out caffeine, chocolate, aged cheese, red wine, and dark brown whiskey. I did, worked great, headaches stopped. Of course those were my favorite things and life wasn't worth living, so now I trade an occasional headache for certain indulgences. Also, the drug Imetrex (and others related) are specific to migraines. It works very well, but only against true migraines. (It costs US$20 per pill, but worth every penny!). YMMV. Claude #312, Annapolis, Md
RAIN SOLUTIONS: GOOD VISION2. Use Rain-X. Rain-X doesn't damage face shields. RUBBING them too hard with a paper towel damages them. Use CLOTH on your face shield, ALWAYS. I used Rain-X on the same (Shoei) shield for five years without any problems. Flash.