The low beam on a CS is an H3. It's easy to change. No windscreen removal required. You change it from below the instrument cluster. Remove the rubber cap. Unplug the bulb. There is a wire clip that holds the bulb in the housing so undo that. Insert new bulb in reverse of removal. Should be 5 minutes max. Maybe 6 if you have trouble with the clip. -R4ND0M_AX3
If I buy it myself, what's it cost: My guess would be that the Headlight assembly (631 276 591 59) would currently (18 Nov 2003) cost about $267.44 not counting tax, etc. etc.
Low Beam chipping away:
To Fix: If it is chipped around the rim, tell your dealer you'd like it replaced in/or out of warrantee.
If he doesn't, jump up and down and scream. -Harmon
Chips around edge: DesertRider posted today that prior to the sale of his CS he noticed that the low beam lens had chipped three times on the edges. My low beam lens has one chip so far. I discovered that while trying to figure out a way to make that headlights’ unit make less rattling noise. I disassembled as much of the unit as one could, found out that all the screws inside the unit were loose and that one had come off.
My mechanic has ordered a new unit for me, under warranty. But it’s been coming from Germany for the last month or so… I suspect that this is a part that has been manufactured by a sloppy sub-contractor. I[t] probably says so on the unit. When I get the new one, I'll see if it's possible to add something similar to lock-tight on the screws even though the unit is all plastic...
Have a close look at your headlights’ unit while it is still under warranty. -busker
Repairing oneself: I'd think carefully about that. I don't consider myself particularly expert on bike mechanicals, but I do know about lenses and lens mountings (graduate word in astronomy, much of it in optics). Edge chipping occurs when the lens is free to move around an strikes a hard point in its mount -- a big no-no. To survive unscathed lenses have to be supported with even pressure all around the circumference, but without applying compression to the glass, which means that tightening down the screws may not be a good idea. If the BMW lens mount bears on the lens at only a few points or if it allows the lens to move around it will eventually chip or crack the lens. (I didn't take mine apart because I only noticed the problem when I was putting the bike up for consignment.)
An easy way to mount a lens is to encircle it in a U- or V-channel lined with a cushion layer that provides even pressure all around the lens. Thin, hard foam works as the cushion material, but it tends to deteriorate, particulary under heat. A better option is to use a couple of layers of black vinyl electrical tape. Vinyl tape does not dry out, harden, or break down under moderate heat, provides adequate cushion, is easily applied, and is easy to get. You can apply the tape layers onto the lens mount, but it's often easier to apply it to the lens edge itself, making sure you trim the tape so it comes between the lens and the mount at every point, but not intruding into the aperture of the lens (the part the light has to shine through), or at least not much. You can leave a tiny edge of tape visible around the edge of the lens aperture if that's what it takes to make sure the lens is fully cushioned from the mount.
If the BMW lens mount does not allow even contact all around the circumference of the lens (i.e., if the mount touches the lens at only a few points) I'd (1) slap around the nincompoop who designed such a crummy lens mount, and (2) consider putting double-sided foam tape between the lens and mount at all the contact points -- it's about the best you can do. The problems with that mounting method is that having only a few contact points is always bad, but it may be all that BMW gave us. If they did then the double-sided sticky foam tape can work, but you may find there's not enough room for it, and you'd find that it breaks down over time, so has to be replaced every year or so. Foam tape can also out-gas, which can cause slight fogging of the optics, but we're not exactly talking about Hubble-grade optics here, so that won't matter much.
One other mounting method that does work well but which I'm hesitant to recommend is clear RTV silicon sealant. It works well -- holds the optics well, cushions well, holds up well. But it runs while setting and is very permanent, so you may find that (1) at the bottom it runs into the lens mount and permanently glues everything together, and (2) at the top it runs down onto the lens face. In astronomical applications RTV sealant is very commonly used to mount first-surface reflective optics (front-reflective mirrors) because you can apply the RTV sealant to the back of the mirror, where it doesn't matter what it does or looks like. But I'd be very careful about applying it on or around a lens. If you think about using RTV sealant consider removing the entire headlight assembly so you can point it upward, keeping the lens flat (horizontal) while the RTV is setting. RTV *definitely* outgasses, so maintain good air circulation while it's setting.
I now really wish I'd taken apart my headlight assembly so I'd seen how the lens is mounted in there. But I didn't, so all I can offer is the suggestions above. I hope it helps.
One other thought: If you do have a chipped lens it should *definitely* be covered under warranty.
OK, one more thought: BMW has shown they can be extremely customer-unfriendly in regards to warranty coverage, so I hereby disclaim any knowledge about wh [lost in change to new forum] -DesertRider
Remove instrument surround ( 4 screws ) (silver-grey plastic over top of instruments)
comes off toward rear of bike.
Remove 3 jesus clips holding instrument support posts in. (Make sure you don't drop these into the body panels ... don't ask)
Now you should be able to slide instrument panel out enough (towards back of bike) to get at rubber grommets of light(s) you want to change (shouldn't need to disconnect wiring harness plug since you're not pulling the instrument panel out of the bike).
Pull out the rubber grommet of the light you want to change and the light will be in it.
Instrument panel warning and illumination bulbs all appear to be same type bulb listed in Repair Manual Technical Data as W 5/1.2 - 12 V 1.2 W
Here's where my knowledge gets a little sketchy as to what the exactly correct bulb to use is; however, what i used ... was
GE 12V 37 37/BP2
package bar code: 43168 26480
2 bulbs for $1.97 in blister pack at Wal-Mart
After swapping out lights you can verify it lights before plugging everything back (turn off before plugging everything back)
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Looking at the instrument panel from the back, the high beam indicator light is the topmost one to the left of center (right of top center post and left of screw).
When you go to replace your inst. bulbs, before you remove the two 'C' clips,notice that the wires are pressed hard against the mounting bracket. To eliminate future trouble, while you have the inst. cluster off, wrap a few turns of 2" plastic tape around the center part of the mounting bracket.-Dailyrider
If you notice that your rear taillight seems to be hopping up and down
when your bike is running, it probably is.
If you grab it and can move it so it flops up and down on one side, then one
of the tabs that stick out (probably the RHS one)
of the side of the housing is broken.
Unfortunately, there's no separate part number for the housing so (your dealer)
will have to order and replace the whole assembly [pn 63212306803]
which they SHOULD do as a "warrantee" item (in or out of warrantee)
if they don't, ask nicely
if they still don't, jump up and down and scream,
if they still don't, find another dealer.
or, you can fix it yourself by duct-taping the tab to the housing.
That will make a better part than the original because there will be
some flex between the tab and the housing ( instead of having two rigid tabs
attached to a flexing sub-frame).
Have you had the plastic tail light mount crack on your CS? If you waggle it a bit it will be loose. Was it the right hand side where it's bolted to the frame-Mr. Precision
Well what do you know. I had noticed when washing my bike that the tail light seemed like it moved around quite a bit. I just pulled the seat and looked and the tab on the right side is broken. -Tom McCallum
I have exactly the same problem with the tail light. The crack was at the RHS -BP316
This happened to me quite a while ago, I believe after carrying a few people pillion. Took it into Bath Road to get it replaced under warranty (seeing as I hadn't touched it or strapped anything close to it I figure this was a manufacturing fault)... only to be told that it wasn't a "vibration-induced fault" and "looked like it had been forced", so couldn't be done under warranty. Wasn't impressed. It's just a shame this thread hadn't appeared at the time!
And, FWIW, it *was* the RHS mount that snapped, too.-chamelespoon